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  #1  
Old 22-10-2011
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Krackers Krackers is offline
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We can rebuild him.

G'day DBWers.

I'm in the process of rebuilding the top end of my CRF250X.

The bike has done approximately 6000kms and I'm changing out the second piston on it.

Right hand intake valve is just out of spec, so shimming will take place. Intakes are stainless steel and have been in there for about 2500kms. Only been shimmed once previously. After a call to Disco, he assured me that they won't need replacing any time really soon!

Anyways, I'm putting a new JE piston in (after a good ol' fashioned honing from my newly acquired Flex Hone)

I checked the piston that came out, and after around 2000kms or so, it's still in spec no worries but I'm replacing it.

The bore is clearly glazed, particularly at the front and back sections. Cross-hatching is still very evident and there's no bad damage to the bore at all.

I checked the bottom end play by checking for vertical slack in the conrod - tight as a fish's ********. Sweet.

JUNE 2012 EDIT: NOT ANYMORE!!!!

As some know, I haven't ridden my Honda since the Otways Bogans earlier this year and have had back surgery. Anyways, I'm seven weeks post op now, feeling pretty good I suppose, still got some pains and what not but hey that's life.. I decided to start my bike a few days ago to warm up the oil for an oil change. Took it out for a few quick monos and shit, dropped the oil and found a lovely collection of copper shavings in there and some in my oil filter. Time to rebuild the bottom end. I've never done this before but I'm keen to do it. I'll try and document as much as I can in this thread as a source of information for others.

Obvioulsy the first three pages relate to a top-end rebuild so the rest will continue afterwards.


Here's some pics.

Good ol' TDC.



Woops, it broke and the pumpertron fell out of the valveinator!



Typical wear on pumpertron.



Looks like Talla's been busy in here with his hatchett, cross-hatchetting is nice and clear but will be cleaned up with light honing.



I like pink. Not the singer.



New JE pumpertron kit.



Valve clearances and shim sizes just for records and to work out new shim sizes.

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Top/bottom end rebuild thread CRF250X.. Click here.
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Old 22-10-2011
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Always like reading a good rebuild thread . .
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Old 22-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pk View Post
Always like reading a good rebuild thread . .
What about this one?
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Old 22-10-2011
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What about this one?
yeth, this one pacifically - now it's ophicial tho neeee !
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Old 22-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyH View Post
What about this one?
Get *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&ed *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&.
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Top/bottom end rebuild thread CRF250X.. Click here.
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Old 22-10-2011
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I forgot to mention my sponsor in this rebuild: beer.



And some promo for FORCE. Legends.
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Top/bottom end rebuild thread CRF250X.. Click here.
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Old 22-10-2011
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Good read and pics mate, thanks.

Does the new JE piston have that black teflon type coating on the skirt?
I had a 2strk piston coated once (and a ceramic coating on the crown) and the piston came out looking nearly new at the next rebuild.


Good luck (not that you'll need it) and keep the updates coming.
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Old 22-10-2011
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The JE is indeed a non stick frypan made out of 2618 alloy which is 2% silicon.
I've got a wossner 4032 sitting here which i think is 11%. Silicon.
So I guess Kracka's weiner will be stronger but move around more in his hole..

This is my stocker after 70 hours



Here's a used version of kracka's JE piston after it had a bit of a hard life - only 83 hours,
but it did a ride with no coolant.



These were my valves after 0.40 mm of shimming (basically zero'd out 4 times). Stainless. 190 hours i think.

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Last edited by disco; 22-10-2011 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 22-10-2011
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what's the inlet side of your piston look like kracker ?
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Old 22-10-2011
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Nice writeup krackas! How many hours are you putting on a piston?

I see you stuffed the crank tunnel with a pair of your old panties
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Last edited by yam-man; 22-10-2011 at 08:39 PM.
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