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  • CRF450X Ultimate setups

    In the tradition of Disco's thread I thought we could have one for the 450x.. I haven't done any mods to mine yet. I'm currently looking into the jetting, airbox mods and exhaust etc.. I thought this thread could benefit all new owners and people looking to get the most out of their 450X

    [HANDLING]

    [ERGONOMICS]

    [SUSPENSION]

    [ENGINE]

    [EXHAUST]

    [JETTING AND AIRBOX]

    [CLUTCH]

    [TYRES]

    [ELECTRICAL]

    [PROTECTION]

    [DRIVE AND BRAKES]
    CRF 450x

  • #2
    Originally posted by rideo
    Good idea, i've been wanting to do a '12 mths living with the 450x' since before someone else did one recently for some other species of bike.
    I will come back later after i collect my thoughts on it and edit this post.

    Before i go though, anyone else have an issue with tearing off side knobs from the rear tyre with the chain?
    The 450x setup guide is a good idea.
    I would be keen to see that.

    No.

    I'm running a normal (not thin) chain too.

    I do have a small amount of rubbing on the shock guard.
    FOR SALE
    Coise's 2008 CRF230f Great Condition. With rec reg
    $3700 ono

    Rides

    2000 XR400R
    2010 CRF450X
    1976 Wife :kk

    Comment


    • #3
      I rip knobs off, and shock flaps, GHR cut the flaps and knobs as far as I know. I run Bridgy 404s, so I don't know how wider tyres fair. Dunno what it is.

      I have a whole spreadsheet of things I have done, gotta work out how to copy and paste it into here.
      2018 Beta 300RR Racing

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Pigdog View Post
        I rip knobs off, and shock flaps
        Current Bikes
        2010 KX250F, 2004 EC250

        Past Bikes
        1999 RMX250, 1983 KX125, 1985 XR250

        Comment


        • #5
          In no particular order here are most of the 'issues' i have had to deal with in the last 15 mths and 4000kms, if the OP feels this isn't in the right format for this thread let me know and i will piss it off into its own thread:

          Bike was purchased at 500kms old with a lot of mods already done
          Mods:
          Procircuit T4 muffler
          Fatbars
          Some fancy levers
          Fork bleeders
          3.2 gn IMS tank
          Pivot pegs
          Seat tug strap
          Chain/tyre guard
          Airbox modded, presumably carb rejetted
          BB's rad guards all the usual shit for protection
          Resprung to suit 115kg of me+ gear
          MSR rear disc guard


          Swingarm slider had to be replaced at 900?kms, it had worn thru underneath and the chain had cut thru until it reached the casing inside the needle bearings, previous owner did a lot of mx with it so i presume it was from a heap of bottoming out consistently at the Canberra mx track as the replacement one is showing minimal wear since fitted

          Rear shock guard didn't last much more than 1500kms, the new red one is doing well thanks to the chain guard, only wear to it is from when i haven't had a guard in place.

          Springs [f&r] were uprated with Eibachs to suit my weight and has made it the best handling bike i've owned, despite its 140kg+ weight.

          Forks needed bushes at the last oil change at about 3300kms.

          The alloy bolts that hold the sidecovers on are phucking useless, piss them off before they round over and replace them with regular bolts.

          I've busted 2 rear spokes recently, rumor has it once they start to go they all go so i'm waiting on rmatv to notify me of more stock of the hd ss spokes they have for $60 per wheel. Strangely enough seeing as i bought 2 oem spokes as spares for the xmas break i haven't had any more break on me...

          The wiring loom is a pos that must've cost Honda Aust. about $6.75, as such it breaks real easily and can cost you a working speedo amongst other issues.

          Lower shock mount is a highly stressed unit that gets fug all grease from the factory, lube it regularly.

          Valves went sth at 2700kms, replaced with oem inc. piston.

          Chainset at same time as top end, replaced with another narrow chain, not liking this narrow concept adjusting it near every ride is piss poor imo. [chain etc is all good quality]

          As mentioned the chain tears knobs off the side of the tyre [usually a 110-100-18, 120 is worse], it flogs the chain out and obviously fks the tyre.
          I'm now using Mk3 of a fix i designed, nutserts have been fitted to the swingarm for some decent thread and unit is now also siliconed in place, i have 100% confidence in this now
          450X chain guard pics 012.jpg

          450X chain guard pics 013.jpg

          450X chain guard pics 014.jpg

          450X chain guard pics 015.jpg

          This tyre^^^ has been on since my 3 day Dargo ride back late last year, the guard i had on then got torn off on day one and the tyre copped it, since then i have modded some things to fix it once and for all.
          Reckon i've got a few more rides in that tyre yet, if ya aint sliding ya aint having enough fun.


          Rear guard extension...i had to re-route the wiring to this carefully to stop the rear tyre from continually tearing it apart when bottomed out, not a biggie but it had to be done to preserve the rear tail light functionality.

          Front brake adr banjo fitting: this thing points the wiring back towards your knee, as such it can get torn out/the wires can bust, there's no real fix [besides removal] apart from careful positioning and being careful not to hit it with ya knee [i'm 6'3'' so have gangly legs]

          Airfilter removal/install: it's a bitch and there's no mod afaik, only thing i've found that helps a lot is to remove the seat to give more access.

          Rear disc guard didn't last long before it and one of the mount tabs disappeared [i actually found it on a later ride] so i have replaced it with an axle mounted MSR guard from rmatv, i have also hand made an alloy caliper guard to the same shape as the plastic oem unit.

          Even if you don't run a chain guard like me, it pays to silicone over the head of the rear chain slider mounting bolt as the chain flogs it to death and that makes removal very hard if you can't get an allen key into it [the silicone tears out easily enough when you need it to]

          Not a huge amount of issues by any stretch of the imagination, this is a great bike that goes well/handles well and would be a keeper for life if it had a 6th cog and didn't weigh something like a DRZ650 as i find it tiring in tight s/t.

          I will add more as i remember it.

          Another thing, the small bolt out of the 2 that hold the l/h footpeg mount to the bike went for a walk, it would pay to locktite the pair of them.
          Last edited by rideo; 21-01-2012, 06:54 PM. Reason: added already
          Eat sleep ride repeat.

          Comment


          • #6
            What I run

            Bike - Year 2008, purchased new Jul 2008 current Km 11900 (minimal black stuff), Full rego. Mainly ridden in NE Vic / Vic high country, regularly done multi day rides of 1000km plus.


            HANDLING - After the XR, chalk and cheese very happy. Have not played with the steering dampener still at factory setting.

            ERGONOMICS - Have rotated the bars forward slightly to open up the bike when standing and removed all of the stuff that would get ripped off in the bush. Other stuff I?ve done that doesn?t fit else where. As the bike had such a small tank and I ride the high country regularly I have fitted a 21 lt Safari Tank, it looks huge but I rarely fill it. I generally only put 10 ? 12 lts in it, after 10 minutes you don?t know its there. Also run Pivot Pegz Mk II. These are great.

            SUSPENSION - Front heavier springs (Eiback 0.48) 5 wt oil in cartridges and 10 wt oil 375 mls, in the outer legs, I run the forks 6 ml high in the triple clamps. I found that this settled down some head shake I had. Rear standard with standard sag setting.

            ENGINE - replaced L/H inlet valve at 3543 km, Head sent to Wideline Engineering for Stainless valve kit at 5308 km, New Wiseco piston and rings at 8862 km to freshen up. Ring gap was still within specks and the bore was in good condition. 11500 km valve gap still within specs.

            EXHAUST - Pro Circuit 496 muffler with modified outlet tip. Was sound tested at 98 Db so I modified the outlet, it is now (have had it sound tested by DSE) under 91 DB

            JETTING AND AIRBOX - Main Jet # 162 and Idle # 45, air box it's a bucket, no top. Run 3 air cleaners 1 x standard, 2 x twin air change after each ride.

            CLUTCH - standard

            TYRES - Fronts have use Dunlop 956?s and Geomax MX 51?s and Kenda Washoogals, no major issues with any. Rear have used Recross retreads (intermediate) Dunlop Geomax MX 51?s and 71?s and Kenda Carlsbad and Washoogal, no issues with any. although I mainly ride NE Vic (high country) which is generally fairly hard on tyres, the Yack Charity bash is the greasiest it gets and a new tyres generally get you through.

            ELECTRICAL - Still run indicators and their still on the bike run mini rears and fronts, have modified the wiring loom under the rear guard with 5 core trailer wire, haven't had a broken wire since done.

            Pink Wire mod, not sure what it does but I think it makes a differance.

            PROTECTION - Whipps bash plate, my own rear disk protector, Force radiator guards part of the tank upgrade, Bark Busters standard.

            DRIVE AND BRAKES - 13T front ? 49T rear standard narrow chain. Have some wear on the rear spring guard but don?t seem to damage tyres. Run T.M designworks chain slider and guide. Braided front brake line (manufactured locally for $ 80), disks rear standard, Front oversized disk, this is a mod that should be done what a differance.

            Improvements - would love a 6 speed box, Fuel injection? Still waiting! Weight a little lighter in the tight stuff would be good

            Over all - would I have another YES. Very happy with this bike and will buy another. Waiting on Fuel injection but thinking when it does, a current run out would be good value with the spares I have.
            Last edited by Al.C; 02-04-2012, 08:58 PM.

            Comment


            • #7
              CBF'd doing much to my bikes, just the basics and ride, then change over every 2-3 years.

              3rd 450X 1n 5 years 2007 = 9000k's, 2008 = 6000k's, now 2010 model = 1000k's, never had to do any kind of engine work.

              Airbox stock - I don't believe cutting it open and exposing it to more dust will make much difference and it certainly won't make me any faster.

              Run valve saver in fuel

              Bash plate, rad guards and alloy rear disk guard

              Braided front brake line

              Scotts steering damper - HPSD removed

              Fast boy fender bag

              Soon to replace 2010 tail light setup as I keep snapping no. plates off.
              Molly guards my toys!

              2012 'Berg 300

              1982 CR250RC PROJECT (wefixulongtime)


              ArielMCC

              Whenever I try to make something idiot proof - Along comes a smarter idiot!

              Comment


              • #8
                COMPLETLEY STOCK mine is. Bought new in 08 , only 3,500k's on it.

                Sorry to jack but i have a question!

                My rear blinkers and brake light dont work due to (i suspect) some wiring that has been rubbed the wrong way where the seat bolts fasten and the wiring needs to be re-placed. My question is, is it as 'simple' as buying some new electical wire from ?(place supplier of choice here) and replacing the wire thats gone wrong? is there a more heavy duty wire that is better suited so this doesnt happen again.......im full regoed and just sold my 4WD ute so would like to use my fully awesome bike to get to work with so need flashy light things to keep the 5-O away.
                08 CR-F 450X

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Booway View Post
                  COMPLETLEY STOCK mine is. Bought new in 08 , only 3,500k's on it.

                  Sorry to jack but i have a question!

                  My rear blinkers and brake light dont work due to (i suspect) some wiring that has been rubbed the wrong way where the seat bolts fasten and the wiring needs to be re-placed. My question is, is it as 'simple' as buying some new electical wire from ?(place supplier of choice here) and replacing the wire thats gone wrong? is there a more heavy duty wire that is better suited so this doesnt happen again.......im full regoed and just sold my 4WD ute so would like to use my fully awesome bike to get to work with so need flashy light things to keep the 5-O away.
                  If you can see the damaged wires, theres no reason you can't repair or replace them, just join and insulate the connections in a reliable fashion.
                  I use insulated crimp links and heat shrink.
                  Molly guards my toys!

                  2012 'Berg 300

                  1982 CR250RC PROJECT (wefixulongtime)


                  ArielMCC

                  Whenever I try to make something idiot proof - Along comes a smarter idiot!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Forgot another issue.
                    The rear guard, it ends up rattling about as the mounts wear with use because the guard bounces around on every hit, the fix is to cut some flat washers out of an old tube and put 'em where needed.
                    Where they are needed is 'in there', if you have this problem you will work out where they need to go.
                    The rubber absorbs all future hits so is a fairly permanent solution, if not ... i'm sure you could cut a lifetimes supply out of less than one whole tube.
                    Eat sleep ride repeat.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      07 X
                      [HANDLING] MSC steering damper (serviced when forks get serviced)

                      [ERGONOMICS] Wide alloy pegs, Easton taper bars, Bent radiators & shrouds

                      [SUSPENSION] Revalved forks & shock by PMS, stock springs, fork bleeders

                      [ENGINE] Stainless valves by Wideline

                      [EXHAUST] Modded Stocker

                      [JETTING AND AIRBOX] Twin air filter

                      [CLUTCH] Stocker

                      [TYRES] Bridgies 403 & 404

                      [ELECTRICAL] Some removed & stealthy looking headlight

                      [PROTECTION] Acerbis bash plate, Bark busters, case protector

                      [DRIVE AND BRAKES] 14-49 & X ring chain, Ebay brake pads & oversized front rotor

                      Change oil & filters regularly & service forks couple times a year. Gets a full wash after each outing & a full plastics strip down every 3 or 4 rides unless its been really muddy. Other than that just get on it & ride.
                      dirtboy"]05 KTM 300 & 14 WRF450/COLOR]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        2008 450X

                        Handling-Stock

                        Ergo's- Tag Bars, Safari Tank(14L for the longer rides)

                        Suspension- Stock

                        Engine- Stock

                        Exhaust- Lexx

                        Jetting and Airbox- Twin Air Filter

                        Clutch- Stock

                        Tyres- Dunlop MX 51

                        Electrical- Stock; some removed( Indicators etc.)

                        Protection- B&B Bash Plate, Brake smake, Barkbusters, Zeta case saver, Fork bleeders, seal savers,

                        Drive and Brakes- 14-51, Wave disk on 19Inch rim( Stupidly forgot to tighten spokes on original rim, found a 19" on Ebay to get me by)

                        As I bought this bike second hand a few years back(with 390K's on the clock), I don't know whether the throttle stop screw has been removed. I have folowed the guide that is supplied, lifting the subframe for access, but where is it????

                        After jumping on a mates 09 450EXC, a couple of things became immediately apparent. Now, as I have had multiple KTM's prior to this bike, I was thinking I was pretty keen to buy another one. Not anymore.

                        Yes, my bike feels noticeably heavier even before you sit on the KTM, when in motion it's not very obvious. The suspension on the Honda, for me feels brilliant until pushed to hard at high speed, which I will get rectified. The KTM felt so hard through the suspension and the seat that I really don't know how I put up with it on my previous bikes.

                        Power wise, the Honda also .thrills me far more than the Kato

                        Anywho, enough rambling, my question to the ones that know out there is, what is the best way to shed the kilos?

                        On the Honda that is...

                        So far, the muffler has been changed to a Lexx, which is a reasonable saving, now I am thinking of drilling holes in the bash plate(or buying a plastic one???), changing the barkbusters to a handguard.

                        The speedo doesn't work so i may as well fugg that off.

                        What else can I do??

                        2014 300EXC 6Day

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          2011 450x

                          1. Full JCR team Honda porting and engine work including 450r carb, head, valves, cam etc, air box cut to Honda ccc team advice letter. Good for about 57hp

                          2. Full pro circuit ti4 jcr gp race pipe with a *@#&*@#&*@#&*@#& the dse sticker on it. (dfse are c-smokers)

                          3. Scott's stabilizer

                          4. Ims tank

                          5. D606 tyres

                          6. 15/48 gearing

                          7. Garmin 401 with jcr mount.

                          8. Mckenzie motorsports weld on twin hid Baja designs light mount.

                          9. Baja designs rewound stator.

                          10. 1x team graphics and 1x rego...

                          11. 450r front master cylinder.

                          12. Pro circuit jcr team suspension.



                          This shows the special radiator/oil cooler i bought



                          Next is some haan dampened wheels
                          Last edited by Carbon; 25-01-2012, 12:33 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            [HANDLING] - Adjusted stock HPSD to full tight. Considering aftermarket steering dampener

                            [ERGONOMICS] - Acerbis 15.5L tank, with replica factory sticker kit

                            [SUSPENSION] - Just had clickers and sag set by local suspension joint (Hoey's)

                            [ENGINE] - Stock, will upgrade piston and valves later in the year

                            [EXHAUST] - Lexx with enduro tip

                            [JETTING AND AIRBOX] - 168 main jet, adjustable fuel screw, opened airbox, No-Toil Superflo kit.

                            [CLUTCH] - Standard, will upgrade to a light pull clutch cable

                            [TYRES] - Michelin Comp IV front, Michelin AC10 rear

                            [ELECTRICAL] - Pink wire mod

                            [PROTECTION] - Bashplate, Case Saver, Barkbusters. Want to upgrade first 2 to Force.

                            [DRIVE AND BRAKES] - 14 tooth front, stock rear... This is a neccesity, standard gearing is no good with the 5 speed.







                            This is with old tyres and bash plate not fitted (took off to clean)

                            2010 Honda CRF450X

                            FOR SALE http://www.bikesales.com.au/private/...d=13B1F90B7BEE

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Motoholic View Post
                              2008 450X

                              Handling-Stock

                              Ergo's- Tag Bars, Safari Tank(14L for the longer rides)

                              Suspension- Stock

                              Engine- Stock

                              Exhaust- Lexx

                              Jetting and Airbox- Twin Air Filter

                              Clutch- Stock

                              Tyres- Dunlop MX 51

                              Electrical- Stock; some removed( Indicators etc.)

                              Protection- B&B Bash Plate, Brake smake, Barkbusters, Zeta case saver, Fork bleeders, seal savers,

                              Drive and Brakes- 14-51, Wave disk on 19Inch rim( Stupidly forgot to tighten spokes on original rim, found a 19" on Ebay to get me by)

                              As I bought this bike second hand a few years back(with 390K's on the clock), I don't know whether the throttle stop screw has been removed. I have folowed the guide that is supplied, lifting the subframe for access, but where is it????
                              I thought it was a bit of plastic inside the throttle housing? not real sure as mine had been opened up for more funs when i go it.

                              After jumping on a mates 09 450EXC, a couple of things became immediately apparent. Now, as I have had multiple KTM's prior to this bike, I was thinking I was pretty keen to buy another one. Not anymore.

                              Yes, my bike feels noticeably heavier even before you sit on the KTM, when in motion it's not very obvious. The suspension on the Honda, for me feels brilliant until pushed to hard at high speed, which I will get rectified. The KTM felt so hard through the suspension and the seat that I really don't know how I put up with it on my previous bikes.

                              Power wise, the Honda also .thrills me far more than the Kato
                              Seeing a mate pull away from me like i was sitting still makes me wonder about that, he was on an 09 or 10 450exc.

                              Anywho, enough rambling, my question to the ones that know out there is, what is the best way to shed the kilos?

                              On the Honda that is...

                              So far, the muffler has been changed to a Lexx, which is a reasonable saving, now I am thinking of drilling holes in the bash plate(or buying a plastic one???), changing the barkbusters to a handguard.

                              The speedo doesn't work so i may as well fugg that off.

                              What else can I do??
                              Go the gym more often.
                              I see no vaild way to magically lose 30 kgs, even 10 is a near impossible ask imo unless you are factory sponsored.

                              ...
                              Eat sleep ride repeat.

                              Comment

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