PDA

View Full Version : Drz400 Stock Suspension Set Up Tips


EDGELL
17-08-2007, 02:14 PM
Drz400 Suspension Feedback
Quote:
Originally Posted by hards http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?p=271731#post271731)
Hi Terry,

Thanks for your expert opinion here..

After wading through many posts on setup for DRZ400's I'm left a little flat as from what I can tell the best option is to spend another $500 plus to get the DRZ up to scratch in terms of spenders. While this might be an option sometime in the future , for the moment it's not. I'm fairly sure I'm not the only one in this boat.

With this in mind Terry, an approximate guide for the stock DRZ setup in terms of rider weight might be a very useful starting point for us novices.

For example your post/reply On 85kg rider 95mm Sag stock suspension.



Would be nice to see the same for a 75kg thru to 110kg rider in say 5kg increments, with rider sag set to 90-95mm (http://www.racetech.com/SubMenu.asp?cMenu=4&c=Yes&cSubMenu=11&showPage=dirt#3)? I'll even save you some time...

75kg with gear
"Set your H/S at turns out. L/S at out and rebound at out. Set fork rebound at clicks out. Comp out."

80kg with gear
"Set your H/S at turns out. L/S at out and rebound at out. Set fork rebound at clicks out. Comp out."

85kg (without)
"Set your H/S at 2 turns out. L/S at 12 out and rebound at 12 out. Sag sounds fine. Set fork rebound at 20 clicks out. Comp 14 out."

90kg with gear
"Set your H/S at turns out. L/S at out and rebound at out. Set fork rebound at clicks out. Comp out."

95kg with gear
"Set your H/S at turns out. L/S at out and rebound at out. Set fork rebound at clicks out. Comp out."

100kg with gear
"Set your H/S at turns out. L/S at out and rebound at out. Set fork rebound at clicks out. Comp out."

110kg with gear
"Set your H/S at turns out. L/S at out and rebound at out. Set fork rebound at clicks out. Comp out."

I also realise that On 110kg rider, stock suspension, you have stated.



But it is also reality that some of us that have purchased these bikes just want to get the best out of the stock setup ( as crap as it may be) without applying endless mod$.

Is this possible Terry, I'm sure there would be many grateful for your time.

----END QUOTE----

Hope this helps someone. I have a standard KLX400 (aka DRZ400). The suspension used to feel wooden and unresponsive. Turns out I had way too much rebound dialed on.
I am an intermediate skilled rider and weigh 88 kilos without riding gear. I set my stock suspension up for an 85 kilo rider as described above and here is what I found:

I found the rebound was too quick at 20 clicks and it made the front end feel too nervous. I changed it to 15 clicks out and it cured that problem. Apart from that small change it was the best the bike has ever felt on the single and twin tracks we usually do (real trail riding).

I concede it would be a bit soft for fast guys or even for me on more open tracks at higher speed where there are erozion mounds to jump. So it depends on the terain you ride. It is beautiful on the choppy rutted stuff (1st, 2nd, 3rd gear type tracks) and really gets the power to the ground. It is very responsive to the terain and I love the plushness as I can ride it all day without getting tired or beaten up. I love it. !psm
__________________
Peter
Current Ride: 'Bush Fairlane' aka KLX400 with B&B Bashplate, B&B Muffler Insert & Barkbusters

Previous Mounts: KLX300, PE175 (2 smoker), XL175, XR75

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/images/statusicon/post_old.gif 5 Minutes Ago


EDGELL (http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/member.php?u=4341) http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/images/statusicon/user_online.gif



Drz400 Steering Improvement


P.S. Forgot to mention a while ago I slid my fork legs up through the triple clamps just shy of 10mm (forget exactly, maybe 6-8mm) and wound the rear spring up to the max preload setting allowed to get close to the correct static sag and rider sag (at 88kgs I am probably a 'pushing the envelope' with the standard rear spring and the front for that matter). The bike now steers much better (no longer pushes really wide when cornering) and I have not experienced head shake. The bike is as good as I can get it whilst maintain the standard suspension. I can't afford spending $$$ on the suspension. Anyway its probably cheaper and better for me to loose some weight!![/quote]
__________________

hards
17-08-2007, 03:23 PM
[LEFT]P.S. Forgot to mention a while ago I slid my fork legs up through the triple clamps just shy of 10mm (forget exactly, maybe 6-8mm) and wound the rear spring up to the max preload setting allowed to get close to the correct static sag and rider sag (at 88kgs I am probably a 'pushing the envelope' with the standard rear spring and the front for that matter). The bike now steers much better (no longer pushes really wide when cornering) and I have not experienced head shake. The bike is as good as I can get it whilst maintain the standard suspension. I can't afford spending $$$ on the suspension. Anyway its probably cheaper and better for me to loose some weight!!

Mate, since that post I have done all of the above too plus the fork springs and oil.

Setting up the sag changed the cornering dynamics a lot and I was pleased with the cornering changes, big hits were still a problem though. The right fork springs have made a huge difference and like many others I highly recommend getting the correct ones. Dont be afraid to change them yourself, not a difficult job, a bit fiddly in parts. Revalving is a different matter.

07400E
17-08-2007, 05:39 PM
What rate springs did you use Hards ? Did you only change fork springs or the shock as well ? I had a look on the racetech site and for me at 90 kg the shock spring is only about 2 % to soft for my weight but the fork springs are 10 % too soft. I was thinking of putting in some 0.48 fork springs and trying them with the standard valving for starters. You mention adding some more oil did you find you were still bottoming out too often with the heavier springs ?
I have heard numerous times about a lengthening of the rear shock - anyone have any experience with what this actually is ? My guess is that its just a spacer on the end of the shock shaft to increase the overall length of the shock assy a bit - anyone able to confirm this or the thickness of the spacer for that matter would be good.

Cheers

cliveybaby
17-08-2007, 05:48 PM
"...for the moment it's not. I'm fairly sure I'm not the only one in this boat."


Boat is spot on. Plush as the DR's are stock they are a worry when entering or exiting whoops. Like they do not come out clean and force you to have lower control when you ride them hard.

I checked out a couple of other riders stock bikes and a susp tuned one before I bought a properley tricked up une myself. The difference is huge.

i would recommend setting it up as hard as possible till you get the $ to do it over proper. The rear susp is usually about 35mm sag plus another 60 or so mm with a rider seated properley.

Enjoy.!

hards
17-08-2007, 06:49 PM
What rate springs did you use Hards ? Did you only change fork springs or the shock as well ?

. You mention adding some more oil did you find you were still bottoming out too often with the heavier springs ?


.48 kg/mm Eibach from Ballards $169 + freight, replaced the fork oil 5w to stock height as advised on dbw ( 720ml per leg or 110 mm height ) probably should have gone 7.5w, next time, Didnt do the shock..yet, revalve will come first.

Havent felt like bottoming out and waaay more stable through whoops, dont get knocked off line and feel lots more confident.

jahendo
12-09-2007, 06:04 AM
hey can anyone post the stock settings for drz suspension or do i just wind all adjusters right in and start from there also i am guessing the fork adjustment is rebound on the bottom and comp on the top of fork. as u can tell havnt had much to do with bikes 4 long time and have never stuffed around with suspension am fairly mechanical minded so any info on SAG set up would be great

EDGELL
12-09-2007, 10:00 AM
...i am guessing the fork adjustment is rebound on the bottom and comp on the top of fork...

Rebound is on top of the fork, compression is on the bottom.
How much do you weigh? I weigh 88 kgs and I needed to pre-load the rear spring to the maximum allowed in the manual to get the correct riders sag. This helps the bike steer better. Hope this helps.

WikdBeemer
12-09-2007, 11:47 AM
Guys, below is a link to Racetech's website, a susp page for the 03 DRZ400E.
Click the spring calculators for the front and rear but remember they use rider only weight, not wearing gear so you need to get nude first :laughing-

Chris Flatery at Southlakes Motorcycles Morriset upgraded mine with the same Racetech springs (reputed to be the best springs available) as the calculator came up with and he does his own calcs. so I guess this means the online calculator is pretty acurate.

Your rear shock needs to be done by experienced person only as it can be very dangerous with the high pressure gas inside.

http://www.racetech.com/evalving/english/Srchpr.asp?bikeid=1124&manufacture=Suzuki&model=DR%2DZ400E&year=2003&TABLEINFO=dirt&langname=english

jahendo
13-09-2007, 05:20 AM
thanx helps a lot seeing i had every thing upside down. I am just on 90 kgs so definitly gonna do some work on the suspension have an 04 drz 400. I havnt got a manual 4 mine so not sure where 2 start but guessing (again) wind clickers all the way in then start winding out for the forks. With the back pre load on the rear spring i can understand still bit confused what the clickers do. Might have to purchase a manual do you know best place to get one

WikdBeemer
14-09-2007, 06:59 AM
thanx helps a lot seeing i had every thing upside down. I am just on 90 kgs so definitly gonna do some work on the suspension have an 04 drz 400. I havnt got a manual 4 mine so not sure where 2 start but guessing (again) wind clickers all the way in then start winding out for the forks. With the back pre load on the rear spring i can understand still bit confused what the clickers do. Might have to purchase a manual do you know best place to get one

Factory settings for 04 & 05 models:
Turn clickers all way in until seated first, then...
Fork comp. 12 clicks out (at bottom of fork)
rebound 15 clicks out (top of fork)
Rear rebound 13 clicks out (at botom of shock)
Comp HS 1.25 turns out (hex head)
LS 10 clicks out (slot head)
This is from the Suzuki service manual which is available through dealers in book and CD format.

EDGELL
14-09-2007, 11:12 AM
Wikddrz400,
The manual also gives information on the maximum rear spring preload (reduction in the length of the spring by tightening the pre-load nut). I can't remember what it is. Do you have that information?

WikdBeemer
14-09-2007, 10:00 PM
Wikddrz400,
The manual also gives information on the maximum rear spring preload (reduction in the length of the spring by tightening the pre-load nut). I can't remember what it is. Do you have that information?
Yes.
Although the shock was modified for the 02 model, the specs. are the same in the spring setting tables for all E models.

Spring Preset Length
Standard Softest Stiffest
258.0MM 259.5MM 247.5MM

With a caution not to set it any less than 247.5MM

EDGELL
17-09-2007, 09:40 AM
Yes.
Although the shock was modified for the 02 model, the specs. are the same in the spring setting tables for all E models.

Spring Preset Length
Standard Softest Stiffest
258.0MM 259.5MM 247.5MM

With a caution not to set it any less than 247.5MM

Thanks very much mate.:cheers

jahendo
18-09-2007, 05:43 AM
yea thanks man this helps a lot. still a bit confused on riders sag should this be set before these settings or is that what i am doing when setting them

EDGELL
18-09-2007, 10:31 AM
yea thanks man this helps a lot. still a bit confused on riders sag should this be set before these settings or is that what i am doing when setting them

This should set you straight. You can do it before or after. Spring sag setting is separate from compression and rebound settings.
http://www.4strokes.com/tech/racesag.asp

WikdBeemer
18-09-2007, 05:12 PM
This should set you straight. You can do it before or after. Spring sag setting is separate from compression and rebound settings.
http://www.4strokes.com/tech/racesag.asp
Yes but test the damping settings in 3 click stages until you get close, you probably wont notice 1 click.
Also start with freshly serviced forks and shock because as the oil gets old it gets thicker and thicker and has a quite profound effect on the dampening.

jahendo
25-09-2007, 11:46 AM
is the fork oil hard to change yourself. Thinkin u just drain it and top it up wif new stuff think the measurments in mls and weights were in another post in this thread.not sure about shock what involved in service

Pines06
06-10-2007, 02:19 AM
I have an "06 DRZ400E and when the bike was new the suspension settings were all over the place(the left fork didn't even match the right fork). At the time I had no experience in setting up suspension but after doing some research and experimenting on the bike I am now running the following settings.
Fork rebound 12 clicks out
Fork compression 1 click out
Rear low speed compression 10 clicks out
Rear high speed compression 1 turn out
Rear rebound 8 clicks out
Race sag 95mm
Static sag 35mm

I weigh 72kg(without gear). All suspension is stock.
I found that when experimenting it's a lot easier to tell when you've got the suspension wrong than when you've got it right. At one stage I had the static sag at 20mm and with the standard spring and my weight the bike was aweful to ride. I also found that softening up the compression on the fork made me lose all confidence in the front end.

twitchy
06-10-2007, 07:32 AM
I weigh 72kg(without gear). All suspension is stock.


You are about the right weight for the original suspension, one of the lucky ones....lol
I spent some neddies & put in new springs & revalved the forks. The rear has just been revalved but still needs a spring.