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  #11  
Old 11-05-2014
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http://www.enduroeng.com/storage/pdf...c23-LOWRES.pdf

Always a good guide and fairly easy to follow. You need to dedicate at least a day of testing your suspension. After this day of testing, I find it easy to work out what the clickers do, and what you may need for certain terrain.
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2014
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I find this link really useful in terms of dialling things in and fine tuning the balance as well

http://www.off-road.gr/article11.html
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2014
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Originally Posted by Dunny78 View Post
Can someone shed some basic light on rebound and compression high and low speed adjustments for me. I had the suspension serviced recently. The springs are right for my weight. Just need to understand what does what.
+1 for everything previously said. Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible contains some nice pic's and some useful info on set-up's etc.
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  #14  
Old 13-05-2014
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Great links, these are going to be printed out and taken with me next ride.. How important is the static sag measurement that is spoken about. I have my race sag already set so does the static sag have anything to do with this?
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  #15  
Old 14-05-2014
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Originally Posted by Dunny78 View Post
How important is the static sag measurement that is spoken about. I have my race sag already set so does the static sag have anything to do with this?
The rider sag is the most important one. Once the rider sag is set, you then measure the static sag to help determine if you have the correct spring fitted.

With your rider sag set to 100mm, the acceptable working range for static sag is 25mm-40mm, with 30-35mm being ideal.
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  #16  
Old 11-02-2015
steve 575 steve 575 is offline
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Hey guys,
I found this video and it was one of the few times suspension actually made sense to me. Hope it helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsx90eK5D28
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2015
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Originally Posted by steve 575 View Post
Hey guys,
I found this video and it was one of the few times suspension actually made sense to me. Hope it helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fsx90eK5D28
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2015
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I get how to use the HS/LS and comp/rebound. However preload on the KTM forks has always mystified me. Anyone care to share some knowledge on that front?
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  #19  
Old 26-02-2015
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Originally Posted by neevo View Post
I get how to use the HS/LS and comp/rebound. However preload on the KTM forks has always mystified me. Anyone care to share some knowledge on that front?
Neevo, the preload adjuster on the top of your fork is counted the opposite to all your clickers. So zero is all the way out.

In a stock fork, the fork springs normally have about 9mm of preload on them even with the adjuster all the way off. So don't think zero preload on the adjuster is zero on the springs.

On a stock fork, zero turns will provide a plusher ride but the forks can dive a little under brakes or on down hills, especially on a 4 stroke.

When setting up a fork, I normally try to only have a few mm's of preload on the spring and a couple of turns on the adjuster. This gives you the ability to tune the fork better with the adjuster.

Adding preload will help the forks ride higher in the stroke but the compromise is a reduction in plushness. So as a general rule, you will add preload to the forks if you ride sand, want to hit a grass or MX track, or if you have a large tank full of full. You will back the preload adjuster off if you are riding rocky, rooty or slippery muddy tracks.
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  #20  
Old 27-02-2015
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Thanks dwb, I have a few turns on them today which obviously is compounding my harshness issue as I need it to compensate for too softer springs.
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