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Old 1 Week Ago
dieseldude dieseldude is offline
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2003 WR450f wiring and lights

Hi guys.

I have recently upgraded from the old WR250f to a slightly newer 2003 WR450f and it came with a KTM headlight wired in - which did not work. Also, the switch block had a couple of broken switches.

I have purchased a new switch block and have a headlight off a 2012 WR450f which I am fitting.

Should I be able to use a test pencil on the loom once the key is switched on, or must the bike be running to get power from the stator in order to test the loom plugs?

The ignition (key) switch has a spare earth and power terminal that gets supplied with power once the key is switched on. Does anything connect into this or is it supplied for future accessories etc?

I have access to a wiring diagram, but can't really make heads or tails of it just yet.

Thanks.

Anthony.
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Old 1 Week Ago
dieseldude dieseldude is offline
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I have answered one of my own questions........... The bike has to be running to test with the test pencil.

High beam and low beam works according to the test pencil. Does low beam always remain illuminated when high beam is switched on? If yes, then I have this one sorted.

The indicators aren't working, but a new flasher unit might be the answer here.

Other than that, I believe I have it sorted.

Cheers.
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Old 1 Week Ago
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hairyone hairyone is offline
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Others may weigh in here (I/we hope so) since I might be wrong:-
It should be possible to bypass the flasher without risking a short.

Then/the blinkers would come on; obviously they wouldn't flash:-
That should-then identify if the flasher-unit is operational or not.

I'd like to have low-beam on along with my high-beam.
The issue would/might be current draw on your stator:

Which might affect your ability to have a strong spark?
- That might-also be depleting your battery over time?
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Old 1 Week Ago
dieseldude dieseldude is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairyone View Post
Others may weigh in here (I/we hope so) since I might be wrong:-
It should be possible to bypass the flasher without risking a short.

Then/the blinkers would come on; obviously they wouldn't flash:-
That should-then identify if the flasher-unit is operational or not.

I'd like to have low-beam on along with my high-beam.
The issue would/might be current draw on your stator:

Which might affect your ability to have a strong spark?
- That might-also be depleting your battery over time?

Thanks for the reply.

I can't comment on the stator draw, but by purely reinstating the factory lights, I expect no adverse effects.

I'll buy another flasher unit and test it this way as I reckon it'll be easier to drive to Supercheap and spend $10 than it will be to bypass wiring. I remember having to replace the flasher unit on a past bike, so I imagine they play up from time to time with constant vibration, dirt and moisture.
The flasher unit looks to have been dented, so it might be part of the issue.

Cheers
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Old 1 Week Ago
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hairyone hairyone is offline
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If you're going to replace it anyways:-
Smash it open & then bridge it's relay:

Effectively bypassed... Yet-it remains in the link:-
Blinker/power is primary... Flasher-box secondary.

Doing this might save you some time/effort:
If you're not feeling confident... Then don't.

Realise a replacement flasher might-still not fix it:-
Taking the flasher out of the loop narrows it down.
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That Which Doesn't Change... Stays The Same.
Those That Don't Fall... Just Aren't Trying Hard Enough.
Genius or Idiot... Sadly it's Defined by the Mediocre Masses... With their Hindsight.
Dicklaimer... The Text above is to be Evaluated by a Responsible Person... Prior to Any Action Being Taken.

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