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  #21  
Old 16-04-2018
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Pygmygod Pygmygod is offline
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Read this one hairy, think Nutty just scored another point over ya:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper

Says wet & dry is made of silicon carbide whereas sandpaper is made of aluminium oxide.

I guess, from Nutty's experience, one is easier to wash off than the other, hence advising us to use the yellow sandpaper which is usually used for wood.
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  #22  
Old 16-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hairyone View Post
So how about you quit belittling people & actually do contribute something.
You were one of those people of whom I had hoped would take an interest in this thread.
*I wasn't trying to belittle anyone, my apologies.

*Enlightening people to the effects of residual carborundum in motors qualifies as taking an interest in the welfare of others (and their bikes) IMO

*the reco industry ceased using carborundum for a good reason, hence diamond hones, etc.

*caborundum locks into the dendritic structure of alloys and stays there... You can't wash it out. Check out how 're-grip' (a mixture of carborundum and cubic zirconia) works.

*i was only trying to help the OP, I'm sick of this shit.
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  #23  
Old 16-04-2018
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slickncghia slickncghia is offline
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Getting a bit off topic.

Any thoughts on if it could be the semi synthetic oil I'm using? Husky recommend $104/4 litre fully synth magic juice. 10w60

As usual every one under the sun uses something different. And there's a million different opinions on oil

Being wet clutch shared oil with the engine.

Ordering new frictions steels and springs anyway
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  #24  
Old 16-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutty View Post
*I wasn't trying to belittle anyone, my apologies.

*Enlightening people to the effects of residual carborundum in motors qualifies as taking an interest in the welfare of others (and their bikes) IMO

*the reco industry ceased using carborundum for a good reason, hence diamond hones, etc.

*caborundum locks into the dendritic structure of alloys and stays there... You can't wash it out. Check out how 're-grip' (a mixture of carborundum and cubic zirconia) works.

*i was only trying to help the OP, I'm sick of this shit.
Thanks for the heads up about carborundum. I wasn't aware of this previously and it is obviously a big problem if you use it.
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  #25  
Old 16-04-2018
axel axel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craigy View Post
Thanks for the heads up about carborundum. I wasn't aware of this previously and it is obviously a big problem if you use it.
I learnted something today too. I'll never look at wet & dry the same again.
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  #26  
Old 16-04-2018
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quote=Pygmygod "Read this one hairy, think Nutty just scored another point'.
Yeah, ok then: I'll concede defeat: Just this once.. Until the/my next time...
I'm genuinely grateful to Nutty for enlightening us-all of past incompetence.
================================================== =====
All the clutch plates are the clutch plates for a reason.
ie. They all need to work and operate in unison as one.
If that isn't the case: Then one of them stuffs it all up.
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  #27  
Old 16-04-2018
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slickncghia slickncghia is offline
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minor update:

when riding the bike around the front yard annoying the neighbours the bike will push nicely in gear clutch in forwards and backwards.

but the second the bike stops the clutch seems to stick again. making it suuper hard to push (almost roll starting it) and impossible to start in gear with clutch in

so it is really leading me to believing is the clutch plates sticking together without the continuous oil flow. I know the pressure plate itself is still moving freely.

so ive ordered steels fibres and springs anyway. will chuck them in wed/thurs night after a soak in oil.

if that dosen't fix it. oil swap will be next.... but I'm kinda leaning that this wont be the issue if the clutch behaves well then the bike is running.

stand test is still showing: click into gear and wheel spinns. rear brake stall (breaks the friction) stops the rear wheel and the wheel wont start spinning again by itself.

more to follow later this week.

its been a few months since I've been riding but I'm not going crazy right... should be able to push a bike in gear with the clutch in... even if its a little bit more effort. and should be able to start a bike in gear with the clutch in (no electron switches or anything to stop this... it will start eventually with some throttle and a little bunny hop)

cheers
Ben
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  #28  
Old 18-04-2018
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slickncghia slickncghia is offline
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Bugger. It's not the frictions steels or springs.

Replaced them and if anything it's worse probably due to the increased friction In the new pads. Even after a brake stall on the stand the wheel will start spinning again now.
But again... When engine is running on the ground I can push the bike easy in gear.... But life rear and it starts spinning .turn off and it's super hard to Push

Tonight I'll pull it all appart again. Measure the pressure plate actuation and reinspect the basket and hub.

I'm steering away from thinking oil could have anything to do with this.

Super frustrating. Don't want to drop another couple hundred on a basket or hub and have the same problem still.
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  #29  
Old 18-04-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickncghia View Post
...
Super frustrating. Don't want to drop another couple hundred on a basket or hub and have the same problem still.
That's about all that is left. It's only money mate.
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  #30  
Old 05-06-2018
slurbike slurbike is offline
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Slickn, do you have any update?

Iíve got the same issue with my Ď09 te450. (Doesnít want to roll in 1st when off, doesnít want to start in gear, tends to stall easily in slow trail riding) so Iíd really like to hear if you found a solution!

Being new to dirtbikes I assumed the problem was with my clutch master/slave not pushing far enough to disengage the plates. I saw several other threads talking about the clutch push rod being worn down and people glueing spacers to it? I thought I might try it, but based on this thread I think that might be a false diagnosis.
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