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  #21  
Old 09-06-2017
Marty MOOSE Marty MOOSE is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawbagga View Post
Chain rollers just but some chinga ebay jobs or can get outlaw/all balls for about $15 each.

I asked Dave at susp matters a few years back about shock fade on the horizontal canister Sachs(2010+) & he reckons they were ok. Never had a drama with mine but the 300(vertical canister) I did. Don't know if it's the same shock as 250/300s?
Shawbagga how did you fix the shock that faded ? How come your not racing this year?
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  #22  
Old 09-06-2017
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shawbagga shawbagga is offline
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No rego on bikes anymore MM. Can't afford to really either financially & timewise. Just do all the ponies pretty much.

Not 100% as it was 3-4 odd years ago but from memory it was a bigger piston band to prevent oil bypass. LTR in the states do something similar & I think you can get a bladder kit for them also. Never had another issue with mine. Jakobi was actually last to service that shock when he put new seal head in it.

Really gotta get endurowetech to service both ends of each bike! $$$
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  #23  
Old 09-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Just need a larger expander o-ring behind the piston band on em. Can either step cut the stock one, or use a replacement teflon coated one as per LT link. Other popular option is to whack a gold valve on em.

I hope your shock has held up OK Shawry. Was a bit of fun and games getting it to have the same travel while using a taller SKF seal head designed for a Beta. Some Sachs use a plate, others use a top out spring. Some use a rebound check valve, others don't. 16mm shafts and 18mms. Parts are near impossible to find, and it's hard to know exactly what you'll have in a given shock until its apart.

I have had the clevis off many Marty, and agree it's not too bad. If you ever need to remove the travel restrictor plate or top out spring guide you'll want to cry!!
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  #24  
Old 10-06-2017
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shawbagga shawbagga is offline
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Touch wood shock has been great mate but tipping it's due another service after a further 100+ hours on it!
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  #25  
Old 11-06-2017
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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Gotta give credit where credit's due! Cheers shawbagga for helping out with all his sources and knowledge re known/common issues and where to get bits and pieces!

Much easier than trying to learn the quirks of a new brand as you go!

I'd give Lapper props too! But the bastard never replied to my PM.
Hey Jake looks like you 've landed a beauty.

A long way off yet but the needle I mention on PM was a Suzuki 6chy 16 - 62. Lots of posts about them Café Husky . The spare one I have is a little crooked though . I do have spare #4 slides but #5 is possibly the go . The theory was that they like to have more air to go with richer needle.
The standard CR needle is a stepped design - very thick at tip . You can also try the WR needle.
When you get it running Id just start with jetting that in it and see what you think but I didn't like the power delivery of the CR125 09 I had - it was lacking down low and came on aggressively but also not much up top . I think the needle and the short silencer had something to do with it
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  #26  
Old 11-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Cheers Lapper

I have a 38mm Smart Carb sitting on a shelf, which I may try and use. I could never get it running well in the Gassers, but might be nice on the little bike!

As per PM, key will be keeping dollars down in order to make this work.
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  #27  
Old 17-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Haven't had much time this week to make much progress. Have pulled the rads down a bit more. Gave the pipe a quick going over with the grinder/wirebrush attachment.

Not sure why the rad braces have fractured/cracked in so many places. I don't know if I'll bother replacing or not.

Removed the seized tank inserts/bolts. They have had red loctite on them.

Gave the shock a little wash. Still need to remove the spring and clean it back more and pull down for a new bump stop and to evaluate how they look internally.

Also looking into having the frame sandblasted and painted again in 2K white. Depend if I can line a mate up to run it through with some other bits for the right price.

While part of me wants to go crazy and bring her up to full restoration, the practical option is to spend as llittle as needed to get it running reliably and then thrash the shit out of it!
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  #28  
Old 17-06-2017
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FULLthrottle FULLthrottle is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Haven't had much time this week to make much progress. Have pulled the rads down a bit more. Gave the pipe a quick going over with the grinder/wirebrush attachment.

Not sure why the rad braces have fractured/cracked in so many places. I don't know if I'll bother replacing or not.

Removed the seized tank inserts/bolts. They have had red loctite on them.

Gave the shock a little wash. Still need to remove the spring and clean it back more and pull down for a new bump stop and to evaluate how they look internally.

Also looking into having the frame sandblasted and painted again in 2K white. Depend if I can line a mate up to run it through with some other bits for the right price.

While part of me wants to go crazy and bring her up to full restoration, the practical option is to spend as llittle as needed to get it running reliably and then thrash the shit out of it!

Yep do that
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  #29  
Old 20-06-2017
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The newer models had frame done in black - more practical and looks better IMO . Look at head if you want to get a bit more out of it .I think approx. .2mm shave is cheap option .
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  #30  
Old 20-06-2017
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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I've had the heads worked on my last couple 2Ts. Great bang for buck, and just makes them easier to live with in general.

I think I'll get the bare minimum done and slap her back together. Might just give the frame a good clean and leave it as is too.

The intake manifold needs to be replaced, and head stays need to be sourced. There are a few things I'll spend up on.

I intend to clean it up, put it back together and see how it runs. Then after a few hours spec the head up and drop a new slug in it.

Not sure if the APT SC will fit in the chassis or not. We'll see.
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