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  #1  
Old 18-01-2012
f3rg's Avatar
f3rg f3rg is offline
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CRF450X Ultimate setups

In the tradition of Disco's thread I thought we could have one for the 450x.. I haven't done any mods to mine yet. I'm currently looking into the jetting, airbox mods and exhaust etc.. I thought this thread could benefit all new owners and people looking to get the most out of their 450X

[HANDLING]

[ERGONOMICS]

[SUSPENSION]

[ENGINE]

[EXHAUST]

[JETTING AND AIRBOX]

[CLUTCH]

[TYRES]

[ELECTRICAL]

[PROTECTION]

[DRIVE AND BRAKES]
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  #2  
Old 18-01-2012
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geoffyboy geoffyboy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rideo View Post
Good idea, i've been wanting to do a '12 mths living with the 450x' since before someone else did one recently for some other species of bike.
I will come back later after i collect my thoughts on it and edit this post.

Before i go though, anyone else have an issue with tearing off side knobs from the rear tyre with the chain?
The 450x setup guide is a good idea.
I would be keen to see that.

No.

I'm running a normal (not thin) chain too.

I do have a small amount of rubbing on the shock guard.
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  #3  
Old 18-01-2012
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Pigdog Pigdog is offline
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I rip knobs off, and shock flaps, GHR cut the flaps and knobs as far as I know. I run Bridgy 404s, so I don't know how wider tyres fair. Dunno what it is.

I have a whole spreadsheet of things I have done, gotta work out how to copy and paste it into here.
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  #4  
Old 18-01-2012
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brendo_83 brendo_83 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigdog View Post
I rip knobs off, and shock flaps
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  #5  
Old 18-01-2012
rideo rideo is offline
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In no particular order here are most of the 'issues' i have had to deal with in the last 15 mths and 4000kms, if the OP feels this isn't in the right format for this thread let me know and i will piss it off into its own thread:

Bike was purchased at 500kms old with a lot of mods already done
Mods:
Procircuit T4 muffler
Fatbars
Some fancy levers
Fork bleeders
3.2 gn IMS tank
Pivot pegs
Seat tug strap
Chain/tyre guard
Airbox modded, presumably carb rejetted
BB's rad guards all the usual shit for protection
Resprung to suit 115kg of me+ gear
MSR rear disc guard


Swingarm slider had to be replaced at 900?kms, it had worn thru underneath and the chain had cut thru until it reached the casing inside the needle bearings, previous owner did a lot of mx with it so i presume it was from a heap of bottoming out consistently at the Canberra mx track as the replacement one is showing minimal wear since fitted

Rear shock guard didn't last much more than 1500kms, the new red one is doing well thanks to the chain guard, only wear to it is from when i haven't had a guard in place.

Springs [f&r] were uprated with Eibachs to suit my weight and has made it the best handling bike i've owned, despite its 140kg+ weight.

Forks needed bushes at the last oil change at about 3300kms.

The alloy bolts that hold the sidecovers on are phucking useless, piss them off before they round over and replace them with regular bolts.

I've busted 2 rear spokes recently, rumor has it once they start to go they all go so i'm waiting on rmatv to notify me of more stock of the hd ss spokes they have for $60 per wheel. Strangely enough seeing as i bought 2 oem spokes as spares for the xmas break i haven't had any more break on me...

The wiring loom is a pos that must've cost Honda Aust. about $6.75, as such it breaks real easily and can cost you a working speedo amongst other issues.

Lower shock mount is a highly stressed unit that gets fug all grease from the factory, lube it regularly.

Valves went sth at 2700kms, replaced with oem inc. piston.

Chainset at same time as top end, replaced with another narrow chain, not liking this narrow concept adjusting it near every ride is piss poor imo. [chain etc is all good quality]

As mentioned the chain tears knobs off the side of the tyre [usually a 110-100-18, 120 is worse], it flogs the chain out and obviously fks the tyre.
I'm now using Mk3 of a fix i designed, nutserts have been fitted to the swingarm for some decent thread and unit is now also siliconed in place, i have 100% confidence in this now
450X chain guard pics 012.jpg

450X chain guard pics 013.jpg

450X chain guard pics 014.jpg

450X chain guard pics 015.jpg

This tyre^^^ has been on since my 3 day Dargo ride back late last year, the guard i had on then got torn off on day one and the tyre copped it, since then i have modded some things to fix it once and for all.
Reckon i've got a few more rides in that tyre yet, if ya aint sliding ya aint having enough fun.


Rear guard extension...i had to re-route the wiring to this carefully to stop the rear tyre from continually tearing it apart when bottomed out, not a biggie but it had to be done to preserve the rear tail light functionality.

Front brake adr banjo fitting: this thing points the wiring back towards your knee, as such it can get torn out/the wires can bust, there's no real fix [besides removal] apart from careful positioning and being careful not to hit it with ya knee [i'm 6'3'' so have gangly legs]

Airfilter removal/install: it's a bitch and there's no mod afaik, only thing i've found that helps a lot is to remove the seat to give more access.

Rear disc guard didn't last long before it and one of the mount tabs disappeared [i actually found it on a later ride] so i have replaced it with an axle mounted MSR guard from rmatv, i have also hand made an alloy caliper guard to the same shape as the plastic oem unit.

Even if you don't run a chain guard like me, it pays to silicone over the head of the rear chain slider mounting bolt as the chain flogs it to death and that makes removal very hard if you can't get an allen key into it [the silicone tears out easily enough when you need it to]

Not a huge amount of issues by any stretch of the imagination, this is a great bike that goes well/handles well and would be a keeper for life if it had a 6th cog and didn't weigh something like a DRZ650 as i find it tiring in tight s/t.

I will add more as i remember it.

Another thing, the small bolt out of the 2 that hold the l/h footpeg mount to the bike went for a walk, it would pay to locktite the pair of them.
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Last edited by rideo; 21-01-2012 at 05:54 PM. Reason: added already
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  #6  
Old 18-01-2012
Al.C Al.C is offline
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What I run

Bike - Year 2008, purchased new Jul 2008 current Km 11900 (minimal black stuff), Full rego. Mainly ridden in NE Vic / Vic high country, regularly done multi day rides of 1000km plus.


HANDLING - After the XR, chalk and cheese very happy. Have not played with the steering dampener still at factory setting.

ERGONOMICS - Have rotated the bars forward slightly to open up the bike when standing and removed all of the stuff that would get ripped off in the bush. Other stuff I?ve done that doesn?t fit else where. As the bike had such a small tank and I ride the high country regularly I have fitted a 21 lt Safari Tank, it looks huge but I rarely fill it. I generally only put 10 ? 12 lts in it, after 10 minutes you don?t know its there. Also run Pivot Pegz Mk II. These are great.

SUSPENSION - Front heavier springs (Eiback 0.48) 5 wt oil in cartridges and 10 wt oil 375 mls, in the outer legs, I run the forks 6 ml high in the triple clamps. I found that this settled down some head shake I had. Rear standard with standard sag setting.

ENGINE - replaced L/H inlet valve at 3543 km, Head sent to Wideline Engineering for Stainless valve kit at 5308 km, New Wiseco piston and rings at 8862 km to freshen up. Ring gap was still within specks and the bore was in good condition. 11500 km valve gap still within specs.

EXHAUST - Pro Circuit 496 muffler with modified outlet tip. Was sound tested at 98 Db so I modified the outlet, it is now (have had it sound tested by DSE) under 91 DB

JETTING AND AIRBOX - Main Jet # 162 and Idle # 45, air box it's a bucket, no top. Run 3 air cleaners 1 x standard, 2 x twin air change after each ride.

CLUTCH - standard

TYRES - Fronts have use Dunlop 956?s and Geomax MX 51?s and Kenda Washoogals, no major issues with any. Rear have used Recross retreads (intermediate) Dunlop Geomax MX 51?s and 71?s and Kenda Carlsbad and Washoogal, no issues with any. although I mainly ride NE Vic (high country) which is generally fairly hard on tyres, the Yack Charity bash is the greasiest it gets and a new tyres generally get you through.

ELECTRICAL - Still run indicators and their still on the bike run mini rears and fronts, have modified the wiring loom under the rear guard with 5 core trailer wire, haven't had a broken wire since done.

Pink Wire mod, not sure what it does but I think it makes a differance.

PROTECTION - Whipps bash plate, my own rear disk protector, Force radiator guards part of the tank upgrade, Bark Busters standard.

DRIVE AND BRAKES - 13T front ? 49T rear standard narrow chain. Have some wear on the rear spring guard but don?t seem to damage tyres. Run T.M designworks chain slider and guide. Braided front brake line (manufactured locally for $ 80), disks rear standard, Front oversized disk, this is a mod that should be done what a differance.

Improvements - would love a 6 speed box, Fuel injection? Still waiting! Weight a little lighter in the tight stuff would be good

Over all - would I have another YES. Very happy with this bike and will buy another. Waiting on Fuel injection but thinking when it does, a current run out would be good value with the spares I have.

Last edited by Al.C; 02-04-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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  #7  
Old 19-01-2012
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mollystaff mollystaff is offline
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CBF'd doing much to my bikes, just the basics and ride, then change over every 2-3 years.

3rd 450X 1n 5 years 2007 = 9000k's, 2008 = 6000k's, now 2010 model = 1000k's, never had to do any kind of engine work.

Airbox stock - I don't believe cutting it open and exposing it to more dust will make much difference and it certainly won't make me any faster.

Run valve saver in fuel

Bash plate, rad guards and alloy rear disk guard

Braided front brake line

Scotts steering damper - HPSD removed

Fast boy fender bag

Soon to replace 2010 tail light setup as I keep snapping no. plates off.
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  #8  
Old 21-01-2012
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Booway Booway is offline
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COMPLETLEY STOCK mine is. Bought new in 08 , only 3,500k's on it.

Sorry to jack but i have a question!

My rear blinkers and brake light dont work due to (i suspect) some wiring that has been rubbed the wrong way where the seat bolts fasten and the wiring needs to be re-placed. My question is, is it as 'simple' as buying some new electical wire from ?(place supplier of choice here) and replacing the wire thats gone wrong? is there a more heavy duty wire that is better suited so this doesnt happen again.......im full regoed and just sold my 4WD ute so would like to use my fully awesome bike to get to work with so need flashy light things to keep the 5-O away.
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  #9  
Old 21-01-2012
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mollystaff mollystaff is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Booway View Post
COMPLETLEY STOCK mine is. Bought new in 08 , only 3,500k's on it.

Sorry to jack but i have a question!

My rear blinkers and brake light dont work due to (i suspect) some wiring that has been rubbed the wrong way where the seat bolts fasten and the wiring needs to be re-placed. My question is, is it as 'simple' as buying some new electical wire from ?(place supplier of choice here) and replacing the wire thats gone wrong? is there a more heavy duty wire that is better suited so this doesnt happen again.......im full regoed and just sold my 4WD ute so would like to use my fully awesome bike to get to work with so need flashy light things to keep the 5-O away.
If you can see the damaged wires, theres no reason you can't repair or replace them, just join and insulate the connections in a reliable fashion.
I use insulated crimp links and heat shrink.
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1982 CR250RC PROJECT (wefixulongtime)


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Whenever I try to make something idiot proof - Along comes a smarter idiot!
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  #10  
Old 21-01-2012
rideo rideo is offline
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Forgot another issue.
The rear guard, it ends up rattling about as the mounts wear with use because the guard bounces around on every hit, the fix is to cut some flat washers out of an old tube and put 'em where needed.
Where they are needed is 'in there', if you have this problem you will work out where they need to go.
The rubber absorbs all future hits so is a fairly permanent solution, if not ... i'm sure you could cut a lifetimes supply out of less than one whole tube.
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