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Beta Forum My bike is Beta than yours!

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  #21  
Old 21-05-2019
Jallopy Jallopy is offline
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Yes he has the same problem the battery is not keeping up,and the battery is running on empty all day.
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  #22  
Old 03-07-2019
Jallopy Jallopy is offline
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Beta EFI not charging

I have replaced the rear harness with a new one and there is a slight improvement, the battery keeps at 12.9V now regardless if the headlight is on or off.

I will have a write up after this week end ride. I believe I have fixed the problem.
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  #23  
Old 03-07-2019
Marty MOOSE Marty MOOSE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jallopy View Post
I have replaced the rear harness with a new one and there is a slight improvement, the battery keeps at 12.9V now regardless if the headlight is on or off.



I will have a write up after this week end ride. I believe I have fixed the problem.
Look forward to hearing what you have found.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
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  #24  
Old 08-07-2019
Jallopy Jallopy is offline
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The new rear harness did not fix the intermittent problem of the battery getting fully charged (13.2V would be good)
The best I have seen on my bike even when it was new was only 13.1V

While I had the loom out I had a quick look at its construction, everything earths thru 1 skinny earth wire. The +ve red regulator wire looks marginal.

I decided to cut the loom harness wrapping off the loom.

There are 3 cold crimp joints in the rear part of the harness the location is where the loom goes over the frame and at the back of the tank.
2 more next to the steering lock on the steering head.
Every cold crimp joint looked perfect no loose wires etc and the crimp was super tight.

Out with the soldering iron and solder the lot. Thats 5 crimps I soldered.

The battery voltage now read at idle 13.5V, The battery in about 2 minutes went from 13.0 V to 13.2v

So if your battery v is less than 13v and you dont see at least 13.4v with the engine at idle the loom may be faulty. There is resistance some where in the loom.

.................................................. ......
Next I thought I would see if I could get the full potential of the charge happening at the battery.
I soldered a heavy bypass wire at the +ve wire on the regulator and ran it to the three wires at the 3 diodes pack.
I soldered another earth wire to the regulator -ve wire and earthed it back thru the bolt that holds the regulator onto the frame.

Another heavy bypass wire was added to the battery side of the 3 diode pack and bolted straight onto the +ve terminal of the battery.
The 3 wires at the diode all had a little plastic removed and then grouped together with the bypass wire wound around them all and finally soldered.

The battery v at idle was now 13.76v at idle I had just picked up another .25v.

The test was riding it yesterday, the battery was always fully charged with 3 lights on with the battery test button.
I tested the battery when I got back to the cars with my multi meter and with engine off 13.76v. Perfect!
.
The 5 cold crimps are blue that need soldering.
The other 3 wires added are optional.
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File Type: jpg Beta Harness. - Copy.jpg (91.5 KB, 26 views)
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  #25  
Old 08-07-2019
Marty MOOSE Marty MOOSE is offline
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What a great write up and outcome. Many have said the wire diameter is to small. Cheers for the effort and sharing, mine is at 13.2 so will leave it for the moment.
Thanks
Marty

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  #26  
Old 09-07-2019
gasser nate's Avatar
gasser nate gasser nate is online now
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Thatís why I said do a voltage drop test up there somewhere, it pin points exactly where and how much voltage you are losing. It can be done between any point on the harness to eliminate components. Shitty crimp joins should not be allowed in harnesses. Every manufacturer is guilty of it. All the harnesses Iíve made over the years for cars and bikes have all the joins outside the loom and always soldered.
Glad you finally got to the bottom of it. I do miss some tricky diagnosis some days!
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  #27  
Old 10-07-2019
ktm wrench ktm wrench is offline
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Well done Jallopy 👍👍
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  #28  
Old 14-07-2019
Jallopy Jallopy is offline
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Beta wiring fix

There are 2 ways to fix the Beta not charging issue.

1 Solder all the 5 cold crimps. Battery volts will rise to approx 13.5v
2 Solder in the 3 additional bypass wires.

Just doing No 1 is the best way because it fixes any other potential problem such as a poor connection to headlight or computer etc. at the same time.

Doing only No 2 means you dont have to open the loom but will get the battery charging properly again.

Doing both gives an over kill permanent repair that should last the life of the bike.

There are 2 cold crimps at the steering lock.
Here is the location of the 3 cold crimps in the rear harness. Under the rear of the tank the loom needs to be opened.
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File Type: jpg DSCN3637_LI.jpg (98.5 KB, 25 views)
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