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Old 1 Week Ago
mr bergman mr bergman is online now
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Beta enduro 2018 range: known issues & common problems

A big thanks to Beta dealers Jody South at Euro Enduro and Cameron Graham at 01Moto for help with this as I can't even tell the difference between a right-handed or left-handed screwdriver. Please advise if you've found other issues, easy fixes or if any of this info is inaccurate.



There are always guys who freak out and say "That bike sounds like a pile of shit, no way I'm buying that!" when they see a list of known issues. Well, don't watch the vid if you are a panic merchant. You can make a comprehensive list of small issues with any brand.

THINGS THEY'VE FIXED FOR 2018
Rear shock mudflap: this used to slowly wear away the swingarm, now it's reshaped to avoid this. If you have an earlier model just trim it to suit.

New gear selector: this has cured the occasional false neutrals, at least in my experience.

More flexible plastics?: These were very prone to cracking instead of bending in even small accidents or just leaning your fenders against a tree. It's early days, but our experience with the 2018 models suggests they finally got around to using the nice flexible materials everyone else uses.
Softer seat: After several years of riders saying Beta seats feel like slabs of concrete, the 2018 models finally have a softer foam.... good news if you do like to sit a lot.

Lighter clutch: One area we felt Beta let themselves down was the heavy clutch. It wasn't bad compared to say cable clutches, but by European standards it wasn't good. The 2018 model is a big improvement. We've done a vid on clutch mods if you have an earlier model: https://youtu.be/ydZyFR-iDWc

XTrainer inner tubes fixed? Another Xtrainer specific problem is up to 2017 at least the inner tubes have been known to split. There are no reported cases for 2018 yet so possibly they've changed to a better quality rubber.

THE PROBLEMS
Electrics: Europeans could still learn a lot from the Japanese about good electrics. It's a good idea to remove your headlight and fuel tank then use a pile of zip ties to get your wiring loom neat and not rubbing on anything. There is a critical electrical connection which is easily corroded and can shut down the oil injection system. Apparently it's been fixed for 2018, but some 2017 and all earlier models had the capacitor and diode block mounted upside down allowing water to enter heat shrink. The wires going into the magneto can be snagged by sticks when riding. On 2018 models these are secured better but still it can still happen. Also the positive wire from starter to the solenoid runs over the frame backbone above the rear shock. Reroute under the backbone to avoid the tank rubbing the wire... some dealers fix this in pre-delivery.

Plastic cogs for 4T oil pump: The four stroke models still use plastic cogs for the oil pump. These need to be replaced every 100 hours but most riders agree it would just be easier to make these steel. You can buy aftermarket steel cogs from Boano in Italy.

Too much glycol in coolant: The standard coolant appears to have too high a glycol content which can affect rubbers seals and lead to leaks such as the o-rings in two strokes. Drain and mix at something something between a 50:50 or 70:30 mix.

The two stroke oil injection system: this works great for most riders, however there's a small but noticeable number of issues with bikes running too rich and fouling plugs. This is because the system defaults to something around 20:1 to avoid any engine seizures but of course it can foul plugs. Apparently the majority of cases are debris left in the system at the factory and a bit of carb cleaner will fix it. But if you can get some compressed air through it will be even better. Remember to always top up your oil. If your system stuffs up and defaults to the very rich mix it could be possible to drain your oil tank on a long ride if it wasn't full. Some riders are simply removing the system with parts from Beta that cost around $70.

Pointy sidestand: A small but persistent problem is that pointy-ended sidestand that just sinks into soft ground. The crazy thing is the 2012 sidestand base was double the size and worked great. Why did Beta go back to the chopstick design. Who knows. A very simple fix but they've been ignoring complaints for years now.

Muffler/expansion chamber seal: The 2015 two strokes often sprayed black gunk over the engine due to a dicky rubber seal between the muffler and expansion chamber. It was meant to be fixed but it's still happening on some 2018 models. Ask me how I know. Easily fixed with some zip ties but hopefully they'll get it right next year.

Carb issues: Beta use the same very reliable carb KTM dropped recently. The only issue is they tend to overflow so easily will only a mild tilt of the bike. This is more an issue with the carb manufacturer as Gas Gas and earlier KTMs all had the same issue pop up.The seam of the float should be aligned with the carb base just as the needle is actuated. This gives a dribble of fuel at about a 45 degree lean angle... but also see Nutty's next post below for more info.

Carb vents? The two coming out horizontally are fine but the other two point up and loop over the carb. These need to go into the airbox as they can cause problems when you through deep water crossings. On the four strokes do the same with the gearbox breather hose. While we are discussing breather hoses, a small number of riders report their engine breather hoses have come off, just zip tie them into place.

And before you put your zip ties away, put one on your carb if you have a Xtrainer. The rubber water seal for the throttle cable can be dislodged and will hang up on top of the carb throttle neck and cause high idle speeds. Cable tie the rubber boot at both ends.

Seat fabric: If you thought the seat fabric on KTMs was thin and ripped easily, the Betas are even worse. Sometimes the fabric seems to rip even without any accident or impact, and you can't buy a replacment one. However there's a gripper seat cover that is much heavier duty. And grippier... surprise surpise.

Lithium batteries in cold weather: All the 2018 models have lithium batteries which don't like cold weather. Use a short stab of the starter button to first warm up the battery so it can deliver the power needed for starting. This is NOT a Beta-specific problem, just lithium batteries in general.

XTrainer radiator hose rubbing?: With the XTrainer, the thermostat housing can rub on the left hand radiator if it wasn't positioned carefully in the factory. Loosen off the cylinder head coolant hose and left hand radiator lower hose and twist gently. Remember to check all your hose clamps too, some aren't done up very tightly at the factory.

Weak chain guide: If you are into hard terrain then the lower chain guide is flimsier than most and it could pay to fit a sturdy aftermarket one. Tim Coleman discovered this the hard way in the Sea to Sky Prolog unfortunately.

Air filter alignment: Take care lining up the air filter and double check looking down through the intake with a flashlight. It can look snug and secure but not be fitted properly. This especially applies with the XTrainer where the airbox is even more cramped for your fingers.

Front fork tube coating??? I haven't come across this issue in Australia yet. A reported issue is the hard coating on the inside of the outer tube wears out prematurely and contaminates the oil. Fixed for 2018? I don't know... See this thread for more info: http://www.betarider.org/forum/viewt...hp?f=17&t=2071

If you guys have more comments please add them in the comments. I'll be posting this on a few forums so I can update those posts with your info.
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Nutty Nutty is offline
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Good write up Baz. Nothing earth-shattering in there that doesn't apply to most every brand. Your seat appraisal is just personal opinion IMO, I prefer the older hardness and I have an old, bony, skinny arse.

Also: re PWK-AGs carbs, the float setting you've outlined is 2-2:5mm higher than Keihins spec for that carb. It'll run-on downhill as the slosh richens up the pilot circuit. Use the Keihin float-setting tool or hold the carb body vertical and ensure the fuel supply cuts off as the float-seams approach horizontal. The needle-seat should be closed if the float-seam is level.

That higher float height will also result in too-lean PJ and jet-needle-straight settings.
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mr bergman mr bergman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nutty View Post
Good write up Baz. Nothing earth-shattering in there that doesn't apply to most every brand. Your seat appraisal is just personal opinion IMO, I prefer the older hardness and I have an old, bony, skinny arse. ......
.
Likewise Nutty, I've never had issues with firm seats but so many guys complain I figured I better include it. It ain't a dual sport bike so you shouldn't be sitting all that often.
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michaelf michaelf is offline
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You know the thing that annoyed me the most was the sloppy rear brake clevis, fitted an incredibly overpriced fasst component and all good.

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