Time to split the case on my 200.

[RMJay84]

My ktm 200 has started to go "knock knock knock" down there under load and deceleration so I'm guessing it's bottom end rebuild time.

Before embarking on the mind boggling exercise of stripping the whole thing down and trying to put it back together with all the right bits in the right places, I was wondering if anyone had any tips about the process.

I've sussed out a complete rebuild kit from TSP for $1100'ish which includes a new crank and piston.

[poper]

Yes, just run 30;1 premix instead of 50;1, and harley oil in the box if it loose down there,=$0....

[Craigy]

You can do it a fair bit cheaper if you just rebuild the crank. If you are not confident on doing it yourself call around for someone who is experienced. Probably won't be the local dealer. Stripping them down and reassembling is easy enough, just take your time and ensure when you pull it down you keep everything in order, if unsure the parts manuals on-line are your friend. It's also a good time to look at gearbox and water pump bearings, clutch and the countershaft for wear.

[Spac]

Work carefully and methodically.

Have some way of separating the parts and the fasteners from each area of the motor/gearbox. I like to have separate tubs for the bolts that hold the motor into the frame, top end, everything under the clutch cover, ignition/stator and inside the gearbox. You might want to break it down into smaller groups if you aren’t confident.
Labels will help lots!

Take lots of photos of everything, including the things that currently seem obvious/easy to remember.

If something isn’t co-operating, then take a breather, and come back to it with fresh eyes. Often you will find that it works differently to how you assumed.

Always remember that it is not rocket surgery: mechanics can do it, so you can too.

You’d be crazy to not change the main bearings and seals and the gearbox bearings/seals while it is apart. Most people will do the top end while they are doing the bottom end, but it is not automatically essential: if you are looking to save money, then make a judgment based on what you have.
That said, a fully rebuilt engine is great peace of mind.

[380EXCQLD]

A neat trick for keeping track of bolts(especially case bolts of differing lengths) is to poke a hole for each bolt in the side(or bottom) of a cardboard box.
It keeps the bolts captive & grouped together and you can label them if you need to.

Out of interest Jay, how many hours & top ends are on your 200? ...and how much of a hiding do you give it?

[RMJay84]

You’d be crazy to not change the main bearings and seals and the gearbox bearings/seals while it is apart

I agree.

Out of interest Jay, how many hours & top ends are on your 200? ...and how much of a hiding do you give it?

It had 65 commuter hours on it when I bought it, it came with road tyres. I'm not a crazy fast rider, probably a clubman at best.

83hrs on top end
165hrs on bottom end

Run 50:1 and there has always been spooge dripping out of it.

[poper]

I agree.




It had 65 commuter hours on it when I bought it, it came with road tyres. I'm not a crazy fast rider, probably a clubman at best.

83hrs on top end
165hrs on bottom end

Run 50:1 and there has always been spooge dripping out of it.

my bicycles average speed is 20kmh, my Mazda sports car average speed is 54kmh, a 1958 Vespa 2t will do 100000km on the same rings,piston etc ,,,has something changed....[racebike different story obviously]

[380EXCQLD]

I agree.




It had 65 commuter hours on it when I bought it, it came with road tyres. I'm not a crazy fast rider, probably a clubman at best.

83hrs on top end
165hrs on bottom end

Run 50:1 and there has always been spooge dripping out of it.

I'm not doubting your diagnosis, but it seems early for a bottom end.
Do you know if it's ever had a gut full of water or some other shenanigans that might've shortened the life of the big end bearing?

[RMJay84]

I'm not doubting your diagnosis, but it seems early for a bottom end.
Do you know if it's ever had a gut full of water or some other shenanigans that might've shortened the life of the big end bearing?

No water. Nothing has changed other than a sudden onset of a knocking sound under load and decel. I don't know what else it could be.

[poper]

No water. Nothing has changed other than a sudden onset of a knocking sound under load and decel. I don't know what else it could be.

Get a mechanics stethoscope [few bucks of ebay or $15 from a auto parts shop], should be able to pinpoint if its a bearing in the engine, but it could be anything from a chain buffer to a cracked pipe etc etc etc.

[axel]

It does seem early.
I haven't had the pleasure of digging that deep but would an initial step include:
- Pull the jug and check up/down play?
- Pull the stator off and check any up/down or float?
- Other easy access tests I can't remember?

[Spac]

I agree.




It had 65 commuter hours on it when I bought it, it came with road tyres. I'm not a crazy fast rider, probably a clubman at best.

83hrs on top end
165hrs on bottom end

Run 50:1 and there has always been spooge dripping out of it.

50:1 is pretty light on unless you are a very gentle rider. Especially on a 200 that gets revved harder than a 250/300.

On a premix 2T, spooge is a badge of honor. If you ever succeed in eliminating it, then your engine lifespan will be significantly reduced.

[ggg]

50:1 is pretty light on unless you are a very gentle rider. Especially on a 200 that gets revved harder than a 250/300.

On a premix 2T, spooge is a badge of honor. If you ever succeed in eliminating it, then your engine lifespan will be significantly reduced.

spoonge is rich jetting nothing to do with oil mix ratio, its unburnt fuel.

[ggg]

My ktm 200 has started to go "knock knock knock" down there under load and deceleration so I'm guessing it's bottom end rebuild time.

Before embarking on the mind boggling exercise of stripping the whole thing down and trying to put it back together with all the right bits in the right places, I was wondering if anyone had any tips about the process.

I've sussed out a complete rebuild kit from TSP for $1100'ish which includes a new crank and piston.

pro x rod kits are $200 and another $120 labour much better than another cheap ars crank, replace all seals, crank bearings check all the box bearing cleaned and dry to se if they need to be replaced, its an easy job to do. the only tools ou may need is a crank puller and clutch basket holing tool the rest is easy as with standard tools

[axel]

spoonge is rich jetting nothing to do with oil mix ratio, its unburnt fuel.

True that. Ride before last I was still too rich on the metering rod, spooge running all the way down the muffler to the swingarm. 2 clicks leaner and it's on the "lip" of the muffler now , as it should be.
Though in saying that if I ran 25:1 I'd imagine the spooge would also flow, but I'm not going to prove that point. Happy at 50:1 on my lugging 300.