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  #11  
Old 06-12-2011
Mat R's Avatar
Mat R Mat R is offline
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Dedicated Yam man for some unknown reason, I got the Honda at the Yack bash auction after some drinking and cause it was there. Didn't spend as much at this year's auction. Previous ride on an earlier 250X was o.k. but had found cramped, not found this on the 09 model, with a 2010 build date. Still have the WR450 07, but finding I am picking the 250X more and more when going for a ride.

[HANDLING]

*Stock everything. Works fine for me.

*Rear axle positioning - not quite where it needs to be as chain is floggin' around a bit at the moment.

*Forks 5mm above triples. First ride was level and did not like the feel of the front end. Might drop it a bit more.

[ERGONOMICS]

*X Tank (came with it, but looking to put a bigger tank on, hate putting 2L of fuel in the backpack each ride). 132km to dry in the high country.
*Standard pegs but want to get Fastway pegs, in low boy position (stock are very small).

*Stock TAG Handlebars (I don't know better).

*Rad sticker kit that does nothing for the ergo's.

[SUSPENSION]

*Stock valving. Stock springs. Really should check sag and stuff soon. Needs a seal on one of the fronts from a nick on the tube. Sanded to the nick out.

[ENGINE]

* Been good so far. 40hrs on stock valves.

* Soon to fit 08R head with Kibblewhite SS valves and 08R cam, with Athena 280.

[EXHAUST]

*PC 496, it sounds too loud to me.

[JETTING AND AIRBOX]

*Whatever was in it when I got it.

*Air box - cut out, I know this as there was a bit of black rubber in the spares box.

*Twin Air filter. Sometimes use the stock filter when I get lazy cleaning the twin air.

[CLUTCH]

*Stock and like new after 1200kms or so.

[TYRES]

*FRONT: Going with a Kenda something, got it cheap
*REAR : Putting on a Pirelli, that was cheap too.

Have waited a year to wear out the MC5, they were o.k. tyres but never really gelled with em.

[ELECTRICAL]

* Still all the stock ADR stuff. HI/Lo swith broke off real quick. The rear indicators are still there and took the front off. Not sure which headlight I am using as I can't tell them apart. May be going on to full reg soon so not stripping out the ADR gear.

[PROTECTION]

*Force full bashy and rad gaurds. Going to stay with these.

*Stock bark busters. I use them a lot it seems, need new plastics.

[DRIVE AND BRAKES]

*Primary drive Renthal rear at 51T, going to try a 48 alloy once the 280 is on. Haven't counted what is on the front. Ran with the 53T stock for a few rides but found it lifted the front too easy on steeper hill climbs.

*Stock rotors.

*Radiator overflow is left in place. Still has some green colour in it.

NOTES :

My bike has some extra bling bits that were on it when I got it. I like it as it looks different to the standard ones or the HRC colours. It's great to ride and I may get rid of the 450 soon.

General trail riding, medium speed on range of tracks. Whoops smash me, but the bike is fine.
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Current Vibes WR450F, XJR1300, IT200, IT175, CRF250X, TRX850
Past Vibes WR426, DRZ400, IT200, R1, XJ750, TS250
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2011
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nawill nawill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowpat View Post
I have a Magura clutch on mine and am happy with it. Always smooth and never needs adjusting. Lever force is about the same. I do need to pull it all the way in to fully disengage - which means occasionally stalling if I'm sloppy with it. It could be adjusted further out but that is a compromise I make. If I had smaller hands it might be an issue.

As supplied the hose on the slave cylinder is angled towards the right of the bike, to follow the original clutch cable routing near the exhaust pipe. On TT there are some war stories about melted Magura clutch lines. I loosened the banjo bolt a little and turned it the other way and routed the hose on the left side of the bike well away from the exhaust.
the hydro clutch i have is from an 09 450R (a mate gave it to me for nix, i just have to replace the line..)...it has a different ratio to the 250X one...might be better, might not. the line will arrive this week
It has no provision for the hot start lever on the master, so i am trying to find options for an old style hot start button on the carb, but not having much luck...
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2011
cowpat cowpat is offline
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I wouldn't claim mine's the ultimate but here goes...

[HANDLING]
*Triples - 22mm BRP CRF250R clamps, reused stock stem and bearing, homemade headlight mount adaptors
*Forks flush, sag 100 mm with current tyres; fork height and sag depend on tyres

[ERGONOMICS]
*R Tank - ebay wreckers, heat-gunned the R clamp to make it fit.
*Pro Taper 1 1/8 Universal Low bars raised 10 mm with longer bolts and washers, tried many bars and heights/positions.
*Bar mounts at forward position (which on BRP clamps is about 6 mm ahead of stock forward position)
*Pro Taper Pillowtop Lite grips mounted on old stripped ODI lock-on grip carcases, makes bar changing easy but needs two throttle-side grips

[SUSPENSION]
*Stock springs and valving. Forks 7R 15C, shock 8R 15C 7/6HC. 71 kg, about 84 kg with gear and full Camelbak, lunch, tools, spare tube etc. Haven't ridden anything that feels better yet (i.e. better and set up for my weight/skill level) so expect to leave it stock for a while.
*Pro Honda HP 5 wt fork oil. Tried Silkolene Pro RSF but the stiction on the inner cartridge was significantly increased.

[ENGINE]
*Wiseco 13.5 piston, didn't notice any significant power difference versus stock piston. Possibly more engine braking but I can't be sure.
*Xceldyne intake valves with CuBe seats, Xceldyne intake and exhaust springs. Stock exhaust valves, retainers and locks.
*05R cam, apparently the R cam with the most low-end power. Bike is a CA model and had a 0-degree overlap cam. R cam has made a huge difference to the bike, although perhaps any decent cam would have. Lost some low-end but much better overall now.
*Large RC fuel filter on gearbox breather to keep out dust

[EXHAUST]
*FMF Q4 with spark arrestor. Standard header with heat shield. Joint between header and muffler relies on silicone to seal and is dodgy.

[JETTING AND AIRBOX]
*NCYQ needle at #3, 158 MJ, 40 PJ, R&D ALJ @1 1/8 turns out, Tusk FS @1 7/8 turns out. 13-15 km/litre depending on conditions. 155 MJ was next best, 42 PJ ok but felt a touch rich and ALJ had to be wound out and FS in a lot, 38 PJ was lean. Haven't tried other needles or clip positions as it feels ok.
*Air box cut out along molded line.
*NoToil air filters and oil.
*Mini RC fuel filters on all carburetor vent lines to keep out dust

[CLUTCH]
*Magura hydraulic. Never needs adjusting and always smooth action.

[TYRES]
*FRONT: M403 80/100 but preferred M203. Standard 1.5 mm tube saves 1 kg over 4 mm UHD, which I think is noticeable.
*REAR: D756 100/100 but preferred M204 and M404. Using Kenda Tuff 2.5 mm tube which saves 0.6 kg over UHD but I can't tell the difference.
*Both tyres 7.5 psi cold run at about 9 psi when warm.
*Speedo replacement spacer and all other wheel spacers replaced with ebay alloy cup-type similar to the Yamaha plastic/steel ones. Filled with marine grease.

[ELECTRICAL]
*Lithium-ion 8-cell battery from OMG ebay store
*Non-ADR CA import bike only has basic loom.
*Pink wire mod because everyone else does it.
*Combined rear brake/tail light and master cylinder switch for Rec Reg.
*Grip heaters.
*Filled rear of stock kill switch with silicone gasket goop to make it waterproof.

[PROTECTION]
*Force full bashy and rad guards.
*Bark Busters with triple clamp mounts.
*ProCarbon CF frame guards. Left one currently worn through. Adhesive-lined heavy-duty heatshrink on exposed sections of lower subframe is holding up well.
*Sidestand rubbed against swingarm until I bent it a bit more in the press.

[DRIVE AND BRAKES]
*Alloy rear sprocket, DID VT2 chain.
*Stock 14:53 gearing. Works good.
*TM chainguide, after the internal rubber got drawn in on the stock one a couple of times.
*Moved rear brake footpad back 15 mm on lever to fit my feet. Wish I could do the same for the shifter.
*Outboard rear brake pad wears faster than inboard pad in mud. Haven't figured out why yet.

I like it. It seems a good fit for me, the type of riding I do, and my skill level.

Never ridden real whoops so I've no idea about that.


Edit: Some changes here: http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...1&postcount=88

Plus suspension settings now - forks: 7R 14C (fresh oil) 7R 15C (old oil > about 25 hours); shock: 9R 19C 11/6 HC
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2011
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Just tried a few mods.

1./ Gearing - 13/53

Was doing alot of wheel spinniing around flat turns and mono'ing out of my grass track turns.. felt like a compelte hoon. First too busy as you'd expect for normal riding, but made the trials type work more fun. 2nd is a little busy. Top wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Going to go to 52 on the rear in the hope of keeping the wheel spin and mono ability with a fraction less busy 2nd and top.. shame they didn't have 51 in stock. Top as I suspected became far more useable as an aggressive acceleraton gear, and still 20kay higher top speed than 4th was on 14/53. 13/52 will leave unstrained cruising speed at about 4 kay lower (76km/h).

2./ Dropped 1kg from rear wheel and added MX non o-ring chain.

UHD > HD and dropped extra rimock and put on drilled rotor : Seemed to make the bike more snappy when blipping the throttle, also made rear end feel alot easier to throw around and pivot on. Easier to wheel around the garage

3./ Dropped 800grams from front wheel. (have changed spacer yet).

UHD > HD and dropped extra rimlock : This one didn't seem to work so well for me. The removal of the gyro's from the front wheel seemed to make it a little busy over rocks and undulation hinting that it was a bit too eager to change direction... but at the same time don't think it really helped me turn. Also seemed to make suspension harsher even though it was only set at 9psi. I think that X spacer is worth about 300grams, you wanna weigh it willis?
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  #15  
Old 07-12-2011
cowpat cowpat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco View Post
The removal of the gyro's from the front wheel seemed to make it a little busy over rocks and undulation hinting that it was a bit too eager to change direction... but at the same time don't think it really helped me turn.
Yes it did seem to make it less stable in the rough stuff, but I did think it helped with changing turn radius quickly in the tight stuff. I actually noticed the change in behaviour before I realised it was due to the lost weight.

I guess you could try adding extra weight to see if that makes it better or worse. UHD tubes could be the ideal compromise between stability and manoeuvrability for you, or just what you're used to?
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2011
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nawill nawill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco View Post
I think that X spacer is worth about 300grams, you wanna weigh it willis?
I will weigh it tonight.

you really ought to have a go with mousses when you get a chance. I love them, i can smash them into anything without fear of a flat or denting the rim and they are half the weight of a UHD tube
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowpat View Post
Yes it did seem to make it less stable in the rough stuff, but I did think it helped with changing turn radius quickly in the tight stuff. I actually noticed the change in behaviour before I realised it was due to the lost weight.
Hmm good call.. I'll give it a bit more time. I did like how easy i could do a slight loft and then land the wheel down in a different place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nawill View Post
I will weigh it tonight.

you really ought to have a go with mousses when you get a chance. I love them, i can smash them into anything without fear of a flat or denting the rim and they are half the weight of a UHD tube
I'm scared of trying to change them :s I really suck at doing tyres..

Just realised you need the R axle to use the R spacer which sucks... there are other spacer kits for the X though...
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  #18  
Old 08-12-2011
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nawill nawill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco View Post
I think that X spacer is worth about 300grams, you wanna weigh it willis?
i just came in from the shed....the bike is coming along nicely, RMATV freight is fast, but i wish my parts were here yesterday!

speedo drive spacer is only 123g,
the complete axle, spacers, nut is 406g...

hardly worth spending any coin on getting rid of it....ride through a cowshit and you will pick up more weight than that!
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  #19  
Old 17-12-2011
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Well I just tried the flywheel. $47 shipped.

I used a oil filter wrench to hold it and it came off easily. I did have an old flywheel tool to pop it off the crank though that i bought years ago which made that bit easy too.

Difference is nice, I'd say worthwhile. Blip the throttle and it reacts instantely and sounds angrier. Also the second you touch the throttle in first the front wheel comes up, no hesitation at all. Makes for alot of fun out in the yard doin little foot high wheelies every time i touch the throttle

Now regarding the gearbox, i did some research and it's actually wider ratio than the 450X or the yammy's. 5th is about 2.85 less reduction over 1st, where as your basic jap mx'er is 2.0 and a 450x is 2.75. 350sxf about 2.15 and 450sxf 2.30

Still liking the lower gearing for the extra aggression, but I think i might like 13/51 as it approaches the point of taming the extra hit. Still gives you 130km/h top speed which is enough for a little 250 (and still higher than a TE310 6 speed).
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  #20  
Old 17-12-2011
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I've also ordered an STR 1/2" lowering kit which lowers your footpegs via the bracket. (directly down, but not backward like the fastways do)



I'm finding the X footpegs need a few degree more angle forward. I've modified my current lowboy mounted fastways, but once i've got this lowering kit i can try the pivot pegs in a true low position (their "low position" is really the same as honda stock"). Thinking about modifying them to allow 0-20 deg forward rotation but block out the 0 to -20 rotation. Drives me crazy, especially trying to do stand wheelies.

I can't recall but i dont think the fastways dropped the pegs as much as they said they would.. maybe 8mm ? will need to measure again, have a feeling it might be less like 4mm. I'll measure up the STR when i get them.
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