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  #11  
Old 18-12-2016
Beachy Beachy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewktm450 View Post
On the topic of Lithium Ion batteries, they do have a large negative if everything is not 100% with your bike
I fitted one onto my Sherco after the original lead acid battery died (9v) after nearly 5 years. I was chuffed with the life but thought the extra $'S for the substantial weight loss was worth it it. What Ididn't check was what my voltage regulator capped the charging voltage at. When it did check it, after the new battery was murdered, I found it topping out @ 16 volts. I suspect that 16 volts greatly contributed to the death of the original lead acid battery but it was 100% responsible for the murder of the new Lithium Ion battery 30 minutes into its first ride.
Smoke billowing out of the air box, battery so hot water sizzled on it & the battery itself melted into a deformed mess. We kept clear for a couple of minutes as there was a real risk of the bike catching fire.
My later discussion with the supplier of the battery left me feeling a bit miffed as they'd had several reports of these events from customers in the past & hadn't thought about issuing a warning to check your voltage regulator before going down the Lithium path. They stated "that was probably a good idea".
Bottom line suggestion - if your after out & out robust reliability for a battery, best to stick with a lead acid style. If your racing or prepared to accept some extra risk of failure then Lithium is for you.
That said, if it's a Jap voltage regulator, you can be 99% confident. If it's Italian, Mmmmmmmmmm. Let just say my Sherco is now sporting a lead acid battery & Yamaha regulator & tops out @ 14.8 volts when your ringing it's neck.
My lead/acid battery that you used when yours failed as never been the same.
Doesn't hold a charge and is slow when using the starter motor, especially when in gear. I now have to put it into neutral every time to start it.
I never have hit the button when cold either
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  #12  
Old 19-12-2016
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andrewktm450 andrewktm450 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachy View Post
My lead/acid battery that you used when yours failed as never been the same.
Doesn't hold a charge and is slow when using the starter motor, especially when in gear. I now have to put it into neutral every time to start it.
I never have hit the button when cold either
Beachy - send me the bill for a new battery. I'm sure my dodgy voltage regulator which murdered my original lead acid battery, then melted the replacement SSB Lithium Ion battery did the same thing to yours.
A problem shared is a problem doubled & it shouldn't be your problem. Alternatively, let me know the part number & I'll get a replacement for you.
Many thanks for your assistance. That's only one of many reasons I love riding with you!
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  #13  
Old 20-12-2016
Beachy Beachy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewktm450 View Post
Beachy - send me the bill for a new battery. I'm sure my dodgy voltage regulator which murdered my original lead acid battery, then melted the replacement SSB Lithium Ion battery did the same thing to yours.
A problem shared is a problem doubled & it shouldn't be your problem. Alternatively, let me know the part number & I'll get a replacement for you.
Many thanks for your assistance. That's only one of many reasons I love riding with you!
To be fair Andrew the battery is 5 years old and should be replaced any ways.

It's a MotoBatt which was purchased from the Dirt Bike Factory. It was the best battery I've ever had. Not as light as the new Li batteries but it just keeps cranking. I run a hard wired headlight, sometime on high beam and fan with a manual switch, which I sometimes forget to turn off.
I remember drowning my bike in "Body in Barrel" creek. After getting all the water out it just kept cranking until we diagnosed that the spark plug failed. New plug and she fired straight up
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  #14  
Old 20-12-2016
ChasM ChasM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutty View Post
Couple of things;

1) All late version lithium battery's will have a slight INTERNAL parasitic drain. This is because the discharge and charge control circuits are permanently connected to the battery internally. Only about 3/4 of a Li battery case is battery. The rest is electronics and safety void.

2) Li batterys can tolerate charge voltages up to about 16VDC. The incoming charge doesn't connect to the battery, it goes in through the batterys internal regulator circuits.

3) Output voltages from a bikes charging circuit are not tied to rpm. A 2T KTM makes @90VAC at 3000rpm. The rec/reg has plenty of spare headroom to make specified DC output almost from idle.

4) Most bike rec/regs are specced at 13.8VDC or 14.4VDC


It is common for Li batteries in dirt bikes to parasitically drain themselves over a week or two. As TMac said, the internal detection should open-circuit the output until a charging supply appears. Mine does this...After 10 minutes riding it's fine.


I have used several different brands of Li batteries for a number of years and find that they hold their charge much longer than lead acid batteries. I had to use battery tenders fairly often with lead acid batteries while my Li batteries rarely if ever require supplementary charging.

The Turn Tech Li battery in my KTM (HTR) 350 XCF-W is over 8 years old and still works like new. I have occasionally hooked it up to a battery tender when the voltage dropped down to 13.2 volts which was probably not even necessary.
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  #15  
Old 20-12-2016
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Nutty Nutty is offline
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The age of a Li battery isn't really a factor Chas, my bikes do about 150 hours per year, mostly Lead Rider, trail clearing and Sweeping. The bike would start about 50 times per ride I guess. That's about 2000 cycles per year and Li battery life is typically rated in # of cycles.

p.s. Any chance of me coming up to NorCal for a ride over (your) summer?
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