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Pigdog
21-06-2010, 07:48 PM
I am getting a CRF 230 (L I think, the non ADR one) tomorrow, and was wondering if any one has any useful mods for the bike.

I will put bigger springs and heavier fork oil in, remove the air box lid and exhaust baffle.........any more you can recommend?

dirt girlie
21-06-2010, 08:18 PM
I am getting a CRF 230 (L I think, the non ADR one) tomorrow, and was wondering if any one has any useful mods for the bike.

I will put bigger springs and heavier fork oil in, remove the air box lid and exhaust baffle.........any more you can recommend?

I had heavier springs put in the forks and re-valved (standard fork oil), and the rear shock modified so it could be rebuilt. Baffle removed too.

Just the suspension done alone is the best mod!! Bike felt 110% better!!

Pigdog
21-06-2010, 08:22 PM
What did they do to the shock Miranda? I read they can't be moded, but there is an after market one you can buy.

dirt girlie
21-06-2010, 08:26 PM
What did they do to the shock Miranda? I read they can't be moded, but there is an after market one you can buy.

Just basically put in a valve so you can re-gas it. Keg got someone to do it for me.

A shock out of an older XR650 will fit straight in the 230's...apparently...as they don't have the gas cylinder on the side.

Dennis
22-06-2010, 12:13 AM
L would be the ADR model, F would be the off road model I think.

Remove exhaust baffle (or better still fit a decent pipe).

Remove intake restrictor from airbox.

Then you can fit one of the best mods is straight from your local Honda dealer, buy these for the carby:

- part number 16012-KPS-921, CRF230F Full Power Needle (run on the middle clip as a start point)

- part number 99113-GHB-1320, #132 Main Jet

Only draw back with fitting these is that the bike will need longer to warm up with the choke before it will run crisp, but well worth that slight inconvenience.

Stay completely away from this web site - Products (http://www.bbrmotorsports.com/Products/MakeModelQuery.aspx?Make=Honda&Model=CRF230F) or this page from it as well Bike (http://www.bbrmotorsports.com/Bikes/BBR_Bikes_Pages/Honda/CRF230/BBR_230/BBR_230.htm), they will only cost you money.

See here for more hints on the set up (http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fcarb.htm) look through all the pages from the menu at the top of the page.

A fork brace (http://crfsonly.com/reviews/srs-fork-brace/230f-review.php) may be worthwhile as wel, if you can get hold of Summers Racing Components, or get one from here (http://www.rswracing.com/crf230f.htm), they also have triple clamps.

More stuff here (http://www.xrsonly.com/content/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&c ategory_id=44&Itemid=70&Itemid=70) and here (http://www.xrsonly.com/content/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&c ategory_id=968&Itemid=70&Itemid=70)

Note: I have seen on XRs Only that they state that the (american) L version actually has a different frame than the CRF230F and not everything fits straight on, might be worth checking if the same applies to Aus models.

berg1
22-06-2010, 12:46 AM
What did they do to the shock Miranda? I read they can't be moded, but there is an after market one you can buy.

julzz had her bike done at choice..it now r=feels like a real race bike.. its great fun now^alc^alc

berg1
22-06-2010, 12:49 AM
julzz had her bike done at choice..it now feels like a real race bike.. its great fun now^alc^alc

xx

Pigdog
22-06-2010, 08:01 AM
Thanks ladies. I have had a look at Rick Ramsey as I use him a bit for my 250x, thanks Dennis.

Does anyone know of a company in Aus that does a rear rack for them, I can only seem to find US ones?

crofty
22-06-2010, 09:39 AM
new farm bike or for the missus?

2021
22-06-2010, 10:12 AM
I am getting a CRF 230 (L I think, the non ADR one) tomorrow, and was wondering if any one has any useful mods for the bike.

I will put bigger springs and heavier fork oil in, remove the air box lid and exhaust baffle.........any more you can recommend?


150R suspection works well

why are you getting one peediddy?

they weigh a chinese ton!!!

Pigdog
22-06-2010, 12:26 PM
new farm bike or for the missus?

150R suspection works well

why are you getting one peediddy?

they weigh a chinese ton!!!

New Maggot Taxi rounder upper. Can't really argue with a 3800 change over on the CTX200. Taller, lighter, better bike that can poke about behind a mob of sheep but I can mod to cope a bit better with my style of riding so it doesn't -

a) Kill me
b) I kill it (to badly)

Lots of rocks here, so the higher skinnier bike will be a bit better. I was going for the DRZ250, but they are just a little to much to justify to the owners for a farm deadly treadly.

crofty
22-06-2010, 01:21 PM
Nice. I'm sure you could get an AG rear rack to fit with a few mods so the dogs will be happy.

Pigdog
22-06-2010, 02:22 PM
Nice. I'm sure you could get an AG rear rack to fit with a few mods so the dogs will be happy.

Yeah, there is a little alloy one from the US that will do. I need to get rid of my bread crate so I don't feel the need to take 4 dogs everywhere, they are getting lazy.

Pigdog
24-06-2010, 02:07 PM
Well, I got her on Tuesday arvo, and I am bloody impressed with the little rocket. Might have to do a few enduro cross races on it, so light, you can just throw i about.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs150.snc4/36844_1509142528959_1246222162_1410205_4312165_n.j pg

geoffyboy
24-06-2010, 03:54 PM
I enjoy riding The wifes 230. Its sooooooo much lighter than the XR4.. lol

Rejetted and all restrictions removed make them go ok.

Even some more preload and heavier and higher fork oil makes a difference. The wife loves it and get up most stuff

Your never going to want to put it over motocross jumps

RED1
24-06-2010, 04:23 PM
Well, I got her on Tuesday arvo, and I am bloody impressed with the little rocket. Might have to do a few enduro cross races on it, so light, you can just throw i about.
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs150.snc4/36844_1509142528959_1246222162_1410205_4312165_n.j pg

Xr600 shock fits straight in, the front end can be changed but you need a spacer for the headstem as it is shorter than CR/XR. if you pull out the Airbox snorkel you will need to go up on the main jet, don't worry about the needle as its a waste of $30, just adjust the one in it if you need to.

Luv em, bloody great bike to muck around on with heaps of grunt, I want to build a special when I get some time.

Pigdog
24-06-2010, 06:40 PM
Xr600 shock fits straight in, the front end can be changed but you need a spacer for the headstem as it is shorter than CR/XR. if you pull out the Airbox snorkel you will need to go up on the main jet, don't worry about the needle as its a waste of $30, just adjust the one in it if you need to.

Luv em, bloody great bike to muck around on with heaps of grunt, I want to build a special when I get some time.

Yeah, I have done the air box Red, and I need to get a jet, I don't have the right one in my kit.

I have just added 50mm preload and heavier fork oil to the forks, and it has made a heap of difference. Shock will be next.

silverfox
24-06-2010, 10:30 PM
Does anyone know of a company in Aus that does a rear rack for them, I can only seem to find US ones?
I was reading a book today that had some great racks. All mounted on the front though:tick^ton

nifty
24-06-2010, 11:00 PM
I have a friend with one . Has heavier fork springs, power pipe and re-mapped ingnition.

Great fun to ride.

geoffyboy
24-06-2010, 11:19 PM
The wifes is running standard needle with clip in bottom position. Now running a 115 mainjet 102 is standard.

Read that the 120 was good for standard needle but made the bike feel fat in the upper revs. It revs freely all the way now. Nice and smooth

One thing I hate though is the rear drum. It needs to be adjusted after every ride.. Or maybe coise drags the brakes. I am yet to determin... lol

Grandpa
25-06-2010, 09:51 AM
G'day Pigdog
I've got a mate who rides one out on the trails............ it's completely standard, with crap tyres.
When he gets serious.................. you've got to be right on the ball just to keep up with him !!!!!!!!!!
But he is some sort of ex enduro ace !

Yamezz
25-06-2010, 11:53 PM
Xr600 shock fits straight in, the front end can be changed but you need a spacer for the headstem as it is shorter than CR/XR. if you pull out the Airbox snorkel you will need to go up on the main jet, don't worry about the needle as its a waste of $30, just adjust the one in it if you need to.

Luv em, bloody great bike to muck around on with heaps of grunt, I want to build a special when I get some time.

Red, why didn't Honda ADR the F like Yamaha does with the TTR? From what I can see and what I've read the L is nothing like the F. Seems like an ADR F model would have been an excellent alternative to the TTR-A.

RED1
26-06-2010, 12:31 AM
Cost

Keg
26-06-2010, 09:11 AM
BBR Rev Box....oh yeah!

Pigdog
26-06-2010, 10:43 AM
BBR Rev Box....oh yeah!

Hmmmm, yeah.


Hang on. I need to remember this is just a farm bike. I really don't want to go and do a lap of my track and find out I am quicker on it than the 250. That would be a disaster.

Might have to do vic series next year on one if I am.

Yamezz
26-06-2010, 12:45 PM
Cost

Can you elaborate a little? Does the L model come out of the factory in ADR guise, and therefore needs no modification at all?

I would love to have a registerable F model for the little lady to get around on.

geoffyboy
26-06-2010, 06:59 PM
I think from memory they are built in different countries. Thats what red1 said a while back.

Pigdog
26-06-2010, 07:07 PM
Well, with heavy fork oil and 50mm preload, it is great at soaking it all up, but the rebound is to slow.

Might have to try a little lighter, I think I went to thick to early.

Pigdog
26-06-2010, 07:12 PM
CRF230L ADR
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2008models/2008-Honda-CRF230La.jpg

CRF230F Non ADR
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2008models/2008-Honda-CRF230Fa.jpg

Tom68
26-06-2010, 07:25 PM
Well, with heavy fork oil and 50mm preload, it is great at soaking it all up, but the rebound is to slow.

Might have to try a little lighter, I think I went to thick to early.

Was gunna post earlier about being careful with fork oil weight. The forks probably don't have any type of blow off valve and if they don't by the time you get enough comp' damping feel with heavier oil they'll lock on high speed movements, hadn't considered the rebound.

Same problem for pre '85 competitors, common fix is drill out damper rods and fit gold valves.( EDIT I meant emulator valves )

Pigdog
26-06-2010, 07:40 PM
Was gunna post earlier about being careful with fork oil weight. The forks probably don't have any type of blow off valve and if they don't by the time you get enough comp' damping feel with heavier oil they'll lock on high speed movements, hadn't considered the rebound.

Same problem for pre '85 competitors, common fix is drill out damper rods and fit gold valves.

Yeah, I was thinking about drilling the rods out, there are 4 holes from memory.

Dennis
26-06-2010, 10:39 PM
L is a japanese domestic model actually sold as the xr230 so adr is easy.

F is a brasil made crf, not factory set up for rego anywhere.

Yamezz
27-06-2010, 01:13 AM
L is a Japanese domestic model actually sold as the xr230 so adr is easy.

F is a brasil made crf, not factory set up for rego anywhere.

Thanks Dennis

rideo
09-08-2010, 07:11 PM
07 model crf 230

The changes from what it was were a larger MJ at 120 from a 102, clip dropped one position from the middle on the stock needle and pilot left alone at 42.5 even though a 45 was suggested.
Air screw untouched at i think 1 3/4 turns out, is a major bitch to try and set with a hot running motor anyhow...may have to hunt down one of those longer ones that i will link to later.
Baffle was drilled with 3x 10mm holes, one on the inside end cap and 2 on the sides of it, airbox was already de snorkeled.
Changes were made following the sourcing of info on the net including but not limited to this site:
http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fdiy.htm

So... bottom end i cant say i felt any difference and i wasn't really expecting any there anyhow.
Midrange however was much stronger and almost felt like something that even i could be happy with....ok maybe not but i'm sure it will be enough for the missus now anyhow.
Top end...no good it wouldn't pull with the bigger MJ, i will be trying a 115 next then a 110 if it is still too much.
Obviously i will add more to this as time goes by and more tuning is done.

disco
09-08-2010, 07:27 PM
what sorta needle do you have ? rr's site says the 06+ needle only has two clip positions and that you need the 05 needle ? I haven't pulled it out yet :(

CRF230F Forks 101 Link ->

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-244653.html

Jetting experts on TT are pushing this as the best solution - but main sounds big >

Main: #120 99113-GHB-1200
Pilot: #45 99103-MT2-0450
Needle Set: 05 Needle 16012-KPS-901 (clip in 4th position).

I'm going to modify the baffle instead of removing it as well... will report back on the results. But I think the bike is plenty fast as it. The forks and tyres are my main problem at the moment :)

Airbox baffle didn't look alot smaller than the stock 250x one ? and I thought it made pretty good power with it in, so not sure I will touch that either.

rideo
09-08-2010, 07:35 PM
I believe there is some differences in what they yanks got and what we have here.
I'm leaning to thinking that we are still getting the pre 05 spec setups as my 2 [05 and 07] are identical in their jetting.
That is what started me on all of this in the first place, i rode the 2 of them back to back at Wooragee not long ago and the 05 had far more grunt than the newer one so i pulled the carbs apart to check specs and they were identical bar 1mm difference on float level.
Valve clearances and everything else i can see are the same.
Looking for an answer i came across that page above and others that made me decide to stuff around with the jetting to see what happens.

Oh, both needles on the bikes are 5 position jobs, not 2, but i'm pretty sure they are unmarked as to what model they are?.
Edit, disregard the unmarked comment, i wrote the numbers down they are in the shed will look later..goldfish and all that;)

Editx2: Disco, when you go to check/change the needle, don't do it as that link says to ie: don't fk around with pulling the clip off the link arm, just go straight to undoing the 2x phillips heads that hold the link assembly inside the slide barrel. It may be a bit more finicky getting the screws back in with the full link attached but it's one less step and it's less [tiny] parts removed to be flicking off into the ether under your bench.
Make sure either way you do it that the spring in there that sits over the end of the needle is actually sitting where it is supposed to be once the screws are back in, you will see what i mean when you get in there if you don't already.

disco
10-08-2010, 09:09 PM
Awesome thanks for the tip, I'll give it a crack soon.

Today I put the 5/8" spacers into the forks, put some thicker oil in and set it to 5.5" from the top (after factoring in the spacers).. which was about 300ml. Can't wait to see what it's like :D... I put an MT43 on the back which will add a bit more suspension to it!

Pigdog
10-08-2010, 09:39 PM
Don't you like my threads Riderbeaforgetfulloldman?

http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/showthread.php?t=70812&highlight=crf+230+mods

rideo
10-08-2010, 10:14 PM
Umm....oops^duh
We'll go with yours, I'll get a mod to delete this one.

rideo
10-08-2010, 10:17 PM
07 model crf 230
Review of some jetting changes made to a crf with snorkel removed and 3x 10mm holes in baffle.

The changes from what it was were a larger MJ at 120 from a 102, clip dropped one position from the middle on the stock needle and pilot left alone at 42.5 even though a 45 was suggested.
Air screw untouched at i think 1 3/4 turns out, is a major bitch to try and set with a hot running motor anyhow...may have to hunt down one of those longer ones that i may link to later.
Baffle was drilled with 3x 10mm holes, one on the inside end cap and 2 on the sides of it, airbox was already de snorkeled.
Changes were made following the sourcing of info on the net including but not limited to this site:
http://www.rickramsey.net/CRF230Fdiy.htm

So... bottom end i cant say i felt any difference and i wasn't really expecting any there anyhow.
Midrange however was much stronger and almost felt like something that even i could be happy with....ok maybe not but i'm sure it will be enough for the missus now anyhow.
Top end...no good it wouldn't pull with the bigger MJ, i will be trying a 115 next then a 110 if it is still too much.

disco
10-08-2010, 10:36 PM
Xr600 shock fits straight in, the front end can be changed but you need a spacer for the headstem as it is shorter than CR/XR. if you pull out the Airbox snorkel you will need to go up on the main jet, don't worry about the needle as its a waste of $30, just adjust the one in it if you need to.

Luv em, bloody great bike to muck around on with heaps of grunt, I want to build a special when I get some time.

What does the XR6 shock need ? spacer to shorten it and a softer spring ?

RED1
11-08-2010, 11:01 AM
XR600 shock is the same length, the top mount is a different thickness depending on the model and the pre 91 have a thin top mount and remote reservoir, I think the delta link on the 230 can take a stiff spring but I used a fournales air shock that was made for an XR600.

As far as jetting goes, all the USA guys ala ramsey are riding at 2500m so I would not be following their instructions.

disco
11-08-2010, 11:06 AM
so what are you saying redbits? the pre-91 is the go ?

RED1
11-08-2010, 11:24 AM
Yes, because you need to mount a remote reservoir as the piggy back style is no good, I think you may need some small spacers for the top mount, can't remember as it was about 6 years ago I played with one.


http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww184/xr650r5/picture0022uw.jpg
http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww184/xr650r5/picture0126ft.jpg

rideo
12-08-2010, 03:49 PM
Just finished some more playing around with the jetting, i is here to report that the 115 MJ goes a lot harder than the 120 which with hindsight was obviously way too much with only a few holes drilled in the baffle.
Midrange has improved even more and i really think now if i had to i could live with it...lucky i don't though.
I will keep going down in sizes until i feel i'm not gaining anymore, there is more to get as it used to rev harder with the 102 main [9770 rpm compared to now at 9000 rpm].
Using my own head to work shit out instead of going by what some nuffy on the net wrote i reckon seeing as i have only really given it another 10mm x 3 holes, presuming it was a bit lean as it was before i started fkn with it, then a 110 could still be large, maybe a 107.5 will be the right one in the end?

Changing the MJ is a pita btw, i suggest removing the heat shield from the exhaust to give you some more fingertip room. [i did it on the bike, no carb removal]

Summary at this stage, midrange is almost awesome, it is compared to what it was like anyhow.

Needle is a 039A btw Disco fyi.


I'm not sure about doing the 14 tooth on the front...but i will anyhow seeing as it's cheap and i can use the sprocket on my 270 if i choose to. [got a heap of 13's and 12's hey...but no 14^frt ]

Pigdog
12-08-2010, 08:57 PM
Just finished some more playing around with the jetting, i is here to report that the 115 MJ goes a lot harder than the 120 which with hindsight was obviously way too much

Using my own head to work shit out instead of going by what some nuffy on the net wrote

I bloody told you the 120was way to big, but did you listen, noooooooooo;)

I found my first issue with the bike today. When wearing MX boots, if you grip the bike properly with your legs, you can rip the carby clean out of the intake boot. The boot grips on the air box rubber boot and your grip rips it the carby out of the intake boot.

It took me ages to work out why it kept cutting out every time I stood up to mono over a drain or puddle or rock.

Tom68
12-08-2010, 09:07 PM
I bloody told you the 120was way to big, but did you listen, noooooooooo;)

I found my first issue with the bike today. When wearing MX boots, if you grip the bike properly with your legs, you can rip the carby clean out of the intake boot. The boot grips on the air box rubber boot and your grip rips it the carby out of the intake boot.

It took me ages to work out why it kept cutting out every time I stood up to mono over a drain or puddle or rock.

Bad time for cutting out. Will you get it tight enough to hang in there? or does it need another fix?

rideo
12-08-2010, 10:02 PM
Cuppla Tekscrews through the side oughta sort it out.
Use a button head so it doesn't gouge up ya boots.
































;)

Pigdog
12-08-2010, 10:27 PM
Nah, that won't help, it pulls the carby off the intake sleeve on the head side, not the air box off the carby.

disco
12-08-2010, 10:29 PM
CRF230's were designed to be ridden in blundstones you *****^lol

RED1
12-08-2010, 10:31 PM
Are you sure you don't have tentacles instead of legs?:confused-
I have never heard of that and I have spent a fair amount of time riding a 230 in all conditions.

Pigdog
12-08-2010, 10:36 PM
I dunno red, I checked and re checked the seating and clamp on both ends of the carby 10 times over.

You have to pull on it bloody hard, but when you squeeze with your boots, it really grabs into the rubber airbox.

RED1
12-08-2010, 10:43 PM
I think I found the problem!













http://i718.photobucket.com/albums/ww184/xr650r5/badger1.jpg

rideo
13-08-2010, 07:27 PM
What is that, a sheep or a dog or what?^^^^


Righto, the 110 MJ does well, got full rpm at 9760 no trouble and hit 105 in top before i ran out of dirt road, midrange has again improved with it lifting in second gear no trouble whatsoever from mostly throttle, the rest was shifting me arse back 50mm.
Tbh i hadn't tried previously to see what it would lift in but it has never felt this strong on the midrange which is what tempted me to try today.
I don't know if i can be bothered chasing any more by going smaller on the MJ, it will do as it is i think as it goes really well.
A summary of where the carb is at now jet wise etc can be had by sifting through my posts here on it, atm i cbf'd i is hungry gotta eat.

rideo
01-09-2010, 03:51 PM
A tip i have forgotten to mention is to remove the white headlight shroud, clean away any dirt/mud stains, dob a lump of silicone on the base of it and refit it.
This is to stop them rattling on a daily basis and flying off into the bush during a search for a $50 as they come off really easily.
The silicone will let go when you need it to.

I fitted up a 14 front today as i found a new one in a spares toolbox.
Verdict: certainly didn't cause it to bog down so is a good thing imo, rode some big earth mounds at a nearby housing estate, i was riding up in second for the first few until i realised then i had a go in first gear and i was nearly able to idle up them.
Ok, maybe a slight opening of the throttle...point being it is a good thing, run out and buy/fit one today!!

Oh, it only just fits btw, but it does fit, cover will go back on too.

58194

rideo
07-09-2010, 07:11 PM
I just did a top speed test run on the 230 with teh 14 tooth as opposed to punting around in a paddock.
I am now thinking it's a mod best done along with the baffle removal as it doesn't have the torque to pull full revs on the same bit of road that i previously got 105 on, just then i only got 103.
It had plenty to go, but it was slow in doing it, and i ran out of road.
[My bit of test road isn't flat btw, it undulates a bit]
I will leave it on at this stage as it still feels better in the lower gears and it will still certainly pull full revs down there, but given that it gets close to 200 kms per tank anyhow then i wont leave it on for the sake of economy alone, if test riding in the bush on real hills shows it may be better as it was then i will certainly change it back.

Summary: Depending on the type of riding you do i may not bother with changing from the 13.
May work fine with the baffle taken out.

RED1
07-09-2010, 07:18 PM
I did a top speed run on a stock 230, airbox baffle and mainjet mod only and I'm sure it did about 115k on my GPS.

rideo
07-10-2010, 12:57 PM
Gearing update:
Don't bother with the 14 tooth, stay with the stock gearing.

disco
07-10-2010, 01:11 PM
I took the baffle out and it seemed to run worse :confused: (just more noise) still had the stock main in though... tried dropping the clip but was still pretty average.

Sweet note tho eh' bro ?

Pigdog
07-10-2010, 02:10 PM
I took the baffle out and it seemed to run worse :confused: (just more noise) still had the stock main in though... tried dropping the clip but was still pretty average.

Sweet note tho eh' bro ?

Yeah, it does, till you give it a 115 main.

noidea
16-09-2011, 01:26 PM
Great info here, thanks all!

I'll be working on my wifes '09 230 on the weekend, and will be trying the 107 Main with the pipe and airbox mods. (thanks Rideo!)

berg1
16-09-2011, 08:35 PM
JD CRF's son did julies 230 is ace now forks and shock done by choice and motor rebuild and jetting done by young JD CRF...hes a gun ride and works for Boltons as a mac...

Single tk wepon

rideo
16-09-2011, 09:32 PM
JD CRF's son did julies 230 is ace now forks and shock done by choice and motor rebuild and jetting done by young JD CRF...hes a gun ride and works for Boltons as a mac...

Single tk wepon

Psst don't forget the rest of the story;)


As Noidea kind of alluded to, i have changed my mind slightly on the better MJ for this bike, it is now 107 rather than 110, needle as per before and same pilot etc.
It just cleans it up a bit more and still goes far better than the stock 102 MJ with needle in middle position.
Them yanks recommending a 120 MJ...that is [now] obviously way off the mark for our fuel over here, in the end i'm surprised that the stock jetting is actually so close and yet far enough off to make such a big difference.

rideo
05-10-2012, 11:27 AM
Ok i have found a rear shock for these bikes that seems to do what we want, for a price most would be happy with:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200807057998?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

No clue as to the quality but they are rebuildable so one would think you could put better bits in there if need be.

bosun300
12-01-2013, 12:47 PM
hello

im sorry i have had a medical stroke,so my proccessing,writing & reading is not very good.

i ve be researching the threads
i just want to check with the jetting.
bike is 2012 stock only removed air resricter
i beleive i should go up to main 107-110 area hunter not removing baffle so to much noise.
can i just leave stock needle & pilot ?
was is the easy way to remove the main

thanks for youre time

bo ^BGHD

rideo
12-01-2013, 01:13 PM
Summary of jetting mods:
Snorkel removed and baffle drilled 3X10mm holes inside the muffler where it needs them to improve gas flow.

MJ: 107.5
PJ: 42.5
Airscrew: around 1 3/4 turns out from seated.*
Needle: stock and clip at about the 2nd groove from bottom.*
Float: stock height.
Gearing: stock.




*This will vary depending on your height above sea level, season, motor condition and whether or not you drilled the baffle.

bosun300
12-01-2013, 09:29 PM
rideo

thanks

brent j
06-02-2013, 10:42 PM
We've just sold my wife's 230.
I removed the snorkel from the airbox, power up jetting, drilled the final baffle.
This gave it a bit more power and it ran cleaner.
I fitted forks from an 84-85 XR250, 1mm bigger dia but much more rigid. They also have bushes internally and are smoother. They were a direct bolt on and allowed common 38mm springs to be used. I fitted emulators but used the lightest preload springs.
I re-valved the rear shock. The suspension worked well and complimented the increased power.
The most successful mods were moving the bars and footpegs. This made the bike handle so much better
Check out
http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/983931-handlebar-position-interesting-numbers/
The details of our bike are on page two. I found this thread to be very interesting

Sox
28-02-2013, 06:33 PM
Evening gents,

Middle aged rider here, been riding since I was a young lad on various things over the years.
Bought a '10 CRF230F late last year.

I've removed the air box baffle and muffler baffle.
(Do you guys remove the rubber ring in the air box too, or just the large plastic piece? I'm guessing the ring may also be a small interruption to flow as well?).

I've fitted a 108m and 45p, and clip at position 4.

Bike starts easy, runs very well at low revs, but has a slight hiccup at middling revs when opening throttle from 1/2 to full.
Doesn't seem to pull as well at high revs as I would have expected either.

I'm guessing a richer main jet may help here, but it seems there's a lot of variation on what seems 'correct'.

I picked up a 115m jet today and will throw it in tomorrow.

I'm also vertically challenged at 5'5", and have adjusted the rear spring as low as possible while still offering a small amount of pre-load.
I've also dropped the forks down about 15mm - almost touching the bars.

I also fitted a 14t front sprocket as a lot of our rides are high-ish speed, so I wanted the engine a bit lazier to use the generous torque.
I have been clocked at 103kph in 6th, not on the limiter (I've never hit the limiter actually).

Hill climbing is still easy with first gear plenty short, and most hills still tackle in 2nd.

In a nutshell, I'm really enjoying this machine, no it's not as punchy as some other beasts I've ridden and owned, but at my age and it's intended usage, it's a really pleasant place to be.

BTW, I got wifey a '11 CRF150F a few weeks later too. She loves it.
Did the same air box and muffler mod as mine, any recommendations as to jetting for that?

rideo
28-02-2013, 08:55 PM
It isn't pulling well up top due to the 14 tooth front cog.
The midrange hiccup i don't really know, i'll have a think about it.
How's the airfilter, clean i presume?
I reckon you will find the 115 mj too big but see how you go anyhow
The 150, i have the info you need but i will need to locate it, it should be in here somewhere but the summary is you need to buy a new needle and needle seat as well as change the mj.
You may have to accept less than ideal performance from that carby btw as they are a pos imo, some weird design aspects and really hard to get spot on but changing those parts sees them run a LOT better.

Sox
28-02-2013, 09:30 PM
Thanks for the reply. :cheers
It isn't pulling well up top due to the 14 tooth front cog.

Was the same with the 13t, and it's through all gears.
Maybe I'm just to used to my old 2 stroke. :p

The midrange hiccup i don't really know, i'll have a think about it.

Bit more detail on that - is just a slight bog when throttling on from 1/2 way at anything below say mid rpm. Any gear.
It wasn't there when totally standard.

How's the airfilter, clean i presume?

New, plus spare cleaned and swapped often.

I reckon you will find the 115 mj too big but see how you go anyhow

I'm thinking similar at this point, with perhaps a 112 being closer to what I need.
I'm thinking the extra fuel may cover up the bog, telling me then to go back to 112m and maybe lowering the clip to #5.
(I would have gone for the 112m straight away, but the local bike shop only had a 115 and won't get the 112 until Monday - I wanted to mess with it this weekend, patience and all that... ^rof).

The 150, i have the info you need but i will need to locate it, it should be in here somewhere but the summary is you need to buy a new needle and needle seat as well as change the mj.
You may have to accept less than ideal performance from that carby btw as they are a pos imo, some weird design aspects and really hard to get spot on but changing those parts sees them run a LOT better.
Fair enough, one site said to just go from 105m to 110m and 38p to 40p.
I'll likely give that a go, but I'll wait for your info. ^nwrt

rideo
01-03-2013, 05:39 PM
Can't find the info and i'm not prepared to pull the carb off the 150 to find out.
I wanted to find the part no. for you to save you paying thru the nose to get the power up kit from crf's only but it looks like that is what you will have to do.
When you get it could you post the oem part no. here pls?
Don't let them charge you the quoted $42 freight either, shoot them a pm sooking about it and they will sort out a refund for you, after you pay the full price.
They did it for me so it shouldn't be an issue for ya.

Sox
02-03-2013, 10:41 AM
The throttle response from 1/4 to full throttle is significantly improved, as is pull at higher revs.
I haven't been able to stretch it's legs at the trail up the road yet, but through the lower gears on site, it's substantially better.

I changed the main jet from 108 to 115, no other change.

Will report back later today if the weather settles a bit.

Rideo - RE the 150F, you grabbed the whole 'power up' kit rather than just farting around playing with various main and pilot jets?
The kit includes needle, yes?

I'm hesitant to change too much at once.

Does 110m and 40p ring a bell to you, or you have no recollection?

As for buying the parts, I generally get them from the local Honda dealer, they look after me pretty well and have a lot in stock.

rideo
02-03-2013, 10:47 AM
Nah i had already sorted the mj and pj so just bought the needle and seat from them.
I only recall they were close to what the 230 was using.
I had to buy from C/O rather than a local shop as they wouldn't hand over the details of the part no hence me asking you to post it up here when you get it.
It is a genuine part though not a/m

Al.C
02-03-2013, 10:55 AM
Evening gents,

I have been clocked at 103kph in 6th, not on the limiter (I've never hit the limiter actually).



I thought they were a 5 speed box ??

Sox
02-03-2013, 11:13 AM
Nah i had already sorted the mj and pj so just bought the needle and seat from them.
I only recall they were close to what the 230 was using.
I had to buy from C/O rather than a local shop as they wouldn't hand over the details of the part no hence me asking you to post it up here when you get it.
It is a genuine part though not a/m
The lads are great at my local, very helpful and free with info.

I just went up the road to the fire trail and it revs out substantially better.
I still may try a 112 to at some stage too.
I thought they were a 5 speed box ??
The 150F is a 5 speed and the 230F is 6 speed. ^roost

rideo
02-03-2013, 11:54 AM
There must be some other difference going on between ours because both of my 230's suffered up top with anything larger than a 110 mj, they both ran better with a 107.5.

Sox
02-03-2013, 11:59 AM
Didn't you say you have holes drilled in the baffle?

My baffle is removed.

rideo
02-03-2013, 12:03 PM
Yep that will do it, they won't pull the bigger jets unless that is out but i thought yours was in.
Why do you have it out?
The slight gain in performance does in no way justify the harm you could potentially be doing our sport with that extra volume.
It's not like you are racing for sheep stations.
Are you riding in the middle of nowhere or within earshot of humans that will get pissed off?
The way you now have it has made it a fire risk, puts you at risk of MASSIVE Fines from the EPA and will burn out your exhaust valves due to lack of backpressure, i will have to suggest you rethink that decision.

Sox
02-03-2013, 01:07 PM
Yep that will do it, they won't pull the bigger jets unless that is out but i thought yours was in.
Why do you have it out?

Sounds better, performs better.

The slight gain in performance does in no way justify the harm you could potentially be doing our sport with that extra volume.

I guess that's true if you were to ride through the 'burbs.

It's not like you are racing for sheep stations.
Are you riding in the middle of nowhere or within earshot of humans that will get pissed off?

Always in the middle of nowhere.
I would never ride to irritate anyone.

The way you now have it has made it a fire risk,

Not IMO, but certainly a debatable topic.

puts you at risk of MASSIVE Fines from the EPA

For what? It's not a legal requirement to have a spark arrestor in OZ as far as I'm aware.

and will burn out your exhaust valves due to lack of backpressure,

No, only a lean condition will burn out valves.

i will have to suggest you rethink that decision.

I appreciate the thought, but I think I'll be leaving it as it is.

The baffle in these bikes (pretty much all bikes) is actually designed to be removed from the manufacture.
I find it more strange that this is being discouraged, considering the advantages without it.

I don't find it very loud or in the least bit offensive with the baffle removed.

My roadbike is actually somewhat louder and has passed NSW registration check every year for the last 20 years without question.
Plus numerous random roadside checks by the law.

This has aftermarket Staintune mufflers with the baffles removed.

rideo
02-03-2013, 06:30 PM
Sounds better, performs better.

I guess that's true if you were to ride through the 'burbs.


Always in the middle of nowhere.
I would never ride to irritate anyone.
K

Not IMO, but certainly a debatable topic.
True in normal operation but should your motor detonate there is now nothing to stop bits of hot metal flying out the end of the pipe

For what? It's not a legal requirement to have a spark arrestor in OZ as far as I'm aware.
I'm under the opposite impression but happy to be corrected

No, only a lean condition will burn out valves.
Some ppl would debate that...but seeing as you are jetting to suit then yeh it's not an issue in this case.

I appreciate the thought, but I think I'll be leaving it as it is.
It's your right to make your own decisions, personally i like to make ones that don't impact on others or myself unduly, but that's just me

The baffle in these bikes (pretty much all bikes) is actually designed to be removed from the manufacture.
I find it more strange that this is being discouraged, considering the advantages without it.
I don't find it very loud or in the least bit offensive with the baffle removed.

All of that is open for discussion too, myself and nearly everyone i know hates the sound of a gutted 4T muffler, they sound like shit, are annoying as hell and it screams out bogan or pitbike rider as it's only those types that are prepared to create so much noise for the sake of a dubious HP gain.
Others will buy a larger cc bike to satisfy their HP needs and enjoy less noise as a bonus.


My roadbike is actually somewhat louder and has passed NSW registration check every year for the last 20 years without question.
Plus numerous random roadside checks by the law.

This has aftermarket Staintune mufflers with the baffles removed.

Yeah Hardlys get away with their noise levels too, i don't know how but again i don't know of too many ppl that enjoy the sound of them riding by, moreso when the dicks riding them give it a handful of revs as well.
[100+ of them cruising down the hwy does sound fkn awesome though, as does the start of an open class mx race]
But if you are riding out the back of Bourke then it's not an issue so go for it. :laughing- ^roost

Sox
02-03-2013, 07:04 PM
True in normal operation but should your motor detonate there is now nothing to stop bits of hot metal flying out the end of the pipe

True in theory I suppose.
But wow, it would need to be some pretty bad detonation.
10yo 91 fuel with 13:1 C/R on a 40deg day anyone? :speechles

I'm under the opposite impression but happy to be corrected

I think only certain farm machinery require spark arrestors. But yeh, as I said, only as far as I'm aware.
Happy to stand corrected myself, though I did do a brief search and is what I've understood for as long as I can remember (which to be fair, ain't that long :confused:).

It's your right to make your own decisions, personally i like to make ones that don't impact on others or myself unduly, but that's just me

Same.
I only go to secluded riding areas, or a buzz on my own property (25acre rural location).

All of that is open for discussion too,

Of course, loudness and type of sound is very subjective.

myself and nearly everyone i know hates the sound of a gutted 4T muffler, they sound like shit, are annoying as hell

Hmm, I really like the sound of the 230 baffle-less, most I know think so too.
Are we on the same wave length here?
I still have the end cap on the muffler, just the internal baffle removed.
I know it sounds like you describe if the end cap is also left off.

and it screams out bogan or pitbike rider as it's only those types that are prepared to create so much noise for the sake of a dubious HP gain.

Yep, know the type. I can assure you I ain't one of those...
...But I also don't mind a small amount of pleasant racket.

Others will buy a larger cc bike to satisfy their HP needs and enjoy less noise as a bonus.

I kinda like the bike, and if I did happen to have a larger one, I'd likely do the same anyway.
It's not the extra HP which is strictly required, it's also to do with making the engine run more efficient because it can easily.
I really dislike silly restrictions just for the sake of bureaucratic BS.

Obviously the extra HP (however minor) is always nice.

Yeah Hardlys get away with their noise levels too, i don't know how but again i don't know of too many ppl that enjoy the sound of them riding by, moreso when the dicks riding them give it a handful of revs as well.

I can see we're gonna get on real well...
...I have a HD too, it's no louder than the Duc though.

[100+ of them cruising down the hwy does sound fkn awesome though, as does the start of an open class mx race]
But if you are riding out the back of Bourke then it's not an issue so go for it. :laughing- ^roost
:cheers

rideo
09-03-2013, 03:32 PM
Hey i found the needle part no if you're still after it.
It's 16012-KPT-921, it should come with the needle and a new needle seat.

Sox
12-03-2013, 11:55 AM
Hey i found the needle part no if you're still after it.
It's 16012-KPT-921, it should come with the needle and a new needle seat.
Since we spoke, I've pulled the carb to just to see what it had standard.

The sites I found all said 105m and 38p.
Reality is different, mine had 95m and 40p.

Interestingly the standard jets removed from my 230 were 102m and 42p.
1+1=2 where I come from.

So now the 150 has 102m and 42p which seems to work really well.

It doesn't seem to need anything else.

rideo
12-03-2013, 06:39 PM
Strange, i found mine [the lads] to be really woeful midrange after i changed out the mj and pj but the new needle really lit it up^dunno
And yes the jets are very close to what the 230 had/has now.
I also bought a long reach air screw as the factory one is impossible to adjust while the carb is in place, but the new one which has a T at its base is almost as hard to adjust mainly due to the starter motor hogging all the space in that area...so i dunno if it was worth the money.
The only real issue with it now tune wise is it's hard to find a happy medium with the idle when cold to when it's hot, i seem to have got it half decent but again imo that carb is a pos, but it certainly goes a lot harder now with the jet change.

dionalessi
13-03-2013, 07:30 PM
How did you guys find your stock bars?

Mine lasted me quite a while then bent on a massive stack. Got new ones, they were poo. One little stack and they bent. Now I'm throwing a pair of Renthals on

Sox
14-03-2013, 07:22 AM
Strange, i found mine [the lads] to be really woeful midrange after i changed out the mj and pj but the new needle really lit it up^dunno
And yes the jets are very close to what the 230 had/has now.
I also bought a long reach air screw as the factory one is impossible to adjust while the carb is in place, but the new one which has a T at its base is almost as hard to adjust mainly due to the starter motor hogging all the space in that area...so i dunno if it was worth the money.
The only real issue with it now tune wise is it's hard to find a happy medium with the idle when cold to when it's hot, i seem to have got it half decent but again imo that carb is a pos, but it certainly goes a lot harder now with the jet change.
I cut a slot in the mixture screw, and now I can get a tiny screwdriver in.

Idles well, takes throttle well, has good top end, and the plug is a nice colour.

What don't you like about the carb? Seems to work fine now.
How did you guys find your stock bars?

Mine lasted me quite a while then bent on a massive stack. Got new ones, they were poo. One little stack and they bent. Now I'm throwing a pair of Renthals on
My bars are fine, but then I haven't come off it....... Yet. :violent-s

rideo
14-03-2013, 07:33 AM
I cut a slot in the mixture screw, and now I can get a tiny screwdriver in.

Idles well, takes throttle well, has good top end, and the plug is a nice colour.

What don't you like about the carb? Seems to work fine now.

My bars are fine, but then I haven't come off it....... Yet. :violent-s


The only real issue with it now tune wise is it's hard to find a happy medium with the idle when cold to when it's hot, i seem to have got it half decent but again imo that carb is a pos, but it certainly goes a lot harder now with the jet change.

The tune doesn't seem quite right and shouldn't be this hard to get right, and as per the quote the idle can vary a bit, plus being a screwdriver job to adjust is a pita.
It does have a fmf muffler on it so maybe that is affecting it.
It has a diaphragm assembly hanging off the side which i'm not partial to as well, i've seen simpler carbs work well in the past and don't see the need to run a more complicated version on a kids bike.

Diona stock bars are pretty average, i usually don't wait too long before fitting fatties.

dionalessi
14-03-2013, 01:45 PM
Yeah.

Had to get my rear brake shoes replaced a few weeks back because they were constantly slipping. Got new shoes, took it for a ride. Slipped again. Took it back to the mechanic and getting him to fix it as I know shit all about drum brakes.

651
21-03-2013, 06:04 AM
The tune doesn't seem quite right and shouldn't be this hard to get right, and as per the quote the idle can vary a bit, plus being a screwdriver job to adjust is a pita.
It does have a fmf muffler on it so maybe that is affecting it.
It has a diaphragm assembly hanging off the side which i'm not partial to as well, i've seen simpler carbs work well in the past and don't see the need to run a more complicated version on a kids bike.

Diona stock bars are pretty average, i usually don't wait too long before fitting fatties.
i have a fmf muffler on a powroll header with air box mod , needle change ,mj change,standard pilot jt ,since 2005 new,never altered since,takes a wile to warm up 2 to 3 mins then perfect and run 15 50 sprockets

danho
07-04-2013, 04:06 PM
G'day guys, bought my 07 crf239f and been riding it without an issue. Decided to rejet the thing. Air box and muffler mods. Took out the main jet and found a 132 in it. Changed it to a 107.5 and now it seemed to lose power. It flattens out a little in 2nd when I get to about 3/4 throttle and just doesn't seem to pull as hard as it did when I had the 132 in it. What's the best jetting? I live in melbourne

Hopkins
26-04-2013, 09:14 PM
Dan, I reckon your bike has a "Honda full power needle" in there.

There needles are obviously a lot fatter, or at least have a smaller taper (run leaner up top) so require compensation with a much larger main.
On the BBR website they mention the jetting specs for the pilot and main are a lot different if you run the alternative needle.


http://www.bbrmotorsports.com/Tech/FAQ/FAQ.aspx

That explains why a 132 main has been put in there and it runs worse when dropping it down. With the standard needle a 132 would be massive.

danho
27-04-2013, 12:43 AM
Thanks for the info mate, I'll try the 132 back in there and see how it goes. It does make sense though

pastorjdh
22-06-2013, 07:12 AM
In case you come here looking to modify your CRF230f and don't see this advice elsewhere, a lot of people have found the best modification to be removing the air restrictor from the air box, the baffle from the spark arrestor and then re-jetting with a 120 main jet and a 45 pilot jet. This will work with the stock 03' to 05' needle with the clip in the fourth position from the top. If you have a later model then you need to buy the stock 03' to 05'. I have an 07' and it has a strange needle with just two clip positions so I had to buy the 03' to 05' needle. All in all the needle and jets cost me under $40 and were pretty easy to install.

I did this mod and my bike runs much, much better. I don't even have to choke it to start it and the cold nature disappeared completely. I can now pop wheelies and cut ruts with the extra power and I could not do that before. I feel much more comfortable jumping now and am looking to upgrade my suspension now to handle it. I have a YZ250F that is obviously much better for that but when friends come and ride with me and they want to jump also and I put them on the Honda :-)

03-05 Stock needle (16012-KPS-901), #120 main jet, #45 pilot works like a charm.

Hopkins
22-06-2013, 08:11 AM
I'm not taking out the baffle as the best thing about this bike is how quiet it is.

I put my 2 year old on the front while chatting away to her, ride very close to other houses without disturbing anyone.

Has anyone done only the airbox? If so, what jetting changes were made after that?

FlatPeakedRacer
03-09-2013, 01:08 PM
does anyone have the BBR subframe for their crf230? I want to make my bike taller as im very tall and I hear the BBR subframe lifts the back up a lot. Do you need to put longer forks in witht he taller subframe?

Al.C
03-09-2013, 08:49 PM
You would be better off up grading to a 250

rideo
03-09-2013, 09:14 PM
In case you come here looking to modify your CRF230f and don't see this advice elsewhere, a lot of people have found the best modification to be removing the air restrictor from the air box, the baffle from the spark arrestor and then re-jetting with a 120 main jet and a 45 pilot jet. This will work with the stock 03' to 05' needle with the clip in the fourth position from the top. If you have a later model then you need to buy the stock 03' to 05'. I have an 07' and it has a strange needle with just two clip positions so I had to buy the 03' to 05' needle. All in all the needle and jets cost me under $40 and were pretty easy to install.

I did this mod and my bike runs much, much better. I don't even have to choke it to start it and the cold nature disappeared completely. I can now pop wheelies and cut ruts with the extra power and I could not do that before. I feel much more comfortable jumping now and am looking to upgrade my suspension now to handle it. I have a YZ250F that is obviously much better for that but when friends come and ride with me and they want to jump also and I put them on the Honda :-)

03-05 Stock needle (16012-KPS-901), #120 main jet, #45 pilot works like a charm.

A 120 MJ?
When did you last pull the plug to check its color?
Both of the 230's here choked on a 115 and the 120 i tried out only lasted as long as it took to get into 4th gear before i knew it was way too large.
I've since settled on a 108 which will run clean and pull hard all the way out to max rpm.

FlatPeakedRacer
08-09-2013, 10:14 AM
were can I buy a 108 jet from and how do I fit it?

Hopkins
08-09-2013, 10:08 PM
were can I buy a 108 jet from and how do I fit it?

Your Honda dealer, it'll be about $14.
If you buy an OKO version on eBay probably more the $3.

To fit it your best doing some searches, it's a bit more complicated than some carbs but jetting changes are pretty easy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

rideo
27-12-2013, 04:47 PM
Hey PD, if i post up a spec list like oil volumes valve clearances etc could you add it to the first post please?

Pigdog
05-01-2014, 08:48 PM
Hey PD, if i post up a spec list like oil volumes valve clearances etc could you add it to the first post please?

Sure can.

rideo
10-01-2014, 10:55 PM
This is just a generic spec list, i'm waiting to hear back from the local Honda tech as to the workshop specs i wanted to post up.
They won't actually be much more than valve clearances and fork oil volumes etc like i said above
Fork boots have shown up to be a short life item btw, how are yours going?
They aren't readily available online either afaict , i've had to go OEM locally at around $80 for the pair.

Don't bother quoting the following until i get it all together then do the lot at once when it suits, if that suits.




Model: Honda CRF230F
Year: 2009
Category: Enduro / offroad


Engine and transmission
Displacement: 223.00 ccm (13.61 cubic inches)
Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke
Compression: 9.0:1
Bore x stroke: 65.5 x 66.2 mm (2.6 x 2.6 inches)
Valves per cylinder: 2

Valve clearance:
Inlet: 0.004
Exhaust: 0.004

Fuel system: Carburettor. 26mm piston-valve carburator
Fuel control: SOHC
Ignition: CDI
Cooling system: Air
Gearbox: 6-speed
Transmission type,
final drive: Chain


Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels
Rake (fork angle): 27.3
Trail: 112 mm (4.4 inches)
Front suspension: 37mm leading-axle Showa fork
Front suspension travel: 241 mm (9.5 inches)

Fork oil volume/height/weight:
380cc +/- 2.5cc
144mm
10W

Rear suspension: Pro-Link Showa single-shock with spring-preload adjustability [WOOHOO!!]
Rear suspension travel: 229 mm (9.0 inches)
Front tyre dimensions: 80/21-21
Rear tyre dimensions: 100/18-18
Front brakes: Single disc
Front brakes diameter: 240 mm (9.4 inches)
Rear brakes: Expanding brake (drum brake)
Physical measures and capacities
Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 112.9 kg (249.0 pounds)
Seat height: 866 mm (34.1 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting.
Ground clearance: 297 mm (11.7 inches)
Wheelbase: 1,374 mm (54.1 inches)
Fuel capacity: 7.19 litres (1.90 gallons)


Other specifications
Color options: Red
Comments: Model ID: CRF230F


Summary of jetting mods:
For a bike with snorkel removed and baffle drilled 3X10mm holes inside the muffler where it needs them to improve gas flow.

MJ: 107.5
PJ: 42.5
Airscrew: around 1 3/4 turns out from seated.*
Needle: stock and clip at about the 2nd groove from bottom.*
Float: stock height. [12.5mm]
Gearing: stock.


*This will vary depending on your height above sea level, season, motor condition and whether or not you drilled the baffle.
As will the jetting to a small degree, the above goes well at 350mts.



Part no.6 [and 10, thanks Wosat] in this link will cause gear selection issues at around the 4-6K mark, a cheap and easy fix and if you 'lay it on its side' you won't even have to change out the oil:

http://www.hondapartshouse.net/oemparts/a/hon/5053e089f870021c54be0871/gearshift-drum

The crf150 gets the same problem at the same age, i'm guessing it's the same part^^^ [yet to fix the 150]

wosat
10-01-2014, 11:00 PM
Part no.6 in this link will cause gear selection issues at around the 4-6K mark, a cheap and easy fix and if you 'lay it on its side' you won't even have to change out the oil:

http://www.hondapartshouse.net/oemparts/a/hon/5053e089f870021c54be0871/gearshift-drum

The crf150 gets the same problem at the same age, i'm guessing it's the same part^^^ [yet to fix the 150]

Get part no 10 while you are at it too. It wears along with No6.

rideo
10-01-2014, 11:05 PM
Get part no 10 while you are at it too. It wears along with No6.

Correct you are, we did get both when i fixed her bike a while back but i couldn't remember part which it was.
Iirc that part was actually in good nick but i was told to get both for the reason you said so i did, still a cheap fix for a niggly problem.
I'll edit the above post to mention that.

Hopkins
10-01-2014, 11:38 PM
Quick addition to the thread.
Recently installed the cartridge emulators in my baby Honda and the forks are now brilliant.

A huge improvement from stock, while still really plush, they actually handle the big hits damn well.
Xr600 shock will be dropped in soon, I assume you have to use the xr600 spring by the looks of things.


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rideo
11-01-2014, 12:27 AM
Quick addition to the thread.
Recently installed the cartridge emulators in my baby Honda and the forks are now brilliant.

A huge improvement from stock, while still really plush, they actually handle the big hits damn well.
Xr600 shock will be dropped in soon, I assume you have to use the xr600 spring by the looks of things.


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That's very interesting, got links/prices by chance?
It's the rear end i really want to sort out, they are so slow in their action it's painful.
The 600 shock doesn't just drop straight in does it, don't you have to revalve it to suit the lower weight or does the clicker range cover it?
Maybe a lighter oil would suffice with a play of the clickers too?

rideo
14-01-2014, 11:38 AM
The above is now complete PD, clean it up as needed and copy/paste when ya good to go. :grinning-

rideo
28-08-2014, 05:30 PM
The ol girl got a bit of a makeover recently [the bike not the missus] after it had clocked up about 70 odd hours on the new ring set that i put in.

The new rings didn't last, i can only assume they are the same shite quality as what comes with them stock. A bit before Easter it started blowing fat and ended up getting pretty bad.

I decided to go for an oversized forged Wiseco, it took ages as no one on the planet had stock of any brand in an oversize so i had to wait from some to get made.

In the end a late night purchase was done incorrectly and i ended up with a stock sized [65.5mm] high comp [11-1] forged unit from Wiseco, the mistake wasn't realised until i took the barrel to the machine shop to get it drilled out to a larger size.
Whilst there i dropped the piston onto the barrel and it fell in.^BGHD^BGHD

I looked into returning it for the one i wanted and it was possible but there was a lot of fkn around to be done and i had a crf230 donk in exploded form across my workshop which tends to hold up other jobs so i did an accurate measure up of the bore.

It was just under spec for the forged unit, so with a bit of a hone which got it spot on i decided to just use it.
Ring end gaps were checked and found to be perfect too.

Some spanner spinning was done and last w/e we run it in out at Yack.

Goes great, pulls a lot harder right across the whole rpm range, jetting is slightly out even after playing with it a bit but it's close enough to take out again for a proper ride to see exactly where it is at.




While the 230 was on the operating table i decided to eliminate one of my peeves with it which is the rear brake pedal that i seem to be forever straightening out so i fitted a folding tip:

Sick of this?
96087

Get one of these
96088

One of these
96089

These are handy too
96097

Measure things up
96090

Draw lines anywhere randomly, it's fun and keeps everyone wary
96091

Cut stuff until you end up with this
96092

And this, i changed my mind on what dimension i was going with so had to adjust the tip to suit
96093

After some shocking treatment you may end up with this
96094

Then it looks like that
96095

A worthy way to spend 40 minutes.

nimj
28-08-2014, 06:13 PM
That was a serious build post :laughing-

Hopkins
21-04-2015, 08:36 AM
I used the race tech gold valves in my front end. These are available from their website and ebay sellers.
Rear end I haven't had much luck with, the xr600 shock has a completely different (and stiffer spring) so is not a bolt in job by any means.

It's frustrating there's no details about what springs people are using as the rear end is definitely an issue.

I just stumbled on what seems like an awesome carb swap the other day. Stock 30mm xr250 carb using the crf 230 needle. Apparently the carb is identical just 2mm bigger and it works very well from the get go.

Anyone done it? I've very keen to give it a go.

rideo
21-04-2015, 09:28 AM
Nice info Hoppy, shame i've just about sold the 230.

It hasn't actually even been ridden since i did the brake pedal mod above :(

I'll pass on the info about the 600 shock to someone that is about to do it, and the carby info.

Do you recall what mj and pj were in the 250 carby?

Hopkins
21-04-2015, 09:38 AM
Pilot jet was 45, main anywhere from 120 - 132.

I think the yanks seem to run bigger jets than us for the most part, I was going to stick on the lower side of this.

Using the earlier crf needle is apparebtky the hot ticket, on the 4th clip it's good, the later model 2 position clip won't work well.

I'm much more excited about this carby conversion than adding an FCR (if you could ever get one to fit) or a pumper carby. One of the things I love about these older air cooled machines is their really tractable, progressive with great bottom end. Putting on a more modern high performance carb could easily make them too snappy which would be a shame.

Over the next month I'm going to have a look at the rear shock and this carb conversion, next update should be a bit sooner than my last.

Hopkins
01-05-2015, 01:59 PM
Some information for anyone wanting to put an XR600 shock in they're crf230.

Despite the info from the yanks (who must be regurgitating what they've read) it IS NOT a bolt in mod.

The xr shock (mine is an 89 model) is around 10mm shorter, with both shocks being so short, this makes a massive difference.
If you bolt it in, the bike will be sitting an inch and a half lower and it's clear on full droop things aren't right.

I'm currently looking at options to fix this, one is adding an extension to the actual shock, the other is adding an extra mount on the frame, 10mm or so lower from the orginal point.

It's hard to believe there is so much talk out there about this conversion, yet no one mentions the difference in length. I noticed it as soon as I compared the shocks but threw it in anyway just to make sure nothing magic happened once in there.
Nope, she's clearly too short!

Hopkins
01-05-2015, 06:36 PM
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/38e2761d750411594b2398080479512a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/01/b37de580c9cccb84f5987a3f19f65e61.jpg

Straight bolt in, not!

Good news is that if I drop the top mount down 15mm on the crf frame I still shouldn't have any issues with travel, as the xr600 shock has a much longer throw.




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rideo
01-05-2015, 06:43 PM
Well as it turns out the stockie is rebuildable.

If you can get in there to do seals etc then surely the slow damping rate could be sped up a bit, sure there would be no adjustability externally still but at least it would cope with higher speed hits and maybe not send you OTB.

Fitting up a 600 shock sounds like heaps more hassle, worth it if you get it to work but for kids that are getting faster than the stock shock can cope with then a 'simple' rebuild and mod may suffice.

Hopkins
01-05-2015, 07:39 PM
I see welding a tab 15 - 20mm lower on the top mount to fit the xr600 shock easier than rebuilding the stock one.

Only as I have plenty of scrap steel and a mig on site, if you were paying someone it would be a hassle.

One idea I'm flirting with for the xr600 shock is extending that mount even more to increase the travel a little, maybe 20-30mm.
I'll do the measurements next week as it may not work but I figure it would be another minor benefit with this upgrade.

rideo
01-05-2015, 07:52 PM
What about ground clearance once you go through 330mm? of travel?

Or does it only go out to a bit under 300 with the increase you are talking about?

Stock is 250-270 yeh but the 600 shock is longer?

Hopkins
01-05-2015, 08:29 PM
What about ground clearance once you go through 330mm? of travel?

Or does it only go out to a bit under 300 with the increase you are talking about?

Stock is 250-270 yeh but the 600 shock is longer?

The plan was to try to add 10-15mm each way, which would be 20-30mm in total.
Just an idea at this stage, I'm thinking the more minimal the increase the less likely I'll have issues with seat height and ground clearance.

I'm gojng to put both shocks back in without springs and run them through their travel with the 600 mount point simulated in different positions.

BLKWDW
05-06-2015, 09:05 PM
So would you recomend installing racetech emulators over upgrading to larger shocks?
Springs in my wifes are crap. If you sit on it and drop the clutch to lift the front end you can hear the forks make a bang as it fully extends. Is this normal? Ive added washers for more pre load already and didnt do much.