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  #21  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
That's it H1! It all depends on perspective. The suspension as a whole becomes dependent on position. You have bottoming cones, spring rates (how far it has been compressed), air springs based on fluid volume, friction and flexion, etc.

The damping/valving is mostly based around shaft speeds and displacement.. But then you also have some variances and impact in regards to cavitation and internal pressures (ICS/bladder).
HIGHJACK!!!
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  #22  
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HIGHJACK!!!
Sure is!!


...at least it's still somewhat related.. kind of!

So you throwing the other springs in DB? You could try one each leg for an average between the two.
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  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Sure is!!


...at least it's still somewhat related.. kind of!

So you throwing the other springs in DB? You could try one each leg for an average between the two.
Already done. My vision is still blurry & fillings have fallen out after yesterdays beating. Give it another run next weekend.
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  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Sure is!!


...at least it's still somewhat related.. kind of!

So you throwing the other springs in DB? You could try one each leg for an average between the two.
I'll give that a try next.
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  #25  
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Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
90kg rider no gear.
.40 springs (RT recommended)Have a set of .44 or .45 (Technik recommended) if needed.
If I put your bike and weight into the RT website, it suggests 0.46kg/mm fork springs. I often think that the RT website is suggesting spring rates higher than I am comfortable with. My original recommendation of 0.44 reflects this.



Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
Understeer was scary & front was way to stiffly sprung.
I'm going to disagree. I dont think you are overly sprung. If the forks are too stiff with 0.44 springs, then its a valving problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
Gold valves
24 .10 x 7 Remove 4
16 .10
24 .10
22 .10
18 .10
16 .10
14 .10
13 .10
12 .10
11 .10
10 .10 Remove
I would start by removing some of the low speed shims on the BV.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
Took it out to QMP & it was awful. It had a set of new tyres (goldentyres) 90/90 fatty up front.
QMP is always awful

Those fatty front tyres raise the front of the bike and change the geometry and therefore how the bike steers. To counter this, you need to raise the forks in the clamps.
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Originally Posted by dwb79 View Post
If I put your bike and weight into the RT website, it suggests 0.46kg/mm fork springs. I often think that the RT website is suggesting spring rates higher than I am comfortable with. My original recommendation of 0.44 reflects this.





I'm going to disagree. I dont think you are overly sprung. If the forks are too stiff with 0.44 springs, then its a valving problem.



I would start by removing some of the low speed shims on the BV.




QMP is always awful

Those fatty front tyres raise the front of the bike and change the geometry and therefore how the bike steers. To counter this, you need to raise the forks in the clamps.
Beautiful. Will swap that out
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  #27  
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You can make base valve changes at the track....just put a tie down through the front hub and around the lower triple, compress the forks, lay your bike over on it's side, lift the front wheel up onto the tail gate of your ute and pull the base valves out. Oil will stay in the forks even at 20 degrees past horizontal.

Swap shims around and go nuts. Try a single stage stack and some two stage stacks......the more you try, the more you learn.

The 2005 bikes had way too much HS damping. Getting rid of some 24's on the base is a good start but ultimately you will end up in the mid valve.

I have some stacks somewhere from back in the day on an old USB, will try and dig them up BUT it always gets down to what suits you.
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  #28  
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And I would agree at .44 springs with oil at 110-120mm as starting point assuming you are not hucking the thing to flat landings on a regular basis.
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  #29  
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And I would agree at .44 springs with oil at 110-120mm as starting point assuming you are not hucking the thing to flat landings on a regular basis.
Its my single track rocks, logs & roots bike for the snotty shit not really travelling fast except transport sections on wider trails.
I'm old & only like leaving the ground in an aircraft . My WR is my "trail" bike.

Would appreciate those stacks if you can find them. cheers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJW View Post
And I would agree at .44 springs with oil at 110-120mm as starting point assuming you are not hucking the thing to flat landings on a regular basis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtboy View Post
Its my single track rocks, logs & roots bike for the snotty shit not really travelling fast except transport sections on wider trails.
Below is a general rule in suspension tuning.

Springs for weight.
Select spring rates to hold the bike in the correct part of the stroke. Bike weight, bike modifications, bike use, rider weight & rider height are the main considerations to help choose a spring. To a lesser extent, riding terrain can influence spring rates.

Damping for everything else.
Damping is used to control spring/chassis movement. Riding ability, speed, preference to feel, terrain and spring rates are used to determine appropriate damping levels.


So currently you have RT saying 0.46, while Teknik, myself and JJW saying 0.44kg/mm. Personally I think these will be a good balance to the P20 in the rear.

So using our "general" rule above, if the forks feel too firm with the 0.44kg fork springs, its more than likely you have a valving problem. This could be an excess or a lack of damping that is making it feel to harsh.
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