drz400e

[Trueblue]

Have just picked up a 2018 drz400

Just asking what updates / Mods recommended

be mostly normal trail riding with a bit of adventure here & there

[Danh124]

Personally I would go for a bash plate and radiator guards before I did anything else.

Enjoy the new bike mate.

[fetid_swamp]

yep as dan says
plus handguards, the case covers to sikaflex on & maybe chain-case saver.

put some cash away for some decent bars when you bend the stds - research your preferred height n bends.
run it in with the std tyres, then ditch them for something that best syits your riding.

also ask around for local suspension experts as they can be made so much better with someone actually who knows what they are doing.
take everything off it that it dosent need incl clutch & stand cutout.

easy weight savings come from replacing taillight assembly, headlight & speedo etc with small enduro items.
then depending on how much you want to spend, large weight savings with a lithuim battery and full ss exhaust system like a fmf Q or similar - keep it quiet, dont just take out the baffle as they make a heap of noise and noise sucks.

[DV8]

G'day Bob,
Did you buy it new?
If so the dealers usually throw in Bash plate, radiator guards and bark Busters, well they did for the last couple that I bought. Those things are essential.
Take off the chain guard before it gets broken. Also the plastic cover over the front sprocket but keep the case saver. You'll need to replace the 50mm M6 bolts with 35mm M6 bolts to keep the case saver in place.
I take off the rear guard extender, tail light and indicators as well and replace them with cheap LED indicators and taillight (ebay) Buy some spares while you're there)
A bit of fabrication is needed to mount them and the number plate.
Disable the sidestand switch. The easiest way is to put a zip tie around it to hold the switch closed and a couple more to hold that one in place. Easy to put back to normal if necessary.
Case protectors too. You can get cheap ones on ebay, they've certainly saved my arse.
I fit a kickstarter because I do a lot of remote and solo riding. That only needs to save you once to be worth it. (and it has)
I have a Trailtech speedo but I see no real need to take the OEM one off to save a few grams of weight on what is already a heavy bike ( but solid)
Maybe the lightweight freaks didn't grow up in the days of DR600's and TT600's
Ride it and enjoy.

[Trueblue]

Yes Don

A new one and it came with the Enduro pack

thanks guys for the suggestions will work on it slowly

havent had a Suzuki since the PE175N new

[Oldscool]

Yes Don

A new one and it came with the Enduro pack

thanks guys for the suggestions will work on it slowly

havent had a Suzuki since the PE175N new

i had one of them back in 1981, was my first full size bike. You always remember your first
Congratulations on your new bike mate.....a great choice.

[DV8]

The Exhaust end that came with the enduro pack is the go if it isn't already fitted. It's a lot less restricted than the standard one. It's a bit louder but still within the law.

[Trueblue]

tried to adjust gear lever up but still cant get boot under

if there an after market lever with more length ?

[mickd]

Clutch switch.side stand.air vent from carb up into/ near airfilter. smooth/grind gear lever & rear brake lever.case savers.high bars

[Nutty]

The Exhaust end that came with the enduro pack is the go if it isn't already fitted. It's a lot less restricted than the standard one. It's a bit louder but still within the law.

Nope, any mod to an exhaust breaches the ADRs. Whilst the bike won't be illegal with respect to noise output, a cluey Cop can still defect it because it's not in emissions compliance with any mod between intake and final exhaust. Thank heavens that's not enforced, every muffler shop would have to close overnight.

[Pygmygod]

True that.
Each new muffler would need to be sound tested to the relevant Aus Standard methodology and certified to meet the ADRs.

[hairyone]

quote=Trueblue 'tried to adjust gear lever up but still cant get boot under'
If you're about replacing it anyways & won't miss a $10 sale on Gumtree.

Try & bash/crush or otherwise compress the tube/cylinder on the lever's end.
Edit: Or if it's a solid-rod (I highly doubt it is)... Basically grind-off it's lower bit.

Edit2: I'm fussy re. the levers on my bike; see my posts less Photobuck' pics:
http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...90&postcount=7
http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...90&postcount=6
http://www.dirtbikeworld.net/forum/s...84&postcount=7

[Dance Commander]

Necropost!

Looking back at old threads there was a user named 'Cliveybaby' who reckoned he could get the std exhaust performing better by drilling out the baffle that fits over the spark arrestor.

Most people were drilling out 4 of the existing holes to 6mm but this person was adding an additional row. The idea was to match the CS area of the more free-flowing aftermarket exhausts.

Did anybody else try this?

[hairyone]

Your post is ambiguous imo Dance Commander; we'd like you to elaborate.
I've modified some of my exhausts with some success; some 20 years ago.

These days imo; exhausts are quite efficient; benefit-likely comes at a cost.
Are you such-that rider where you've expended-depleted your bike's ability.

Maybe you are (I'm not saying your're not). Spend coin Akrapovič maybe.
By-far; the best gains I've had is-by matching Inlet-manifold to Head.

Edit: Match all the manifolds: That does/will include the exhaust too.
Power & clean/crisp running is efficiency: Sort it-out B4 big $$$ imo.

Edit2: I assume your bike is a DRZ400 & you love it; that's great/fine.
I've owned a 610 4T & 530 4T... Enough power is never enough imho.

Science is convoluted Dance Commander: I don't claim to be a Scientist.
It's all about efficiency: Which entails; gasses extraction... Via a vacuum.

I made a mistake; by shortening the muffler on my 430 2T... I lost power.
I kept actual 'power'... I lost power-torque in-revs where I'd sought more.

Edit3: Many 4T silencer/mufflers contain 2 pipes causing gas to S-bend:
Internally-shortening the rear-tube straightens gas-route & stays "quiet".