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  #51  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwb79 View Post
I prefer to assemble the MV stack and piston on the rod and torque the nut. So basically assembled like it is in operation, just without the MV spring.

This eliminates the need to push and hold the spring away while measuring the float. It also gives me a better feel of the drag on the feeler gauge instead of feeling the spring force.

Sometimes it takes a few goes to get the float correct. This involves removing the nut, piston and shim stack again...and again. Only once I have the float correct, will I fit the spring and add a drop of loctite to the MV nut.
Very clever re pulling spring.
I will try to get out sunday if i get home this weekend & play with comp & reb'd.
In regards to float. What gap am I looking to achieve & how do I go about increasing or reducing it?
I can order extra shims to arrive before weekend if needed.
Cheers again for the guidance.
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  #52  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
In regards to float. What gap am I looking to achieve
That's the $64M question. A small change in MV float can make or break a fork. The "ideal" MV float is going to depend on many variables. The MV stack design, the BV stack, the terrain being ridden, your preference to fork feel.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
how do I go about increasing or reducing it?
There are many ways to do it, but trying to keep things simple for now, the best way is without altering the MV stack. This will help you isolate and identify the change made to damping by MV float only. See below.
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Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
12 1
24 1 x 3
20 1
18 1
16 1
14 1
10 3
16 2
Add 10 or 11mm shims here to reduce float
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