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  #1  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
Snaithoss Snaithoss is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Clake Pro Lever Help

Recently bought a Clake Pro Lever thanks!

Super happy with it, but one thing!

Bled all the clutch line, the clutch fully disengages - no slippage, not any more dragging than the clutch before, confident that no air is in the system.

Bled the brake line, the brake fully engages when pulled - works perfectly, also confident there is no air in the system.

My one problem is that the clutch is heavier than the OEM clutch (I am disengaging the clutch fully on the pro lever by pulling it across to the right and down - I am indeed disengaging the clutch properly).

I thought the Pro Lever was meant to make the clutch considerably lighter, not heavier...

"It also uses the same force balancing system from the Clake One Light clutch to significantly reduce the clutch pull needed." I feel like this part isn't working on my Pro Lever. Not sure why.

Any trouble shooting tips?

If this helps, I am on a Beta RR350 Racing Edition 2016.

Cheers,
Alex

Last edited by Snaithoss; 2 Weeks Ago at 06:08 PM. Reason: Just added a bit more info!
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
Jallopy Jallopy is offline
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Unfortunately mine was the same when I had it on the bike.
The only way to soften the pull was to change the clutch cam with another one supplied that made the pull longer but that also meant the brake was starting to be applied before clutch fully disengaged. I hated that so I went back to my original cam.

The other thing you can do is ad some small washers to the spring in the Clake to apply more pressure. At least 2mm is required.
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  #3  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
Snaithoss Snaithoss is offline
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Ah damn, I thought it was going to feel like a One-light clutch with the LHRB feature integrated into it.

The Clake website is pretty misleading then...

Does anyone know if the Clake Two gives you that super light clutch like the website promises?
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  #4  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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pecker pecker is online now
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I have had the clake Pro and 2 but havnt used the one light clutch but I think the ones with the integrated brake may seem heavier just because the action is different? The one is pretty much a normal lever in position where as when included with the brake function it is effectively a shorter lever and closer to the bars?
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Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Roon Roon is offline
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you could try fitting the 2018 clutch slave (rebleed required ), the 2018 clutch springs, retainers and bolts to lighten the clutch pull
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  #6  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
Snaithoss Snaithoss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roon View Post
you could try fitting the 2018 clutch slave (rebleed required ), the 2018 clutch springs, retainers and bolts to lighten the clutch pull
Definitely looking at adding some washers into the clutch springs this weekend. If this doesn't work, I'll just bite the bullet with the clutch pull. If I really get sick of it, I'll definitely do the rest. Thanks Roon for the Lever

I actually tried doing a backwards bleed on both systems with a cheap $5 oil mixing syringe and pushed brake fluid out of the bleeder nipple on both the brake and clutch lines (https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...=en_AU&start=2). Worked SUPER well, really surprised on how well it worked. After that, I just did what you said, zip-tie the lever for the clutch and then the brake over night on each line to get the rest of the air out.
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  #7  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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pecker pecker is online now
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As someone who has fitted a few Clake products over the years I know full well how much of a pain they can be to bleed.

Buy one of these
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/e...-brake-bleeder

Best tool I have ever bought, wish I had one years ago.

Iíve tried syringes and Mechanical pump up bleeders, but the air powered jobbie is the ducks nuts.

Awsome for bleeding any line, especially when your doing it by yourself
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