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  #11  
Old 15-04-2018
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Nutty Nutty is offline
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To fix:

1) Add 1 bottle of Wynns engine flush to gearbox.
2) Go for a ride 20-30km.
3) Drop box oil.
4) Remove clutch pack
5) Wash frictions and metals in Prepsol/Shellite
6) Prep frictions on a surface plate with 220 AlOx
7) Wash frictions in Shellite
8) Fit new clutch basket
9) re-assemble
10) Fill with Motul 'Expert' only

p.s. Why do chaps think they can file clutch tangs to the same accuracy as a CNC mill?
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  #12  
Old 15-04-2018
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Ok looks like the inner basket is pretty warn too.

Wasn't even looking for it when I went in looking for the outer basket

Edit. Certainly is notchy and catches on the steels
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20180415_42524.jpg (44.0 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20180415_29840.jpg (33.5 KB, 23 views)
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  #13  
Old 15-04-2018
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Punch into Google as I did Nutty "define:AlOx". See what comes up.
Edit: I'll be deleting this post, as I assume you'll be amending yours.

Edit2: "Why do chaps think they can file clutch tangs to the same accuracy as a CNC mill?"
It's 'cause we're all broke-bodgy bastards: Cubans do ok with classic-yank cars: Don't they?
================================================== =================
If you do decide that your entire clutch assembly is stuffed slickncghia:
If I were you, I'd seriously consider replacing it with a "Hinson".. Go Big!
This website below is merely posted as an example:-
https://www.serco.com.au/
======================================
Yeah-well: If it's 220 wet & dry.. Why didn't He just bloody-well say so... Pious arse.
Edit: I do lov ya nut.
================================================== ============
Re. The surface... A sheet of glass is best... Or in lieu of that... A melamine veneer panel (kitchen cupboard door) works well too.
I'd likely use Kerosene as the wet part of the wet & dry for the metal plates... as-for the fibre ones.. I've no idea: I'd need to research that first.
Edit: I wouldn't stuff/fiddle around trying to fix/repair the fibre plates... As I would deem that as being an impossible & fruitless waste of time imo.
================================================== ================================================== ======
I'm a Ceramic Tiler btw.
Flat Porcelain Tile would work too... Provided it was flat... You'd need to check first.
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  #14  
Old 15-04-2018
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Fwiw despite being a dodgy cubano I gave the inner basket a little touch-up then petrol bath clean and recoil and now the pressure plate is moving up and down freely without bringing the other plates with it.

I'll put up the vid in a bit but right now it's time for a roast chook and veggies
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  #15  
Old 15-04-2018
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slickncghia slickncghia is offline
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Here the vid of the pressure plate doing the correct thing after tinkering with the inner basket so the steels don't catch and stick on the wear marks

hasn't fixed the drag issue though but its too late to fire it up or anything now and I am done for the day.

Thanks for all the help so far.

any more usefull not sarcastic advice is always welcome.

any more comments on the steels and friction plates? they stuffed?

pps. maybe its time for a rekluse

<might be overcapitalising though>
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  #16  
Old 15-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairyone View Post
Punch into Google as I did Nutty "define:AlOx". See what comes up.
Edit: I'll be deleting this post, as I assume you'll be amending yours.
Think Nutty is referring to this?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/sandblas...-pack_p1216567
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  #17  
Old 15-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutty View Post
To fix:
1) Add 1 bottle of Wynns engine flush to gearbox.
2) Go for a ride 20-30km.
3) Drop box oil.
4) Remove clutch pack
5) Wash frictions and metals in Prepsol/Shellite
6) Prep frictions on a surface plate with 220 AlOx
7) Wash frictions in Shellite
8) Fit new clutch basket
9) re-assemble
10) Fill with Motul 'Expert' only
FYI as its a TE450 the engine and gearbox oil are one and the same.

I'll try giving the plates a good clean and prepping as you said. cheers
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  #18  
Old 15-04-2018
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slickncghia slickncghia is offline
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yeah ive used ceramic tiles for that kinda thing before.
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  #19  
Old 15-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairyone View Post
Yeah-well: If it's 220 wet & dry... Why didn't he just bloody well say so... Pious arse.
Edit: I do lov ya nut.
My dear expert, qualified floor and wall tiler to the stars...the residue from AlO2 paper will completely wash out of fibre clutch plates, the carborundum from 'wet and dry' residues will a) not wash out, and b) destroy every ball-race surface in the entire motor and embed itself in the piston walls. Fair enough?

'Wet and dry' should NEVER be touched by any mechanic, it is a product meant for painters, even they don't use it on metallics nowadays.

I love you too Brother...

p.s. Mirror tiles are floated dead-flat and make a decent surface plate.
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  #20  
Old 15-04-2018
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So where is the/any link to what you're talking & preaching about Nutty?
I'm Not a Qualified Tiler: I adopted that Trade: I am a Qualified Mechanic.
So how about you quit belittling people & actually do contribute something.

You were one of those people of whom I had hoped would take an interest in this thread:
You reckon I may be so stupid as to not wash-off residue, I should have mentioned such.
================================================== ===============
Matters not one iota... As you can see from how quickly I'm responding:-
It's akin to cooking in the kitchen; make a mess; factor-in cleaning it up.

Edit: If an abrasive is required; then an abrasive is required.
Deal with & manage the consequences: Maybe I'm an idiot?

Edit2: I wasn't implying yoose maybe calling me an idiot:
I was-more asking that question of myself: Healthy Imo.
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That Which Doesn't Change... Stays The Same.
Those That Don't Fall... Just Aren't Trying Hard Enough.
Genius or Idiot... Sadly it's Defined by the Mediocre Masses... With their Hindsight.
Dicklaimer... The Text above is to be Evaluated by a Responsible Person... Prior to Any Action Being Taken.

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