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  #11  
Old 07-06-2017
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shawbagga shawbagga is offline
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AS3 do a white set for around $100 too. Ktm could of jacked prices so prepare yaself when asking prices!
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  #12  
Old 07-06-2017
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BIGBADAL BIGBADAL is offline
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What i have atarted doing is using sika to hold a rubber block like youd find in a window ( window spacer ) just before the chain slider , they're not cheap those bloody things and a little rubber block saves them heaps . Next I'm trying 10mm poly carb as a chain slider , we use this stuff for window replacement , is extremely strong but allows a degree of wear which should keep the chain happy also .
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  #13  
Old 08-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Ordered a TM design works rear guide (reasonable price). The slider itself doesn't look too bad and I'll run it a bit longer yet. The rubber has perished on the rollers, so need to decide if it's worth while going OEM or aftermarket.

Upper coolant hoses seem OK. The lower ones I think might need replacing. I'll worry about it when I get there. Shit load of work needed for it!

Anyone recommend a reasonably priced euro bolt kit (dimple bolts)? Everything I keep finding turns up later ktm/husky torque bit/8mm bolt heads.
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Spent a bit more time today pottering about. Still need to pull the rads. Anyone know how to unclip the hose clamps on the small line that runs through the frame? They are a crimp style, but not the same sort I've seen that you just pry undone.

Engine out and a nice stack of dirty parts waiting for some tlc.



Head stem bearings were nice and tight and in good condition, with lots of lube.


Last edited by Jakobi; 09-06-2017 at 05:55 PM.
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2017
Marty MOOSE Marty MOOSE is offline
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When you fix the piston band on the shock let me know
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  #16  
Old 08-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty MOOSE View Post
When you fix the piston band on the shock let me know
Stop making me spend more money Marty! I'm trying to stick to a budget!!

http://www.lt-racing.com/html/sachs_upgrades.html

I've been in a couple of different Sachs shocks, across a couple of models and brands. No two have been the same.

Problem being I have no ride time, and no feedback as to if this particular shock was/is prone to fading. It'll need a bump stop, so she'll get some fresh oil as well... speaking of which! Who the feck designs a shock so you need to remove the clevis in order to change a bump stop!! Sachs does! That's who.

Last edited by Jakobi; 08-06-2017 at 10:02 PM.
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Also need to have a good hard look and check the shaft for pitting. No sign of oil leaking so fingers crossed. 16mm or 18mm shaft on this one?? I'm guessing 16mm.
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  #18  
Old 09-06-2017
RMXhammy RMXhammy is offline
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A long way off, but here's some inspiration for you while you toil away Jakobi - not mine





PS - my suspension tuner warned me about those 50mm Zokes. Apparently a poor seal design and prone to leaking as soon as you turn your back on them. Hope yours are ok
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  #19  
Old 09-06-2017
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shawbagga shawbagga is offline
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Chain rollers just but some chinga ebay jobs or can get outlaw/all balls for about $15 each.

I asked Dave at susp matters a few years back about shock fade on the horizontal canister Sachs(2010+) & he reckons they were ok. Never had a drama with mine but the 300(vertical canister) I did. Don't know if it's the same shock as 250/300s?
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  #20  
Old 09-06-2017
Marty MOOSE Marty MOOSE is offline
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Tne clevis is easy to take off use a little heat. If you follow the manual you need to take it off to set the piston height now that's crazy.
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