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  #11  
Old 13-06-2017
YamaDubR's Avatar
YamaDubR YamaDubR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Evan View Post
Hi Guys,
Just picked up a couple of new 2017 WR450F and found that the throttle is very switch like in first and second gears. I'm worried about managing this on slow tight single tracks. I've changed the mapping however this hasn't mproved this. There has been a suggestion that Increasing the idle speed might help. I haven't tried this yet. Can any of you guys have any advice. Both bikes are acting the same... If you could offer any help I'd be greatful.
Cheers Jason
Well done Jason, congratulations on the new bikes.
Besides the obvious "because I can", why did you buy two of the same bike? Do you compete?
If I had the opportunity to buy two new bikes, my choices would be a 450F & a 250F. Any 450F is a handful in the tight stuff & the new WR's are much closer to the YZ's.

I am running a 14T sprocket up-front, hardly ever use 1st gear & do most of my riding in 3rd. They have enough grunt without having to burn too much clutch.
Have you tried the "Hollis Map"?
Maybe try the following map: -
Fuel
+4 +4 +2
+2 +3 +4
+1 +2 +3
Ignition
0 0 +1
-1 0 0
-2 -1 0

'18 models out today do a lot with their cam profiles to attend to this low rev range issue.
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  #12  
Old 13-06-2017
Jason Evan Jason Evan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamaDubR View Post
Well done Jason, congratulations on the new bikes.
Besides the obvious "because I can", why did you buy two of the same bike? Do you compete?
If I had the opportunity to buy two new bikes, my choices would be a 450F & a 250F. Any 450F is a handful in the tight stuff & the new WR's are much closer to the YZ's.

I am running a 14T sprocket up-front, hardly ever use 1st gear & do most of my riding in 3rd. They have enough grunt without having to burn too much clutch.
Have you tried the "Hollis Map"?
Maybe try the following map: -
Fuel
+4 +4 +2
+2 +3 +4
+1 +2 +3
Ignition
0 0 +1
-1 0 0
-2 -1 0

'18 models out today do a lot with their cam profiles to attend to this low rev range issue.
I went with new bikes as I really didn't want to go with secondhand. Two as my Step brother wanted to get back on a bike .Originally I was signed up for the KTM 350 exc and 1 WR450F however I really agonised over the extra $$ and was worried about the maintenance. Anyhow very happy with the WRs and love the power etc. I've loaded the Hollis map, it was really cool we ran one with the Std setting and one on the Hollis and you could tell the difference immediately. So far now they are both on the Hollis map. I'll give the above map a go and see how it goes. I spoke with Yamaha and another bike mechanic who and they couldn't help with much n the way of suggestions... I like the thought of running a 14T up front, easy fix if it works. Really appriceate the advice thanks. Oh..would a recluse clutch help?
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  #13  
Old 13-06-2017
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hairyone hairyone is offline
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Yeah... Try the mapping first... Then I'd likely either file/sand down the cam on the nylon handle bar twist-grip.. or buy one that's already been done as suggested.
I went from an older 580cc 4t to a brand new 530cc 4t... I thought the newer bike would be superior & just as powerful... Yet sadly it wasn't... I was left wanting.
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  #14  
Old 13-06-2017
ktm wrench ktm wrench is offline
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I rode a 2017 wr450f with a 2014 yz450 smooth map we got from usa yamaha gytr. This map was very smooth off the bottom but still had shit loads of pull up top. Have a look on Yamaha USA GYTR yz450f maps.
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  #15  
Old 18-11-2017
Barry P Barry P is offline
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I just got this map of the US site as given above. It is for linear throttle slippery conditions. Does it look safe to use? Can I harm anything buy dialling in random numbers? I have a 17 model with same problems. Thanks
Fuel
+2 +2 +2
+2 +2 +2
+2 +2 +2
Ignition
-5 -5 -6
-5 -6 -6
-5 -5 -5
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  #16  
Old 18-11-2017
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YamaDubR YamaDubR is offline
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I used this map after the rains we had a few weeks ago. Not as much pop to get over logs, etc.
Richer is always safer.
I prefer less "retardation"; exhaust gets quite hot.
Start with two less in each box; i.e. -5 becomes -3, -6 becomes -4.
See how you like it, then try with one less; i.e. -5 becomes -4, -6 becomes -5.
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  #17  
Old 18-11-2017
Barry P Barry P is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YamaDubR View Post
I used this map after the rains we had a few weeks ago. Not as much pop to get over logs, etc.
Richer is always safer.
I prefer less "retardation"; exhaust gets quite hot.
Start with two less in each box; i.e. -5 becomes -3, -6 becomes -4.
See how you like it, then try with one less; i.e. -5 becomes -4, -6 becomes -5.
Thanks mate.
The Hollis map I am using is good and I have just gone to a 14 front sprocket but still jerky. Might have to go to a recluse with bigger rear sprocket if it stays like this.
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  #18  
Old 18-11-2017
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Tom68 Tom68 is offline
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Clutch control, if you don't want to spend.
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  #19  
Old 18-11-2017
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Tom68 Tom68 is offline
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Taller gearing means more idle to open throttle events, gear lower and keep the revs up, less transition, not that I've ridden one but.
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  #20  
Old 18-11-2017
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Check your throttle freeplay. I find too much freeplay gives a jerky feel to the on/off transition. It's purely personal preference but I run no measurable freeplay.

If you do reduce the freeplay please be sure to check that the revs don't rise when you turn the bars from lock to lock though. If they do rise you have the 'pull' cable under tension and need to back its adjustment off slightly.

It took me a bit of fiddling, with the dual cable, system to get it right but it was worth the time. Single cable is breeze by comparison.
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