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  #41  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Tom68 Tom68 is offline
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Was trying to find our oil thread, this one will do.

So if you've been using combined rated spark ignition and compression ignition oils you may find the classification changing but probably still the same oil.

https://www.fuelsandlubes.com/fli-ar...er-apply-2020/

P.S there's been some serious f"ups with these light weight oils, especially since SL was introduced.
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Last edited by Tom68; 4 Weeks Ago at 06:01 PM.
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  #42  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
arwtee arwtee is offline
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Depends on what sort of engine....
Bike motors with integrated gearboxes must use an oil designed for that job.
Older engines with looser bearing tolerances are happy with mineral oils (which also leak less because of the bigger molecule size).
New engines with tighter bearing tolerance like thinner synthetics.
But most importantly the earlier post hit the spot....Clean fresh cheap oils are better than dirty old expensive oils!
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  #43  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arwtee View Post
Depends on what sort of engine....
Bike motors with integrated gearboxes must use an oil designed for that job.
Older engines with looser bearing tolerances are happy with mineral oils (which also leak less because of the bigger molecule size).
New engines with tighter bearing tolerance like thinner synthetics.
But most importantly the earlier post hit the spot....Clean fresh cheap oils are better than dirty old expensive oils!
You mean new as in no wear or do you think modern engines have tighter clearances, either way that's not the reason for light oils.
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  #44  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
380EXCQLD 380EXCQLD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom68 View Post
You mean new as in no wear or do you think modern engines have tighter clearances, either way that's not the reason for light oils.
What is the reason Tom? ...lower friction, better heat transfer?
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  #45  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 380EXCQLD View Post
What is the reason Tom? ...lower friction, better heat transfer?
Too help meet economy targets, (it takes less power to pump cats piss than good old reliable 20w 50) it comes at the expense of emissions because more gets consumed through the combustion chamber and it drags more contaminants off the cylinder walls back to the sump, hence all the problems getting a good additive package to fight cat' poisoning and accelerated wear problems.

Stupid things happen like DOHC cam chains have a gazillion links, a couple of thou wear in each pin in some engines will be enough to throw a crank/cam out of phase fault, the reality is the motor will run fine but it's not now in it's tested emissions range. With your cam in block OHV's (LS's) there isn't enough links in the cam chain to matter.


You have to keep changing the thin oils to get rid of the contaminants, meanwhile my 415,000 k VY V6 that spent the holidays towing the daughters ski boat just got an oil change of 20w50 after a 40,000 km wait, it's average oil change interval for the past 300,000 k's is about every 35,000, it does do half its k's on LP but.
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Last edited by Tom68; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:01 PM.
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  #46  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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oldboy oldboy is offline
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Oil hoo haa

My poor old 2006 yz450 gets flogged around the flat track exclusively these days, however in it's past has been trail ridden, mx practice, marking out enduro's, all rounder etc etc.

God knows how many hours are on it. Never had an hour meter. Actually it did have one for a while, but it sh1t itself.

Delo400, change the filter every 5 oil changes. Change oil really regularly maximum 5 hours riding. All good.
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  #47  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
380EXCQLD 380EXCQLD is offline
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I run Delo400 in almost everything, mower, excavator, truck, tractors, cruisers and even the 2t trannys for a while.
ATF is better in the 2t's though, shifts better, clutch disengages better and it actually holds up better under heavy clutch abuse than the Delo.
Sometimes shifting would get real notchy after only 3 or 4 hrs with Delo, the ATF has never done this, even when I didn't change it for close to 10 hrs.
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  #48  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
Jallopy Jallopy is offline
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ATF for the win in the gearbox here as well.
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  #49  
Old 1 Week Ago
Hannenberger Hannenberger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OMC View Post
Some will say use full synthetic oil only
Others will say semi synthetic is OK
Some will say use cheap car oil
Others will say tractor oil is even better
Some will say only use JASO rated oils
Others will say JASO classification is in the same league as Halal
I have found in diesel 4x4 's listen to the turbo ? this will tell you something about the oil I believe, now just heard a new Nissan screaming turbo whine from right off idle, well it sounded good to hear, but I believe the oil is crap as to why all the noise.
Driving such things I have heard a sort of rattling noise sort of at times siting on the highway at steady speed with a brand new diesels turbo and a sort of whine at times and when changed to a good oil that noise was totally gone.

I believe that roller bearings, regardless be it gear box in a truck to big ends in a bike roll about, some roll real fast and some slower and some may not at all with to good a full synthetic oil and that's not good, all bearings you want to move around a bit but not out of control as that flogs them just as bad with not moving at all.

Seen many a roller rocker buggered with using full synthetic oil. the original Mobil 1, I think that they have it worked out now.

I would only use full synthetic oils with a Turbo, due to the temp the oil has to endure with the turbo.

As for a average street driven car that engine will never see such heat to need synthetic oil.
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