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  • CRF250X Ultimate setups

    So here's our version of a "what did you do to your XXXX today". Let's start out with a baseline of what you're up to at present.

    Here's mine...


    [HANDLING]

    *Triples - 22mm ProTaper Accutrax with (soft) Blue shock absorbing elastomers low torque (All the honda's went to 22mm offset in 2008 with the HPSD.. except for the 250X which stayed at 24mm) cost $240 but hard to get at that price now.

    *Rear axle positioning - At the most forward position. Will alter gearing if necessary.

    *Forks up 10mm, extra 8mm added to rear sag (113ish) for extra squatting, lower seat height

    (I've run scotts, RTT, Ohlins and Werr steering dampers on them in the past, but they don't really need them if you set your clickers right and line up your front end)

    [ERGONOMICS]

    *R Tank (narrower and lower) - ebay wreckers.

    *Fastway pegs, in low boy position (alot lower than pivots in lowmount pos)

    *KTM Handlebars (neutral and low)

    *Bar mounts in 3rd position from rear (direct feeling, less arm pump, bit roomier - not possible with standard honda triples).

    *Slightly taller seat padding to allow getting forward

    [SUSPENSION]

    *Stock valving. Stock springs. Forks 8out Rebound, 15out compression. Shock standardish. My weight - 80kg. Feels alot stiffer than stock, but still compliant enough and front sticks like glue. (much harder to crash than stock!) Helps to replace stock fork oil before going this harsh. Valving has been the same since 2006.

    [ENGINE]

    *08R head for more midrange power so that it doesn't sign off as quick. Ports are more of a square shape instead of oval.

    *Wossner 13.5 (not compeltely tested.. but with my valves JE 13.2 was maybe a fraction too low and 13.7 was a bit too high). - cheap on ebay. Ring end gap was still as new after 100 hours on the last JE - hoping for same from wossner.

    *Excyldene valves. (Complete R head and full excyldene valve train $900 from fastheads.com). Yet to see them move. Ran faction but only lasted 200 hours. $160 fix... or $110 for ProX stainless kit. (Seat cut $80, headgasket $25). Running SS retainers, but want to change back to Ti.

    *Waiting to install R flywheel for more snap - ebay wrecker.

    (Also tried 05R cam, 08R cam, Hotcam S1).

    [EXHAUST]

    *FMF Q4 with spark arrestor. (But I'll probably try the Lexx next. (cheap, tuneable and does the job). Standard header with heat sheild. Seems about right.

    (Have to remember to keep cleaning out the spark arrestor as it blocks up).

    [JETTING AND AIRBOX]

    *NKKT standard needle. Tried JD got shocking fuel consumption. 155 main jet. Adjustably fuel screw. 42 Pilot.

    *Air box - standard if possible. Gets you longer filter life. If you go for bigger aftermarket filter, may need to cut the airbox. It's not a top end cam, and it's only a 250F, so I don't find it needs as much air as a falcon.

    *Running tank foam.. mainly because it was already in the tank i got off ebay. Discernable difference, not night and day.

    (Also tried 40mm carb, JD jetting and 05R honda needle range and adjustable leak jet)

    [CLUTCH]

    *Rekluse Pro, for one finger leaver pull. Wouldn't mind trying EXP 2.0 for less flywheel effect.

    [TYRES]

    *FRONT: Pirelli MXMS 80/100 9 psi. Bridg HD tube.
    *REAR :Bridg 404 rear 9psi, 110/18. Moving to Bridg HD instead of UDH to save 1kg

    (bigger rear sucks power- helps to have engine mods to keep the rear spinnable)

    [ELECTRICAL]

    *Lithium-ion batt - saves 1.8kg

    *Stripped off complete piggy back ADR loom (only takes a few minutes to get back to full comp spec - Starter button, killswitch, headlight, tailight).

    *Pink wire mod... not sure if it really does much.

    [PROTECTION]

    *Force full bashy and rad gaurds. Going to swap to plastic aceribics or hyde bashy I think though to save weight.

    *No hard gaurds, just bar ends and loose levers.

    *Might replace the stock super heavy side stand with simple alloy one.

    [DRIVE AND BRAKES]

    *Primary drivealloy rear sprocket

    *Going to try Renthal comp chain, to save weight and drag of big X ring. (Using cheap PD at the mo).

    *Rear rotor is 07 round drilled disc (not wave 08+) to save on pads. Alot lighter than solid rear rotor though.

    *Generally run 14/53 for useable top on slight inclines. But as mentioned will adjust to get rear axle against the blocks for sharpest handling.

    *Radiator overflow is left in place.. really doesn't weight that much for peice of mind. 13.5 piston is hard to overheat, but still doable. R radiators might be lighter but haven't tested yet.


    NOTES :

    Mods mainly aimed at ergo's and sharpening up the handling and getting weight forward. Engine wise just needs a bit of a midrange boost so it likes to rev more, esp with bigger tyre. Going really rich and opening up the flow too much on intake an exhaust in my opinion just makes the sign off more noteicable to me so i try to run the intake and zorst pretty tight.

    Mostly do technical and hardpack riding. This is definately not a woops setup.
    Last edited by disco; 04-12-2011, 09:02 PM.

  • #2
    I have the same tank,seat+pegs as you(thanks to your advice)and dont think i would enjoy riding the stock setup ever again,so i would agree this is the ultimate setup.

    I would say my front brake is also the"ultimate setup"
    Oversize wave disc kit,Bendix pads+ a Goodridge braided line.

    Comment


    • #3
      Lower seat height and Slightly taller seat padding to allow getting forward
      dosnt make sense

      You forgot your Postie clutch and Mental Mulisha stickers

      Berg FE350, The last one........
      Honda CRF450R
      KX250 BTX
      Suzuki TLS1000
      MSMCC

      Comment


      • #4
        [HANDLING]

        *Stock everything. Works fine for me.

        *Rear axle positioning - wherever it needs to be so chain isn't floggin' around.

        *Forks flush with triples.

        (I've never run scotts, RTT, Ohlins and Werr steering dampeningers in the past, but I should try them all and waste a shitload of money in order to go back to stock)

        [ERGONOMICS]

        *X Tank (better at knackering you)
        *Fastway pegs, in low boy position (definitely worth the coin, stock are very small)

        *Stock TAG Handlebars (they fucking suck)

        *Slightly radder seat cover than standard, allows people to say, "Hey, how much did you pay for that?" and me to reply, "Yeah, $27 including the sticker kit" and then they say, "Fuck, that was cheap!" and me then going, "Yeah, it was"

        [SUSPENSION]

        *Stock valving. Stock springs. Forks Chad did the clickerticlackers. Shock standardish. My weight - 85kg. My **** feels alot stiffer than stock, but still compliant enough and shoots stuff like glue.

        [ENGINE]

        *stock head with SS valves. Been good so far.

        *JE 13.something piston. Noticeably better than stock piston.

        *Waiting for Jesus to burn my petrol with his Jesus fire.

        (Also tried Budha, Satan, Allah & Tom Cruises' mob)

        [EXHAUST]

        *LEXX sex.
        (Have to remember to keep sticking my **** in it).

        [JETTING AND AIRBOX]

        *NVVT standard needle. 155 main jet. Fuel screw needs to come out a little more I reckon. 42 Pilot.

        *Air box - cut out extreme hard core. Gets you more air + more petrol = more power.

        *No tank foam. Tried whipped cream, stuck with jizz.

        (Also tried sybian, scat and shelving, apparently out of context)

        [CLUTCH]

        *Stock and like new after 6000kms or so..

        [TYRES]

        *FRONT: 403 Bridgy 80/21 HD tube
        *REAR :404 rear 110/18. UHD tube (keeps the slipped discs in check)


        [ELECTRICAL]

        *I-pod dock and sub woofer

        *Broken key in barrel, helped a 14 yo to steal my bike without too much trouble.

        *Pink wire mod... not sure if it really does much. True that one. I still can't find the limiter!

        [PROTECTION]

        *Force full bashy and rad gaurds. Going to stay with these cause if I ever lose them my sponsors just give me new ones.

        *Stock bark busters. They bust bark.

        *I replaced the stock super heavy side stand with simple alloy one. And, it's ace!

        [DRIVE AND BRAKES]

        *Primary driveSTEEL rear sprocket. Almost did my back lifting the *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&ing rear wheel onto the bench tonight to change wheel bearing.

        *Going to try ALLOY set next.

        *Rear rotor is solid and heavy. BUT, a heavy rear wheel means the bike is harder to ride!

        *Generally run 14/53 because that's what the cheap PD kits come with.

        *Radiator overflow is left in place.. I like the green colour it adds to the overall pink colour of these bikes. Bought some R radiators but sold em for crack.


        NOTES :

        My bike is *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&en sick as aye. I like it and it's awesome to ride. I don't know why anyone would even think they'd find a better bike for the kind of riding we do.
        Mostly do technical and mud riding and low speed no track. My bike smashes whoops.
        Thanks for just being human.

        Top/bottom end rebuild thread CRF250X.. Click here.

        Comment


        • #5
          $27 bucks... that's seriously *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&'n cheap eh

          What sidestand is it ? promotobillet ? was trying to find it today. Might try a promototree to lean it against.

          One other thing, I'm gonna ditch this massive block of a silver front wheel spacer for the simple R alloy collar that weighs 20kg less.

          What oversize disc kit did you go with Joe ?

          Comment


          • #6
            Jeeeeezeus...Your making your bike lighter.... that means















            Your just going to get faster
            011 kato 300
            xcf 350

            I was amazed at the 350 though. It doesn't have the power of a 450 but has more than a 250, so it was just like riding a bike in between the two, wow.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Disco View Post
              $27 bucks... that's seriously *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&'n cheap eh

              What sidestand is it ? promotobillet ? was trying to find it today. Might try a promototree to lean it against.

              One other thing, I'm gonna ditch this massive block of a silver front wheel spacer for the simple R alloy collar that weighs 20kg less.

              What oversize disc kit did you go with Joe ?
              Trailtech aye cuzzy bruss..
              Thanks for just being human.

              Top/bottom end rebuild thread CRF250X.. Click here.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Disco View Post
                $27 bucks... that's seriously *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#&'n cheap eh

                What sidestand is it ? promotobillet ? was trying to find it today. Might try a promototree to lean it against.

                One other thing, I'm gonna ditch this massive block of a silver front wheel spacer for the simple R alloy collar that weighs 20kg less.

                What oversize disc kit did you go with Joe ?
                It's 270mm full floater, didn't have a brand name on it,i got it from E-bay seller XTREME POWERSPORTS for $140 delivered.
                Its done about 60hrs and is holding up well.

                Comment


                • #9
                  good thread Disco!
                  I have 2011 250X with 0hrs on it in the shed, still setting it up, just sold an 08 250X with close to 200 hrs on it.

                  engine
                  *still stock for now....will be getting 08/09R head with excyldene Vv's
                  I had kibblewhite SS valves in the stock head on my 08, but i did find it held it back a little when racing grasstrack etc.
                  *I have a JD jetting kit, but might not bother with it for now, i had good results with the NKKT needle...42pilot, and 153MJ i think
                  *I wil get another JE 13.2:1 piston...i had good results with that
                  *i would like to try a hotcam S1

                  Exhaust
                  *FMF megabomb header and Q4 muffler
                  i have had a pro-circuit T4...too loud, even with the quiet insert, also had a Leo Vince X3, it worked well.

                  Suspension
                  i weigh 85kg.
                  i found the stock springs OK for trail riding, but it wallowed around low in the stroke when pushed hard.
                  *i have 5.4 rear and .45 fork springs and itholds up really well, i tried .47 fork springs, but found the front riding too high.
                  100mm rider sag, 27mm static.
                  even with the stiffer springs i found the stock valving blows through the stroke in whoops gouts etc.
                  *G2R valves fixed the blowing through the stroke, set up with help from dwb79 SUSPENSION MATTERS.
                  also Dave will be doing some machining and a revalve of the shock and rebound seperation valve added...

                  Handling
                  *similar to Disco, Pro Taper 22mm triples
                  but i run my forks flush, i guess having 100mm sag means i don need to drop them.
                  never felt the need to try a dampener...might one day when i have a spare $500!

                  ergo's
                  *R tank
                  *i have a Guts racing tall seat foam that i have cut down to standard height, but left it so it is flat from the rear gaurd to the tank...i dont like the dip in the stock seat foam.
                  *I have fastway pegs...hated them in lowboy position, they kept catching in ruts etc. I am going to stick with the stock pegs for a little while on the new bike
                  *I have some renthal fatbars, and some "wyndham" pro tapers, but am going to try some different ones, i am still not 100% happy...the stock TAG bars are crap!

                  protection
                  *i have BB bashplate, Barkbusters and rad gaurds, but am going to go for the Acerbis plastic bash and KTM handgaurds.

                  other mods
                  *I have gone the full chop of my airbox....i found that it helps to spread the dirt across the whole filter, rather than clogging the top of the filter while the bottom is still clean.
                  *pink wire mod....i dunno how much diff this makes, but the price is right!
                  *Magura hydraulic clutch...still in the process of fitting this
                  *Wiring...i fitted the comp. harness last night and weighed the ADR loom with the indicators, taillight, key ignition etc. all on it and it is just over 1kg of crap!
                  *I have removed the coolant catch tank (.5kg)
                  *removed hot start and replaced it with a button, and re-routing/modifying the engine breathers to unclutter the frame.
                  *change the Honda kill/start buttons as they are massive bulky peices of shit
                  * i run 13/49 or 50 gearing....much less busy in 234 gears, holds a gear longer on corner exit. It still pulls 5th with no real problems
                  *I haver been using 110/100 tyres, but will be going back to 100/100 to get better response.
                  *I tried a solid rear disc, but found only slightly better pad life, but the disc is ridiculously heavy!
                  *i tried a Ballards light pull clutch, i liked it....if the magura hydro unit does not work out i will put it back on.
                  *Ballistic Evo2 4cell li-ion battery

                  long list, but i think that is about it....
                  I have found the 250X to be a top notch platform, needs some mods but it is so cheap to buy, and the mods are so cheap too


                  I really like this bike.....even with all these mods, it still comes in cheaper than a KTM or Berg...the volume and price of parts available form the US is awesome!
                  whether you think you can, or think you cant....
                  either way, you are probably right.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nawill View Post
                    ....if the magura hydro unit does not work out i will put it back on.
                    I have a Magura clutch on mine and am happy with it. Always smooth and never needs adjusting. Lever force is about the same. I do need to pull it all the way in to fully disengage - which means occasionally stalling if I'm sloppy with it. It could be adjusted further out but that is a compromise I make. If I had smaller hands it might be an issue.

                    As supplied the hose on the slave cylinder is angled towards the right of the bike, to follow the original clutch cable routing near the exhaust pipe. On TT there are some war stories about melted Magura clutch lines. I loosened the banjo bolt a little and turned it the other way and routed the hose on the left side of the bike well away from the exhaust.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dedicated Yam man for some unknown reason, I got the Honda at the Yack bash auction after some drinking and cause it was there. Didn't spend as much at this year's auction. Previous ride on an earlier 250X was o.k. but had found cramped, not found this on the 09 model, with a 2010 build date. Still have the WR450 07, but finding I am picking the 250X more and more when going for a ride.

                      [HANDLING]

                      *Stock everything. Works fine for me.

                      *Rear axle positioning - not quite where it needs to be as chain is floggin' around a bit at the moment.

                      *Forks 5mm above triples. First ride was level and did not like the feel of the front end. Might drop it a bit more.

                      [ERGONOMICS]

                      *X Tank (came with it, but looking to put a bigger tank on, hate putting 2L of fuel in the backpack each ride). 132km to dry in the high country.
                      *Standard pegs but want to get Fastway pegs, in low boy position (stock are very small).

                      *Stock TAG Handlebars (I don't know better).

                      *Rad sticker kit that does nothing for the ergo's.

                      [SUSPENSION]

                      *Stock valving. Stock springs. Really should check sag and stuff soon. Needs a seal on one of the fronts from a nick on the tube. Sanded to the nick out.

                      [ENGINE]

                      * Been good so far. 40hrs on stock valves.

                      * Soon to fit 08R head with Kibblewhite SS valves and 08R cam, with Athena 280.

                      [EXHAUST]

                      *PC 496, it sounds too loud to me.

                      [JETTING AND AIRBOX]

                      *Whatever was in it when I got it.

                      *Air box - cut out, I know this as there was a bit of black rubber in the spares box.

                      *Twin Air filter. Sometimes use the stock filter when I get lazy cleaning the twin air.

                      [CLUTCH]

                      *Stock and like new after 1200kms or so.

                      [TYRES]

                      *FRONT: Going with a Kenda something, got it cheap
                      *REAR : Putting on a Pirelli, that was cheap too.

                      Have waited a year to wear out the MC5, they were o.k. tyres but never really gelled with em.

                      [ELECTRICAL]

                      * Still all the stock ADR stuff. HI/Lo swith broke off real quick. The rear indicators are still there and took the front off. Not sure which headlight I am using as I can't tell them apart. May be going on to full reg soon so not stripping out the ADR gear.

                      [PROTECTION]

                      *Force full bashy and rad gaurds. Going to stay with these.

                      *Stock bark busters. I use them a lot it seems, need new plastics.

                      [DRIVE AND BRAKES]

                      *Primary drive Renthal rear at 51T, going to try a 48 alloy once the 280 is on. Haven't counted what is on the front. Ran with the 53T stock for a few rides but found it lifted the front too easy on steeper hill climbs.

                      *Stock rotors.

                      *Radiator overflow is left in place. Still has some green colour in it.

                      NOTES :

                      My bike has some extra bling bits that were on it when I got it. I like it as it looks different to the standard ones or the HRC colours. It's great to ride and I may get rid of the 450 soon.

                      General trail riding, medium speed on range of tracks. Whoops smash me, but the bike is fine.
                      It's all about the vibe.

                      Current Vibes WR450F, XJR1300, IT200, IT175, CRF250X, TRX850
                      Past Vibes WR426, DRZ400, IT200, R1, XJ750, TS250

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by cowpat View Post
                        I have a Magura clutch on mine and am happy with it. Always smooth and never needs adjusting. Lever force is about the same. I do need to pull it all the way in to fully disengage - which means occasionally stalling if I'm sloppy with it. It could be adjusted further out but that is a compromise I make. If I had smaller hands it might be an issue.

                        As supplied the hose on the slave cylinder is angled towards the right of the bike, to follow the original clutch cable routing near the exhaust pipe. On TT there are some war stories about melted Magura clutch lines. I loosened the banjo bolt a little and turned it the other way and routed the hose on the left side of the bike well away from the exhaust.
                        the hydro clutch i have is from an 09 450R (a mate gave it to me for nix, i just have to replace the line..)...it has a different ratio to the 250X one...might be better, might not. the line will arrive this week
                        It has no provision for the hot start lever on the master, so i am trying to find options for an old style hot start button on the carb, but not having much luck...
                        whether you think you can, or think you cant....
                        either way, you are probably right.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I wouldn't claim mine's the ultimate but here goes...

                          [HANDLING]
                          *Triples - 22mm BRP CRF250R clamps, reused stock stem and bearing, homemade headlight mount adaptors
                          *Forks flush, sag 100 mm with current tyres; fork height and sag depend on tyres

                          [ERGONOMICS]
                          *R Tank - ebay wreckers, heat-gunned the R clamp to make it fit.
                          *Pro Taper 1 1/8 Universal Low bars raised 10 mm with longer bolts and washers, tried many bars and heights/positions.
                          *Bar mounts at forward position (which on BRP clamps is about 6 mm ahead of stock forward position)
                          *Pro Taper Pillowtop Lite grips mounted on old stripped ODI lock-on grip carcases, makes bar changing easy but needs two throttle-side grips

                          [SUSPENSION]
                          *Stock springs and valving. Forks 7R 15C, shock 8R 15C 7/6HC. 71 kg, about 84 kg with gear and full Camelbak, lunch, tools, spare tube etc. Haven't ridden anything that feels better yet (i.e. better and set up for my weight/skill level) so expect to leave it stock for a while.
                          *Pro Honda HP 5 wt fork oil. Tried Silkolene Pro RSF but the stiction on the inner cartridge was significantly increased.

                          [ENGINE]
                          *Wiseco 13.5 piston, didn't notice any significant power difference versus stock piston. Possibly more engine braking but I can't be sure.
                          *Xceldyne intake valves with CuBe seats, Xceldyne intake and exhaust springs. Stock exhaust valves, retainers and locks.
                          *05R cam, apparently the R cam with the most low-end power. Bike is a CA model and had a 0-degree overlap cam. R cam has made a huge difference to the bike, although perhaps any decent cam would have. Lost some low-end but much better overall now.
                          *Large RC fuel filter on gearbox breather to keep out dust

                          [EXHAUST]
                          *FMF Q4 with spark arrestor. Standard header with heat shield. Joint between header and muffler relies on silicone to seal and is dodgy.

                          [JETTING AND AIRBOX]
                          *NCYQ needle at #3, 158 MJ, 40 PJ, R&D ALJ @1 1/8 turns out, Tusk FS @1 7/8 turns out. 13-15 km/litre depending on conditions. 155 MJ was next best, 42 PJ ok but felt a touch rich and ALJ had to be wound out and FS in a lot, 38 PJ was lean. Haven't tried other needles or clip positions as it feels ok.
                          *Air box cut out along molded line.
                          *NoToil air filters and oil.
                          *Mini RC fuel filters on all carburetor vent lines to keep out dust

                          [CLUTCH]
                          *Magura hydraulic. Never needs adjusting and always smooth action.

                          [TYRES]
                          *FRONT: M403 80/100 but preferred M203. Standard 1.5 mm tube saves 1 kg over 4 mm UHD, which I think is noticeable.
                          *REAR: D756 100/100 but preferred M204 and M404. Using Kenda Tuff 2.5 mm tube which saves 0.6 kg over UHD but I can't tell the difference.
                          *Both tyres 7.5 psi cold run at about 9 psi when warm.
                          *Speedo replacement spacer and all other wheel spacers replaced with ebay alloy cup-type similar to the Yamaha plastic/steel ones. Filled with marine grease.

                          [ELECTRICAL]
                          *Lithium-ion 8-cell battery from OMG ebay store
                          *Non-ADR CA import bike only has basic loom.
                          *Pink wire mod because everyone else does it.
                          *Combined rear brake/tail light and master cylinder switch for Rec Reg.
                          *Grip heaters.
                          *Filled rear of stock kill switch with silicone gasket goop to make it waterproof.

                          [PROTECTION]
                          *Force full bashy and rad guards.
                          *Bark Busters with triple clamp mounts.
                          *ProCarbon CF frame guards. Left one currently worn through. Adhesive-lined heavy-duty heatshrink on exposed sections of lower subframe is holding up well.
                          *Sidestand rubbed against swingarm until I bent it a bit more in the press.

                          [DRIVE AND BRAKES]
                          *Alloy rear sprocket, DID VT2 chain.
                          *Stock 14:53 gearing. Works good.
                          *TM chainguide, after the internal rubber got drawn in on the stock one a couple of times.
                          *Moved rear brake footpad back 15 mm on lever to fit my feet. Wish I could do the same for the shifter.
                          *Outboard rear brake pad wears faster than inboard pad in mud. Haven't figured out why yet.

                          I like it. It seems a good fit for me, the type of riding I do, and my skill level.

                          Never ridden real whoops so I've no idea about that.


                          Edit: Some changes here: http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...1&postcount=88

                          Plus suspension settings now - forks: 7R 14C (fresh oil) 7R 15C (old oil > about 25 hours); shock: 9R 19C 11/6 HC

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Just tried a few mods.

                            1./ Gearing - 13/53

                            Was doing alot of wheel spinniing around flat turns and mono'ing out of my grass track turns.. felt like a compelte hoon. First too busy as you'd expect for normal riding, but made the trials type work more fun. 2nd is a little busy. Top wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Going to go to 52 on the rear in the hope of keeping the wheel spin and mono ability with a fraction less busy 2nd and top.. shame they didn't have 51 in stock. Top as I suspected became far more useable as an aggressive acceleraton gear, and still 20kay higher top speed than 4th was on 14/53. 13/52 will leave unstrained cruising speed at about 4 kay lower (76km/h).

                            2./ Dropped 1kg from rear wheel and added MX non o-ring chain.

                            UHD > HD and dropped extra rimock and put on drilled rotor : Seemed to make the bike more snappy when blipping the throttle, also made rear end feel alot easier to throw around and pivot on. Easier to wheel around the garage

                            3./ Dropped 800grams from front wheel. (have changed spacer yet).

                            UHD > HD and dropped extra rimlock : This one didn't seem to work so well for me. The removal of the gyro's from the front wheel seemed to make it a little busy over rocks and undulation hinting that it was a bit too eager to change direction... but at the same time don't think it really helped me turn. Also seemed to make suspension harsher even though it was only set at 9psi. I think that X spacer is worth about 300grams, you wanna weigh it willis?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Disco View Post
                              The removal of the gyro's from the front wheel seemed to make it a little busy over rocks and undulation hinting that it was a bit too eager to change direction... but at the same time don't think it really helped me turn.
                              Yes it did seem to make it less stable in the rough stuff, but I did think it helped with changing turn radius quickly in the tight stuff. I actually noticed the change in behaviour before I realised it was due to the lost weight.

                              I guess you could try adding extra weight to see if that makes it better or worse. UHD tubes could be the ideal compromise between stability and manoeuvrability for you, or just what you're used to?

                              Comment

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