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  • Clickers are confusing

    Can someone shed some basic light on rebound and compression high and low speed adjustments for me. I had the suspension serviced recently. The springs are right for my weight. Just need to understand what does what.
    Had
    PW50 not sure of year ,73 GT80 ,84 YZ80 ,98 YZ250 ,04 YZ450f !psm LOved this bike Should have stayed blue but...
    05 KTM250sx Didn't like the 2t after the 4t
    No bike for 8 years ^frt
    Current Ride 06 WR450

  • #2
    I know SFA about suspension.
    Very basic, hs compression controls fast shock movements like square edges and logs, ls comp controls slower shock movements like undulations.
    Rebound controls how fast the shock tries to get back to it's normal state after being compressed.

    It's difficult to give a basic lesson in suspension adjustment, there is only so much you can do with clickers if the valving is not in the ball park and there are interactions that sometimes seem a little counter-intuitive when it comes to adjustment.

    In the past there have been a few links posted that had very good explanations of clicker adjustment and their effects, as well as examples of issues and the possible causes.

    Hopefully this thread will develop and contain some great info, if so I'll make it stick as a ready reference.
    Pete.
    '02 TL1000R.'04 450 EXC. '05 KX250F'16 200 EXC.

    Don't like a post or thread? Click on this icon in the top right of the post.

    The opposite of success isn't failure, it's 'giving up'.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thats a nice simple explanation Sav

      A few other things to note: HS and LS is in relation to actual shaft speeds. Not to be confused with how fast you are riding the bike.

      The clickers are simply oil bypasses/bleed circuits and work like taps. Opening them (counter clock wise) increases flow, while closing (clockwise) restricts flow.

      Moving on from that: More flow = softer/faster, where less is firmer/slower.

      As with most things, you'll learn the most by experimenting with how changes effect the handling, and by only making one change at a time (one circuit) you will have a greater understanding as opposed to making a load of changes and hoping for the best.

      Comment


      • #4
        Just one more thing when making changes, if you are just new to this go at least 4 clicks at a time so you can notice the difference and ride over the same track so you can tell the difference. You can always go back to where you started, but if only going 1 click at a time you will struggle to notice the changes. Be prepared to spend a day on it. Instead of going for a trail ride go and find yourself a 2 minute loop with the type of riding you will spend most if your time on and then just keep doing the same loop. Take notes as you go as well and you will really start to get the hang of the difference that the clickers make.

        Comment


        • #5
          Great thanks guys.
          The concept of the operation of the shocks is one thing. Then there is the different bikes and how each manufacturer sets theirs up.
          For Yamaha forks are the top clickers the rebound and bottom compression.
          For the shock is the top nut HS comp and the clicker LS comp. leaving the bottom clicker as rebound?
          Had
          PW50 not sure of year ,73 GT80 ,84 YZ80 ,98 YZ250 ,04 YZ450f !psm LOved this bike Should have stayed blue but...
          05 KTM250sx Didn't like the 2t after the 4t
          No bike for 8 years ^frt
          Current Ride 06 WR450

          Comment


          • #6
            Some info here

            http://www.teknikmotorsport.com.au/t...-setup-guides/
            05 WR450F 6300km Gone.......
            09 WR450F ....................
            07 WR450 13500km Spare Parts
            Australasian Safari 2011 Got a Finishers Medal

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Dunny78 View Post
              Great thanks guys.
              The concept of the operation of the shocks is one thing. Then there is the different bikes and how each manufacturer sets theirs up.
              For Yamaha forks are the top clickers the rebound and bottom compression.
              For the shock is the top nut HS comp and the clicker LS comp. leaving the bottom clicker as rebound?
              2006 WR450 owners manual HERE
              ~23mb pdf download.
              Pete.
              '02 TL1000R.'04 450 EXC. '05 KX250F'16 200 EXC.

              Don't like a post or thread? Click on this icon in the top right of the post.

              The opposite of success isn't failure, it's 'giving up'.

              Comment


              • #8
                There will always be differences based on design. Some shocks have LSC and LSR only, some also have a HSC adjustment. Ohlins TTX have LSC AND LSR at the top and a CSC (Chasis stability control) on the bottom.

                If unsure look up the documentation for the particular model/brand.

                With forks, generally a closed chamber/twin chamber fork will have compression at the top and rebound at bottom, and an open cartridge will have the opposite. Again, due to how they are internally designed.

                Comment


                • #9
                  From the pdf for the shock:
                  Note: the actual pdf is much clearer, these images have been downgraded to fit within u/l constraints.
                  Attached Files
                  Pete.
                  '02 TL1000R.'04 450 EXC. '05 KX250F'16 200 EXC.

                  Don't like a post or thread? Click on this icon in the top right of the post.

                  The opposite of success isn't failure, it's 'giving up'.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I was doing a ride day a long time ago at Darlington Park on my HuskyNox. Judd Greedy played around with my suspension after watching me and the next few laps it felt like I had 10 more HP. That there told me how important it is to be in the know on your suspension.

                    RIP Judd - a top bloke.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      http://www.enduroeng.com/storage/pdf...c23-LOWRES.pdf

                      Always a good guide and fairly easy to follow. You need to dedicate at least a day of testing your suspension. After this day of testing, I find it easy to work out what the clickers do, and what you may need for certain terrain.
                      2014 Husqvarna FE 450...The thinking man's Husaberg...:grinning-
                      2011 KTM 300
                      2009 KTM 300

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I find this link really useful in terms of dialling things in and fine tuning the balance as well

                        http://www.off-road.gr/article11.html

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Dunny78 View Post
                          Can someone shed some basic light on rebound and compression high and low speed adjustments for me. I had the suspension serviced recently. The springs are right for my weight. Just need to understand what does what.
                          +1 for everything previously said. Race Tech's Motorcycle Suspension Bible contains some nice pic's and some useful info on set-up's etc.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Great links, these are going to be printed out and taken with me next ride.. How important is the static sag measurement that is spoken about. I have my race sag already set so does the static sag have anything to do with this?
                            Had
                            PW50 not sure of year ,73 GT80 ,84 YZ80 ,98 YZ250 ,04 YZ450f !psm LOved this bike Should have stayed blue but...
                            05 KTM250sx Didn't like the 2t after the 4t
                            No bike for 8 years ^frt
                            Current Ride 06 WR450

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Dunny78 View Post
                              How important is the static sag measurement that is spoken about. I have my race sag already set so does the static sag have anything to do with this?
                              The rider sag is the most important one. Once the rider sag is set, you then measure the static sag to help determine if you have the correct spring fitted.

                              With your rider sag set to 100mm, the acceptable working range for static sag is 25mm-40mm, with 30-35mm being ideal.

                              Comment

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