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  #1  
Old 04-12-2011
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disco disco is offline
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CRF250X Ultimate setups

So here's our version of a "what did you do to your XXXX today". Let's start out with a baseline of what you're up to at present.

Here's mine...


[HANDLING]

*Triples - 22mm ProTaper Accutrax with (soft) Blue shock absorbing elastomers low torque (All the honda's went to 22mm offset in 2008 with the HPSD.. except for the 250X which stayed at 24mm) cost $240 but hard to get at that price now.

*Rear axle positioning - At the most forward position. Will alter gearing if necessary.

*Forks up 10mm, extra 8mm added to rear sag (113ish) for extra squatting, lower seat height

(I've run scotts, RTT, Ohlins and Werr steering dampers on them in the past, but they don't really need them if you set your clickers right and line up your front end)

[ERGONOMICS]

*R Tank (narrower and lower) - ebay wreckers.

*Fastway pegs, in low boy position (alot lower than pivots in lowmount pos)

*KTM Handlebars (neutral and low)

*Bar mounts in 3rd position from rear (direct feeling, less arm pump, bit roomier - not possible with standard honda triples).

*Slightly taller seat padding to allow getting forward

[SUSPENSION]

*Stock valving. Stock springs. Forks 8out Rebound, 15out compression. Shock standardish. My weight - 80kg. Feels alot stiffer than stock, but still compliant enough and front sticks like glue. (much harder to crash than stock!) Helps to replace stock fork oil before going this harsh. Valving has been the same since 2006.

[ENGINE]

*08R head for more midrange power so that it doesn't sign off as quick. Ports are more of a square shape instead of oval.

*Wossner 13.5 (not compeltely tested.. but with my valves JE 13.2 was maybe a fraction too low and 13.7 was a bit too high). - cheap on ebay. Ring end gap was still as new after 100 hours on the last JE - hoping for same from wossner.

*Excyldene valves. (Complete R head and full excyldene valve train $900 from fastheads.com). Yet to see them move. Ran faction but only lasted 200 hours. $160 fix... or $110 for ProX stainless kit. (Seat cut $80, headgasket $25). Running SS retainers, but want to change back to Ti.

*Waiting to install R flywheel for more snap - ebay wrecker.

(Also tried 05R cam, 08R cam, Hotcam S1).

[EXHAUST]

*FMF Q4 with spark arrestor. (But I'll probably try the Lexx next. (cheap, tuneable and does the job). Standard header with heat sheild. Seems about right.

(Have to remember to keep cleaning out the spark arrestor as it blocks up).

[JETTING AND AIRBOX]

*NKKT standard needle. Tried JD got shocking fuel consumption. 155 main jet. Adjustably fuel screw. 42 Pilot.

*Air box - standard if possible. Gets you longer filter life. If you go for bigger aftermarket filter, may need to cut the airbox. It's not a top end cam, and it's only a 250F, so I don't find it needs as much air as a falcon.

*Running tank foam.. mainly because it was already in the tank i got off ebay. Discernable difference, not night and day.

(Also tried 40mm carb, JD jetting and 05R honda needle range and adjustable leak jet)

[CLUTCH]

*Rekluse Pro, for one finger leaver pull. Wouldn't mind trying EXP 2.0 for less flywheel effect.

[TYRES]

*FRONT: Pirelli MXMS 80/100 9 psi. Bridg HD tube.
*REAR :Bridg 404 rear 9psi, 110/18. Moving to Bridg HD instead of UDH to save 1kg

(bigger rear sucks power- helps to have engine mods to keep the rear spinnable)

[ELECTRICAL]

*Lithium-ion batt - saves 1.8kg

*Stripped off complete piggy back ADR loom (only takes a few minutes to get back to full comp spec - Starter button, killswitch, headlight, tailight).

*Pink wire mod... not sure if it really does much.

[PROTECTION]

*Force full bashy and rad gaurds. Going to swap to plastic aceribics or hyde bashy I think though to save weight.

*No hard gaurds, just bar ends and loose levers.

*Might replace the stock super heavy side stand with simple alloy one.

[DRIVE AND BRAKES]

*Primary drivealloy rear sprocket

*Going to try Renthal comp chain, to save weight and drag of big X ring. (Using cheap PD at the mo).

*Rear rotor is 07 round drilled disc (not wave 08+) to save on pads. Alot lighter than solid rear rotor though.

*Generally run 14/53 for useable top on slight inclines. But as mentioned will adjust to get rear axle against the blocks for sharpest handling.

*Radiator overflow is left in place.. really doesn't weight that much for peice of mind. 13.5 piston is hard to overheat, but still doable. R radiators might be lighter but haven't tested yet.


NOTES :

Mods mainly aimed at ergo's and sharpening up the handling and getting weight forward. Engine wise just needs a bit of a midrange boost so it likes to rev more, esp with bigger tyre. Going really rich and opening up the flow too much on intake an exhaust in my opinion just makes the sign off more noteicable to me so i try to run the intake and zorst pretty tight.

Mostly do technical and hardpack riding. This is definately not a woops setup.
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Last edited by disco; 04-12-2011 at 08:02 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-12-2011
joe dirt's Avatar
joe dirt joe dirt is online now
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I have the same tank,seat+pegs as you(thanks to your advice)and dont think i would enjoy riding the stock setup ever again,so i would agree this is the ultimate setup.

I would say my front brake is also the"ultimate setup"
Oversize wave disc kit,Bendix pads+ a Goodridge braided line.
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  #3  
Old 04-12-2011
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NSE.ONE NSE.ONE is offline
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Lower seat height and Slightly taller seat padding to allow getting forward
dosnt make sense

You forgot your Postie clutch and Mental Mulisha stickers
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  #4  
Old 04-12-2011
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Krackers Krackers is offline
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[HANDLING]

*Stock everything. Works fine for me.

*Rear axle positioning - wherever it needs to be so chain isn't floggin' around.

*Forks flush with triples.

(I've never run scotts, RTT, Ohlins and Werr steering dampeningers in the past, but I should try them all and waste a shitload of money in order to go back to stock)

[ERGONOMICS]

*X Tank (better at knackering you)
*Fastway pegs, in low boy position (definitely worth the coin, stock are very small)

*Stock TAG Handlebars (they fucking suck)

*Slightly radder seat cover than standard, allows people to say, "Hey, how much did you pay for that?" and me to reply, "Yeah, $27 including the sticker kit" and then they say, "Fuck, that was cheap!" and me then going, "Yeah, it was"

[SUSPENSION]

*Stock valving. Stock springs. Forks Chad did the clickerticlackers. Shock standardish. My weight - 85kg. My **** feels alot stiffer than stock, but still compliant enough and shoots stuff like glue.

[ENGINE]

*stock head with SS valves. Been good so far.

*JE 13.something piston. Noticeably better than stock piston.

*Waiting for Jesus to burn my petrol with his Jesus fire.

(Also tried Budha, Satan, Allah & Tom Cruises' mob)

[EXHAUST]

*LEXX sex.
(Have to remember to keep sticking my **** in it).

[JETTING AND AIRBOX]

*NVVT standard needle. 155 main jet. Fuel screw needs to come out a little more I reckon. 42 Pilot.

*Air box - cut out extreme hard core. Gets you more air + more petrol = more power.

*No tank foam. Tried whipped cream, stuck with jizz.

(Also tried sybian, scat and shelving, apparently out of context)

[CLUTCH]

*Stock and like new after 6000kms or so..

[TYRES]

*FRONT: 403 Bridgy 80/21 HD tube
*REAR :404 rear 110/18. UHD tube (keeps the slipped discs in check)


[ELECTRICAL]

*I-pod dock and sub woofer

*Broken key in barrel, helped a 14 yo to steal my bike without too much trouble.

*Pink wire mod... not sure if it really does much. True that one. I still can't find the limiter!

[PROTECTION]

*Force full bashy and rad gaurds. Going to stay with these cause if I ever lose them my sponsors just give me new ones.

*Stock bark busters. They bust bark.

*I replaced the stock super heavy side stand with simple alloy one. And, it's ace!

[DRIVE AND BRAKES]

*Primary driveSTEEL rear sprocket. Almost did my back lifting the *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&ing rear wheel onto the bench tonight to change wheel bearing.

*Going to try ALLOY set next.

*Rear rotor is solid and heavy. BUT, a heavy rear wheel means the bike is harder to ride!

*Generally run 14/53 because that's what the cheap PD kits come with.

*Radiator overflow is left in place.. I like the green colour it adds to the overall pink colour of these bikes. Bought some R radiators but sold em for crack.


NOTES :

My bike is *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&en sick as aye. I like it and it's awesome to ride. I don't know why anyone would even think they'd find a better bike for the kind of riding we do.
Mostly do technical and mud riding and low speed no track. My bike smashes whoops.
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  #5  
Old 04-12-2011
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disco disco is offline
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$27 bucks... that's seriously *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&'n cheap eh

What sidestand is it ? promotobillet ? was trying to find it today. Might try a promototree to lean it against.

One other thing, I'm gonna ditch this massive block of a silver front wheel spacer for the simple R alloy collar that weighs 20kg less.

What oversize disc kit did you go with Joe ?
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  #6  
Old 04-12-2011
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pesky pesky is offline
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Jeeeeezeus...Your making your bike lighter.... that means















Your just going to get faster
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I was amazed at the 350 though. It doesn't have the power of a 450 but has more than a 250, so it was just like riding a bike in between the two, wow.
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  #7  
Old 04-12-2011
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Krackers Krackers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco View Post
$27 bucks... that's seriously *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&'n cheap eh

What sidestand is it ? promotobillet ? was trying to find it today. Might try a promototree to lean it against.

One other thing, I'm gonna ditch this massive block of a silver front wheel spacer for the simple R alloy collar that weighs 20kg less.

What oversize disc kit did you go with Joe ?
Trailtech aye cuzzy bruss..
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  #8  
Old 05-12-2011
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joe dirt joe dirt is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco View Post
$27 bucks... that's seriously *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&'n cheap eh

What sidestand is it ? promotobillet ? was trying to find it today. Might try a promototree to lean it against.

One other thing, I'm gonna ditch this massive block of a silver front wheel spacer for the simple R alloy collar that weighs 20kg less.

What oversize disc kit did you go with Joe ?
It's 270mm full floater, didn't have a brand name on it,i got it from E-bay seller XTREME POWERSPORTS for $140 delivered.
Its done about 60hrs and is holding up well.
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2011
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nawill nawill is offline
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good thread Disco!
I have 2011 250X with 0hrs on it in the shed, still setting it up, just sold an 08 250X with close to 200 hrs on it.

engine
*still stock for now....will be getting 08/09R head with excyldene Vv's
I had kibblewhite SS valves in the stock head on my 08, but i did find it held it back a little when racing grasstrack etc.
*I have a JD jetting kit, but might not bother with it for now, i had good results with the NKKT needle...42pilot, and 153MJ i think
*I wil get another JE 13.2:1 piston...i had good results with that
*i would like to try a hotcam S1

Exhaust
*FMF megabomb header and Q4 muffler
i have had a pro-circuit T4...too loud, even with the quiet insert, also had a Leo Vince X3, it worked well.

Suspension
i weigh 85kg.
i found the stock springs OK for trail riding, but it wallowed around low in the stroke when pushed hard.
*i have 5.4 rear and .45 fork springs and itholds up really well, i tried .47 fork springs, but found the front riding too high.
100mm rider sag, 27mm static.
even with the stiffer springs i found the stock valving blows through the stroke in whoops gouts etc.
*G2R valves fixed the blowing through the stroke, set up with help from dwb79 SUSPENSION MATTERS.
also Dave will be doing some machining and a revalve of the shock and rebound seperation valve added...

Handling
*similar to Disco, Pro Taper 22mm triples
but i run my forks flush, i guess having 100mm sag means i don need to drop them.
never felt the need to try a dampener...might one day when i have a spare $500!

ergo's
*R tank
*i have a Guts racing tall seat foam that i have cut down to standard height, but left it so it is flat from the rear gaurd to the tank...i dont like the dip in the stock seat foam.
*I have fastway pegs...hated them in lowboy position, they kept catching in ruts etc. I am going to stick with the stock pegs for a little while on the new bike
*I have some renthal fatbars, and some "wyndham" pro tapers, but am going to try some different ones, i am still not 100% happy...the stock TAG bars are crap!

protection
*i have BB bashplate, Barkbusters and rad gaurds, but am going to go for the Acerbis plastic bash and KTM handgaurds.

other mods
*I have gone the full chop of my airbox....i found that it helps to spread the dirt across the whole filter, rather than clogging the top of the filter while the bottom is still clean.
*pink wire mod....i dunno how much diff this makes, but the price is right!
*Magura hydraulic clutch...still in the process of fitting this
*Wiring...i fitted the comp. harness last night and weighed the ADR loom with the indicators, taillight, key ignition etc. all on it and it is just over 1kg of crap!
*I have removed the coolant catch tank (.5kg)
*removed hot start and replaced it with a button, and re-routing/modifying the engine breathers to unclutter the frame.
*change the Honda kill/start buttons as they are massive bulky peices of shit
* i run 13/49 or 50 gearing....much less busy in 234 gears, holds a gear longer on corner exit. It still pulls 5th with no real problems
*I haver been using 110/100 tyres, but will be going back to 100/100 to get better response.
*I tried a solid rear disc, but found only slightly better pad life, but the disc is ridiculously heavy!
*i tried a Ballards light pull clutch, i liked it....if the magura hydro unit does not work out i will put it back on.
*Ballistic Evo2 4cell li-ion battery

long list, but i think that is about it....
I have found the 250X to be a top notch platform, needs some mods but it is so cheap to buy, and the mods are so cheap too


I really like this bike.....even with all these mods, it still comes in cheaper than a KTM or Berg...the volume and price of parts available form the US is awesome!
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2011
cowpat cowpat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nawill View Post
....if the magura hydro unit does not work out i will put it back on.
I have a Magura clutch on mine and am happy with it. Always smooth and never needs adjusting. Lever force is about the same. I do need to pull it all the way in to fully disengage - which means occasionally stalling if I'm sloppy with it. It could be adjusted further out but that is a compromise I make. If I had smaller hands it might be an issue.

As supplied the hose on the slave cylinder is angled towards the right of the bike, to follow the original clutch cable routing near the exhaust pipe. On TT there are some war stories about melted Magura clutch lines. I loosened the banjo bolt a little and turned it the other way and routed the hose on the left side of the bike well away from the exhaust.
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